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It doesn't seem possible to make Dicor self leveling sealant look good. Too late now but is there any method to have a good finish with Dicor?
Noted that Hein mentioned "Flex seal" liquid and so I tried that...much easier to make look good...just got through a 5 day rain storm and not a drop inside.
 

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Too bad their customer service sucks dick. Makes anything else the RV service center says suspect.

EDIT: wow! this forums auto censor didn't catch that!
The service guy was really peeved with Carefree. he said it was stupid of them. they admitted that they had lots of calls about the same problem from other installers. i think there is a contractual reason but he thought it was them having to add another tube for shipping (it extends the whole length of the awning) and it's associated cost. he said a lot of rv'rs are more concerned about the cost than the correct function and installation. he has gone far above any of the other 3 dealers i went to to order and have installed and at between $ 50 and $100 cheaper.
 

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In view of the incident at the Fiamma factory in Florida awhile back, I ordered a Carefree of Colorado Freedom roof mount awning. In order to make sure I had the right parts I contacted the factory prior to ordering.

Today was the day to have it installed. When the dealer started to install the awning ( I have balance issues on ladders) with the brackets they sent he looked confused. The bracket did not line up with the factory holes in the roof. He referenced the catalog and found out that they sent the wrong roof mount brackets (sprinter). While talking to them he found out that they will not sell the brackets that fit perfectly for a flat roof mount unless it is OEM. Their plan (Carefree) was to have you drill holes in the roof and bolt wherever they could. This is in direct conflict from what I have read from Ford on the roof loading. They thought that some time in the future they may release the specific mount to the general public but are not sure if or when.

As a result we came up with a plan to have the extruded alum bracket welded to plates that would span and bolt into the factory holes. So in another week or so it should be ready to finish the install.

Two things:
1. It is pretty _hitty that they do not take advantage of the opportunity and sell to the public.
2. According to the rv service center, Carefree and A&E are the best awnings to install.
So can one buy the carefree mount kit BS0015 that's Ford Transit specific, from a Ford dealer? Winnebago uses them on their Paseo (transit van body). So they must sell to them.
 

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Eternabond RV Sealing Tape

It doesn't seem possible to make Dicor self leveling sealant look good. Too late now but is there any method to have a good finish with Dicor?
An alternative to sealant that looks great is Eternabond Tape. This is what the high-end RV manufacturers are using, as well as commercial roofers. Attached is a photo of where I sealed vents on a Toy Hauler using this tape.

This trailer has Eternabond Tape on all the major seams and seals now. It recently went through 24" of rain from Hurricane Harvey without a drop getting inside. I replaced a leaky skylight in the bathroom of this trailer just after purchase. Put a sheet of thick Plexiglas from Home Depot in place of the mess that was there. The only thing I used to hold it in was this tape. Amazingly sticky stuff.

Most RV stores will have it on the shelf, as well as Roofing Supply stores (often at a lower cost). It has a working life of decades, so it never drys up or deteriorates and will stick to anything except silicone.
 

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Too bad their customer service sucks dick. Makes anything else the RV service center says suspect.

EDIT: wow! this forums auto censor didn't catch that!
Even worse, we did, but at the same time, I agree.
 

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Today I installed my Alpine PWES8 subwoofer in "Big Green", my 2017 green passenger van, under the first row of back seats, and adjacent to the left side wall. Thus far, I am pretty happy with this Alpine sub. For less than $500, I was able to upgrade to the marginal-at-best stock system to a fully satisfactory system. This was accomplished without changing out the head unit--I paid $230 for Hertz speakers to replace the lame front door cardboard speakers and crummy A-pillar tweeters (the Hertz tweeters are mounted on the doors now); and $200 for the Alpine sub. Plus less than $25 for incidentals such as wire, terminals, velcro, solder, electrical tape, etc. The Hertz speakers are superior in every way to the stock speakers (and, being more sensitive, are also a bit louder). And the Alpine sub reproduces with ample authority the lowest octave or so that the Hertz speakers are unable to reproduce. My sound system is now in place for my planned North To Alaska odyssey in May, 2018.

A couple things that may be useful for a fellow newbie thinking of installing a compact subwoofer under the first row of seats in a passenger van:

(1) I tapped the Customer Connection Point for power to the subwoofer. The CCP takes a 5 mm nut, not supplied by Ford rather, by Ace Hardware.

(2) I was leery of drilling holes through the carpet into the floor to secure the subwoofer. I got some industrial strength sticky-back velcro (Ace again) and stuck it to the bottom of the sub. The velcro sticks to the carpet--indeed, so well, that I think it's gonna take a prybar if I ever want to move the sub.

(3) The Ford-approved grounding point between the front seats was easy to find and access under the carpet after I took out the plastic trim piece which spans the width of the van just to the rear of the parking brake housing. On my van, there was already one cable attached to the grounding point; my sub's groundwire made two.

(4) I had to tap the left rear speaker to feed to the high level inputs of the sub because I couldn't figure out how to get the head unit out of the dash without breaking something. The youtube videos make it look easy, but it simply wasn't, for me at least. My tap of the the speaker involved removing some of the insulation on the wires feeding the speaker, and then wrapping the 22 or 24 gauge phone wire around the exposed speaker wire, soldering the connection, and wrapping tape around the connections. Crude but effective. I elected to tap ONLY the left rear speaker and feed it to both L and R high level inputs to save the effort of removing trim pieces, tapping the right rear speaker and running the feed wire across to the left side of the van. The sound is satisfactory, since bass is pretty well distributed equally between L and R on most recordings. And I can always add the tap to the right rear at a later date.
 

