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Let's get some traction back under this thread before it gets buried.



I insulated my rear side windows with Thinsulte and built walls over them a couple of weeks ago. This past weekend I ripped out the carpet and installed vinyl plank flooring. I'm just hoping I didn't suddenly make it slippery inside when shoes are wet or boots are muddy.

S- Is that DuraMax on your walls here, and if so, where did you source it?

What did you use as an adhesive?
 

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S- Is that DuraMax on your walls here, and if so, where did you source it?

What did you use as an adhesive?


I do not know what DuraMax is. The walls are covered in plywood with a Masonite skin and automotive speaker box carpet glued with 3M 90 contact adhesive.

I actually just got the airbag covers done today. They are open on the bottom to allow the airbags to deploy if needed.


 

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As I understand in the commercial van-build community, most of the interior fabric we see is DuraMax; that common 'grey' we see in nearly every build. This is that stuff. EZ to clean and gas-off friendly. I insulated my 130HR but did not put walls up so I have all the curves and whatnot to deal with and don't think speakerbox nor the HD in/outdoor carpet upon my floor will work well. Too durable being floor-intent; no give/stretch.
Anybody else out there go the DuraMax route?


https://www.nationalupholsterysupply.com/dmx001.html


Walls look great. Who is the source you used for this?
 

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That's what I'm really looking for; the ability to stretch to conform to the shape we have to deal with on the inside as I did an in-wall and/or surface insulation job to maximize the minimal area a 130HR has to offer vs what the larger choices do. Will look into. Thnx.
 

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First time poster. About 6 months into the build. What's left is ceiling, kitchen area, and flooring.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,807
I washed mine. I think that's the second time this calendar year. Took a half hour because of the extra road grease.
 

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As I understand in the commercial van-build community, most of the interior fabric we see is DuraMax; that common 'grey' we see in nearly every build.
It's sold under many names. It is a 100% Olefin product, which makes it ideal for van walls, floors, ceilings. etc.

It's also sold as Marathon Fabric, DuraTex, Rock n Roll Tweed and a host of others.

You can source it in Canada as well, where its called "Finch"


.
 

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I didn't do anything with mine because it won't start. Just cranks. It's been happening every morning ever since I blew fuses while wiring in trailer lights. Great van and I want it to get back to normal.
 

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I didn't do anything with mine because it won't start. Just cranks. It's been happening every morning ever since I blew fuses while wiring in trailer lights. Great van and I want it to get back to normal.

Did you try disconnecting the wires for the trailer lights and replace the blown fuses to see if it will start again? Is it possible you missed a blown fuse?
 

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I installed my VanCompass bumper! It's a well made product!! I pulled an audible on the winch access and instead of opening up a fat ugly hole, I put my license plate on a spring loaded plate holder and built a bracket to support it behind the bumper. Works well!
 

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Replaced Rear Brake Pads

From reading this forum, the brakes were one of the first things I checked when I returned home with my 2015 HR, EXT 350. Rear brakes are shot at 22,500 miles and I have the reversed caliper brackets! "Loaned" a caliper compression tool from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Said they had the kit with both the left and right hand compression tools but when I got there the kit only had the right hand tool:mad: . Tool worked fine on the driver side caliper and with some difficulty, was able to get the passenger side compressed. Switched the caliper brackets to their correct locations, added the new Powerstop Evolution ceramic pads and they work fine:).....for now. Will see how long they last!
 

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Made a filler for the slider step.

I needed to keep the drawer base from falling out when I open the sliding door. I
used a light weight hollow post sleeve for home depot. It's the same height of the step 3 7/8".
it just lays in the well. Easy to remove when needed.
 

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Showed off the Travlin' Van to an old friend who arrived in a tall/extended Sprinter to buy my '04 KTM 950 Adventure motorcycle. He had lots of questions about the choices for conversion he saw in mine, and he hopes to get going on his own conversion once he gets his son packed off to college.

We talked at length about vans and diesel vs gas, how to tackle different challenges and all that. He mentioned how he has been advised by a dealer mechanic to rip out the DEF system once the 100K warranty mark is reached. His is a pretty much stock passenger van with the back seat removed.

This all helped me realize just how happy I am with the EcoBeast, and with my van project overall. :D
 

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I installed black leather, heated and powered front seats (stock from a 2018) into my 2015 350 XLT wagon. The wires for the power seats were already in the harness on the van side :)
I will need to run the wiring for the heated portion but I have a few months before that is needed.

Now I have a full black leather interior which really cleans up the look of the van (the rear seats are black SmartSeats by AMF Bruns). Also, the passenger seat in my van did not have an airbag (it had been replaced with a non-airbag seat before I purchased the van) so it's good to have that safety feature again.

The attached picture shows just the new passenger seat.
 

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I removed the foam insert in the tire-change-tool compartment under the passenger seat. Unscrewed the three 10mm bolts in the step, pried up the front edge of the step trim, pulled it back a ways and wiggled out the foam without breaking it. Another OEM part for storage.

I've substituted a HMMVV 3.5 ton scissor jack for the Ford hydraulic jack, so no longer need to carry around the roll of handle sections. The tire iron is now wrapped up in the HumVee canvas jack carrier. That jack, an Agile Offroad adapter, Hi Lift Lift Mate, 12V pump, 20' tow strap, can of Fix-A-Flat, tire plug kit and gloves all fit in the 8x8x24 hinged wiring box I anchored to L-track on the wall.

The storage volume obtained is 24" long x 7-1/2" high x 5" deep. It looks like it will accommodate my Hi Lift off road winching kit, 20-foot binder chain and some shackles if I pack the chains in a long skinny bag. I'll put two or three strap anchors on the back wall to help hold it all in place.
 

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I should have taken a few pics of the dirt road I drove up today to give people an idea of what plain old 2wd (with limited slip) can traverse.
Some sections were 20+ degrees for 50' or more, with a 2' deep gully washed out of the middle that needed to be straddled. And of course a big rock in the track on one side half way up...
I did have to back up and "get a run" at one section because my nearly bald tires were spinning in the loose stuff at the base of the big half buried rock, even with traction control turned off. Other than that, I was able to just idle up over the ruts, roots, rocks, wash-outs, water bars, etc. The 1' deep stream crossing down lower was easy.

Bell Meadow, CA
 

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Proof of concept. With foam removed, the passenger step compartment accommodated a 20-foot 3/8" binder chain, three 3/4" shackles and both the winching and tension adapters of the Hi Lift off road kit complete with their chain and hooks. There's room to spare. For now, some sticks of 1/4" plywood set behind the opening help retain the chain. A bag and some straps fastened to the back wall will improve the stowage.
 

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I think I'd use store-bought bedliner spray to coat the inside of that, and I will.

(the Duplicolor stuff is actually pretty good, I used it on my Corvair Rampside)
 
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