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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I took a load to the dump.
 

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Got it stuck! We have had a ton of rain recently and when I went to park my trailer behind my shop I got it stuck. Disconnected the trailer and pulled it out of the way with my F150. Hooked the truck to the hitch and my wife helped me get it out.

Went to the car wash and wished I had some wheel well liners on the back wheels!

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 

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I plugged the pigtail for the upfitter switches into the connector under the driver's seat. PITA to get to.

Then worked on a panel to mount to the back of the seat base. On that panel will be a terminal block for the CCPs, a terminal block for the upfitter switch pigtail, a busbar for chassis ground, a class T fuseblock and a battery switch. So, all of the connections to vehicle power will appear there, separate from house power.
 

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Continued construction :)

Undid the previous pully work and will replace with the bike lifts (found them on sale while looking for something else so why not?

Completed the prodex all around the walls under the windows, finished out the 1/4" foam board under the windows (still unsure what the final layer will be)... and finally covered the wheel wells with prodex. I had hoped to pull the covers and put the prodex underneath but the black covers stuck out like sore thumbs so why not make them shine silver anyway for now? :)

Had assistant place mini kitchen and patio plastic loveseat into cargo area, bungee them in--- there's a Scout camporee this weekend so I'm going to try out a few new things with the van while there... see what works and what doesn't (again.)

Oh also installed the ventilated (shelving) baskets overhead the windows (except for the very back where the bed will rise! And hung 3 underneath them so I have a double decker on the PS and single on the DS where the cable conduit is. (Can't go with enclosed cabinets ... just won't work for me.) I'm using pressure tabbing (whatever) to hold them in and up (better with weight in them)... had 2 in previously and drove around 100 miles with no issues so hopefully this will work long term. Didn't close up the lined pockets again (had them covered with another layer of Prodex for cold weather) behind the backs of the baskets... Once I decide if I'm putting anything into those pockets, I'll cover them back up.

I think Mulligan likes the attention. ;)
 

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Completed the drawing for a 10 gallon SS grey water tank next to the sliding door. Will review with my welder to be sure how I have drawn it is how he suggests. Then off to the laser cutting shop for cutting and bending. Had already completed the drawings for the shower water tank, the shower pan and the fresh water tank. Last major items that I had not figured out how to make.
 

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Pulled the floating hardwood panels on the floor, painted both sides of them with drylok and replaced them.... reinstalled the mini kitchen for tomorrow's campout...

maybe if I can find the right bolts (assuming I don't need nuts on the back of them?) on my way to the camporee, I can have some tall strong guy attach the boards and pulleys for my bed while there :D (Ok a big strong woman would do too ;) )
 

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Completed the drawing for a 10 gallon SS grey water tank next to the sliding door. Will review with my welder to be sure how I have drawn it is how he suggests. Then off to the laser cutting shop for cutting and bending. Had already completed the drawings for the shower water tank, the shower pan and the fresh water tank. Last major items that I had not figured out how to make.
Orton, from reading that you have SS tanks fabricated for water storage, I've been curious what the cost would be doing it your way for a tank of 13 - 15 gallons. So far the best I've found is going to cost in the neighborhood of $200 after shipping cost thrown in for a polyester water tank. That seems like a lot to pay for such a small plastic container but what are ya gonna do???
 

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Orton, from reading that you have SS tanks fabricated for water storage, I've been curious what the cost would be doing it your way for a tank of 13 - 15 gallons. So far the best I've found is going to cost in the neighborhood of $200 after shipping cost thrown in for a polyester water tank. That seems like a lot to pay for such a small plastic container but what are ya gonna do???
I will let you know the tank costs. Had 14 ga. SS tanks in the Sprinter build but I traded some engineering time for the tanks so did not know the costs.

Since I used to make SS conveyors, I know how to make the .DXF drawings to send to the laser shop for cutting and bending. The parts will then be sent to a welder friend for welding. The advantage of SS is the ability to fabricate odd shaped tanks to maximize the capacity in the space available. I make a wood or cardboard tank to confirm all my dimensions.

Best to make a cardboard tank the size you want and take it to a welding fab shop for an estimate. Include the location and type of fittings and hanger brackets.
 

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Yesterday, I installed a new ground point (hate calling it that) in my utility box area. I used a 3/8", 300 amp, bulkhead through connector because that's what I had laying around. There are many ways you can accomplish this without the expense of the through connector. I drilled a 7/16 hole through the metal at the bottom of the area between the C pillar and wheel tub. I tapped that to 3/8 NC and screwed the connector in. I drilled two additional holes for the mounting screws and then used sheet metal screws to further secure the connector. I also added short jumpers from the screws to the connector just to ensure a good connection should the main connection fail for some reason. I now have a common negative chassis connection point in my utility box for all my vehicle powered add-ons without needing to tap the negative side of the battery at the battery.
 

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Yesterday, I installed a new ground point (hate calling it that) in my utility box area. I used a 3/8", 300 amp, bulkhead through connector because that's what I had laying around. There are many ways you can accomplish this without the expense of the through connector. I drilled a 7/16 hole through the metal at the bottom of the area between the C pillar and wheel tub. I tapped that to 3/8 NC and screwed the connector in. I drilled two additional holes for the mounting screws and then used sheet metal screws to further secure the connector. I also added short jumpers from the screws to the connector just to ensure a good connection should the main connection fail for some reason. I now have a common negative chassis connection point in my utility box for all my vehicle powered add-ons without needing to tap the negative side of the battery at the battery.
I'm having trouble visualizing what you did.

Did you connect the "outside" part of the pass through to a ground or did you use a type of pass through I'm not familiar with?

Pictures please.

???
 

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I used the blue sea pass through. I reversed it and instead of using the provided nut, I tapped the sheet metal. It is NC threaded so it holds very well even though the metal is relatively thin. I'll post a picture later. I have to go get a haircut right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I will let you know the tank costs. Had 14 ga. SS tanks in the Sprinter build but I traded some engineering time for the tanks so did not know the costs.

Since I used to make SS conveyors, I know how to make the .DXF drawings to send to the laser shop for cutting and bending. The parts will then be sent to a welder friend for welding. The advantage of SS is the ability to fabricate odd shaped tanks to maximize the capacity in the space available. I make a wood or cardboard tank to confirm all my dimensions.

Best to make a cardboard tank the size you want and take it to a welding fab shop for an estimate. Include the location and type of fittings and hanger brackets.
My next door neighbor works at Seaport Stainless, just across the highway from us. I'll talk to him about fabrication and costs and any rejects or blem containers that they might sell cheap.
 

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I used the blue sea pass through. I reversed it and instead of using the provided nut, I tapped the sheet metal. It is NC threaded so it holds very well even though the metal is relatively thin. I'll post a picture later. I have to go get a haircut right now.


The added jumpers to the mounting screws are just insurance. The screws are into the van chassis also. Had I thought about this before I put the box in I would have used the nut to secure it to the chassis.
 
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