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Here's the passenger step cubby after adding bedliner and four retaining straps, each with sewn-on cam buckle and a grommet bolted thru the back wall with galvanized 5/16" x 3/4" bolts. That's 20' of 3/8" binder chain plus the Hi Lift winching and tension adapters and their chains wrapped in a jute coffee sack, along with the 2" x 8' tree protector, gloves and instructions from the Hi Lift Off Road Kit.

The tire change box under the bunk is stuffed with the Humvee jack, Agile Offroad adapter, Ford tire iron, 12v air pump, three 3/4" shackles, a Hi Lift Lift Mate, 2" x 20' nylon tow strap, 3" x 15' Hi Lift tree protector, can of Fix-A-Flat, tire plug kit, valve stem and core replacements, gloves. I'm a bit amazed how much stuff fit.
 

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I forgot to post yesterday that I had achieved 60k miles. I expect powertrain to start falling apart any second now that it's out of warranty.
 

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Out with the old (Grape solar 180w 12v x2) and in with the new (Panasonic 335w 32v). That panasonic is fantastic from initial measurements, I watched it peak at 339w 62v yesterday in bright sun, 24a to the battery. I bought two and the plan was to install only one and test for a while, I was so impressed I went ahead and ordered longer rails for the roof so I can fit the second panel.


P.S. I have two 180w 12v Grape solar panels for sale in northern VA :D
 

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Yesterday I used my new Build Clean dust extractor to clean the fine dust out of my work van. It is a giant hepa filter with a prefilter on it that rapidly turns the air over within a confined space. I bought it for my construction business, most of my work is in occupied homes.

I have owned my Transit for two years and it was a bit dusty after hauling tools and material around.

I left the dust extractor inside for a couple hours, and it was a lot less cloudy on the way to work this morning! Haha


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I installed and wired 2 Grape Solar 180 watt panels on our van today. My wife built and installed a birch shelf above the bed for clothes storage.
 

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I think this is the first picture or build thing I've posted.

Here's my modified d-pillar vent cover solution. I'll probably snag some extra covers if I want to close them up.

Only done the driver side so far, waiting for my axle back exhaust to arrive before opening the passenger side. I expect it will look the same as this.

Ss 10-24 - ss fender - alu mesh - fiberglass screen - modded cover - ss fender - ss nylon lock washer

X 4

Going to seal the lower parts of the D pillar and install a blast gate up around the bed area (which doesn't exist yet)


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Hey BOS- this is the pillar rear-most, correct? And vented. And I'm missing something here; why? What am I missing here? Is this a fresh-air vent that feeds the interior and up/out the roof fan?
 

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Hey BOS- this is the pillar rear-most, correct? And vented. And I'm missing something here; why? What am I missing here? Is this a fresh-air vent that feeds the interior and up/out the roof fan?
Yes, at the back of the van on each side you can find one of these covers, they open into the space inside the d-pillar at the rear.

I mounted my maxxfan near the front of the vehicle and will use it in exhaust to pull air from the back to the front.

This has been done by other people, it's not a new idea, but I am specifically using the D pillars in this configuration to promote passive fresh air intake during the winter. This should reduce heat loss the most of any configuration since the intake vents are at the lowest point in the van.

One thing typically preventing this is the OEM exhaust shooting out right under the passenger d-pillar, I am solving this with an exhaust mod which I will install this weekend.

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Ahhh. What I did was put a small vent in the slider door (bottom/right) and did some 1.25" holes in the bottom of the door itself, which is outside the weatherstripping so it can permit air-flow. Used a small length of nylon screen to cover the holes to critter-proof. HD vent with louvers that can be regulated. Me, I got a full size bed platform across the back of my 130MR as I could not see not having a trunk so any D-pillar is way out of reach for me. Bed tilts up on gas-struts to access...stuff. Just a different approach to the same problem, eh?
 

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This post is mainly to say thank you to @orton for his meticulous parts list and good instructions on an OEM rear anti-sway bar. Thank you for making this an easy project.

Winds in Wyoming and Nebraska are the main reason for this. I have experience with higher rear sway bar rates reducing understeer and going on to oversteer in my very nose heavy Audi. That's fine for a track car but I really don't want oversteer in the Transit so I went with OEM. I'm not clear what the aftermarket bar rates are.

It's so nice to do a project on a non rusty car. I still used POR-15 over all the underbody components with surface rust.

The bolts from the end links to the body couldn't take much more than 15 ft-lbs before I noticed deformation.
 

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I started to take my front bumper off to replace my grill. That is until my neighbors decided to pour a metric crap-ton of gasoline into their fire pit 15 feet from where I was, on the other side of a fence. They apparently couldn't light a fire with the driest wood in the neighborhood. Kinda ruined my chill driveway session but I just attended to other stuff inside. I'll be back at it, bright and early, while they're nursing their hangovers.
 

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OK, what am I missing here? "take my front bumper off to replace my grill."?
This we must do in order to replace the grill? Pls explain.
 

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OK, what am I missing here? "take my front bumper off to replace my grill."?
This we must do in order to replace the grill? Pls explain.
There’s a way to get the grille off without taking the bumper off, but every attempt I’ve seen has resulted in a cracked grill. I’d like to sell the stock one so I didn’t want to break it if at all possible. I still tried, but after an hour I wasn’t comfortable with the amount of flex so I decided to remove the bumper.

It only took an hour and a half to do the whole thing after I decided to switch directions. That was with it being my first time taking it off, modifying the front plate bracket, and taking notes & pics to post about it later (I haven’t found much info about how to do it so I thought it’d be worth it).
 

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I like to make unnecessary work for myself since I apparently have too much time on my hands. OCD side effect of installing the sway bar. I saw all the surface rust and hit everything I could reach with POR-15.

See the before photo above. After photo below.
 

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I have an unopened quart from my Corvair days, I might have a go at it, too!
 

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Go for it. It'll impress mice? Squirrels? Really short people who can see your shiny black non rusty components? That customer base is important to me so I did it.

oh, I really started to do it because of the failing powder coat on the OEM hitch receiver. It seems whoever makes factory receivers use powder coat that fails in a few years on a lot of cars I've seen. My Subaru, friend's Acura.
 

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Go for it. It'll impress mice? Squirrels? Really short people who can see your shiny black non rusty components? That customer base is important to me so I did it.

oh, I really started to do it because of the failing powder coat on the OEM hitch receiver. It seems whoever makes factory receivers use powder coat that fails in a few years on a lot of cars I've seen. My Subaru, friend's Acura.
Sharing your photo's in this thread might be good for a Before and After.


https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/ford-transit-general-discussion/69458-any-new-transit-buyers-have-rust-issues-like-van-delivered-ca.html
 
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