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So can one buy the carefree mount kit BS0015 that's Ford Transit specific, from a Ford dealer? Winnebago uses them on their Paseo (transit van body). So they must sell to them.


I had a similar experience as @richards and the Carefree awning. I inquired about the Ford Transit kit that they show on their website and I got no response. Then my local RV shop called and nobody at Carefree knew about the kit. Then told them that they think it’s only available through a Ford dealership, but couldn’t confirm that. What?

I ended up finding a Fiamma through Panther RV as they are starting to get shipments from Fiamma, after their tragedy.


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So can one buy the carefree mount kit BS0015 that's Ford Transit specific, from a Ford dealer? Winnebago uses them on their Paseo (transit van body). So they must sell to them.
i am trying and end around this morning. i called Winnebago and talked to the parts lady. really helpful. confirmed that carefree would not allow them to sell to the public because they wanted to do it. got the winne part number and am having my service person say it is a repair. hopefully the local dealer can call carefree and get it as such.
will update if successful.

update: going through a Winnebago dealer the part can be purchased. approximate cost with shipping is $450.00 not including tax. Carefree will not give them an estimated delivery date until it is ordered and then they suggest it could be a week to 6 weeks.
if you are interested the part number for your local Winne dealer it's #314015-01-01A which refers to milled alum.
the stupidity of this company in not allowing it to go to the general public, thus increasing the cost exponentially will cause them to lose business. with Fiamma shipping again this is a huge mistake. if i had not ordered and have it already i would cancel order.
 

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i am trying and end around this morning. i called Winnebago and talked to the parts lady. really helpful. confirmed that carefree would not allow them to sell to the public because they wanted to do it. got the winne part number and am having my service person say it is a repair. hopefully the local dealer can call carefree and get it as such.
will update if successful.

update: going through a Winnebago dealer the part can be purchased. approximate cost with shipping is $450.00 not including tax. Carefree will not give them an estimated delivery date until it is ordered and then they suggest it could be a week to 6 weeks.
if you are interested the part number for your local Winne dealer it's #314015-01-01A which refers to milled alum.
the stupidity of this company in not allowing it to go to the general public, thus increasing the cost exponentially will cause them to lose business. with Fiamma shipping again this is a huge mistake. if i had not ordered and have it already i would cancel order.
Thanks very much for the info and part number.
 

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I got her wrapped.




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Ok- I'll bite. Cost? Not that I'm ever going to wrap my 130 but, being familiar with the size of the biggest one out there, what do shops get for such a job cost wise? And if someone has a some experience in what the same graphics in paint would have been, pls chime in. A very 'eye-grabbing' piece of work.
 

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Added Rostra after market Cruise control today that has the speed limiter and dual speed memory feature.

Works fine and beats having my foot fall off on long trips.

I hope to get better MPG as well.

Instructions are WRONG that come with the ROSTRA as well as the online instructions.
You have to ignore the Battery wiring connection instructions since the cable that
comes with the control module already have the battery wiring installed.

The Ignition power wiring still needs to be tee'd in to as shown in the instructions.

ROSTRA should include a drill template for the steering cover to help place the
cruise handle.

Works as advertised.
 

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I got my 2 week old (to me) van set up for my daily use of mountain biking, surfing, taking kids to school and going to work without having to leave bikes or boards outside the vehicle.

Still needs lots of tint to keep prying eyes and heat out. Will likely do a lift and slightly larger tires eventually too. Very happy overall with everything but the heinous SYNC system and the gas mileage.
Tint accomplished, and some wheel caps.
 

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My first contribution to this thread. Just got the van a month ago, and have been adding some minor improvements. Follow the link for pictures.

1) Installed a wireless phone charger on a RAM mount above the factory 'phone' pocket, and pulled the wires under the center console. Spiced USB adapter directly into cig lighter wiring, no more mess of wires running from the lighter socket to the phone. The phone now sits perfectly spaced between the shifter and the wiper stalk, in perfect view/reach.
2) Windows tinted (@Tint World). All 3M film, UV blocker on windshield, legal tint on dirver/passenger doors, 20% on top of factory tint on sliding door and opposing window, limo tint on top of factory tint aft of sliding door all the way around. Looks great, and does seem to keep the heat out. That latter part regarding the heat is a purely unscientific observation, likely colored by the thought of all the money I spent on the tinting.
3) Installed Auto Anything mudflaps all around. Fit is excellent, though installation is a bit finicky.
4) Installed side window deflectors, ezpz.
5) Applied vvivid light smoke tint to rear stoplights. Also made a futile attempt to do the same for headlights. No amount of Youtube videos could help me get the wrinkles out of my headlight application, so I'm heading back to Tint World for this one.
6) Debadged the rear end (dealer sticker, TRANSIT 350 XLT lettering)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vGwRPUvITPeccPHE2
 

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Got the wheels back from powder coating and added a light bar.

Cheers,
Eric




Eric- fwiw....in looking the steel wheel I notice there is a part # for a plastic lug nut cap, most likely in black too. Just curious....so see what it would look like. Unique for sure.
 

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Got the wheels back from powder coating and added a light bar.

Cheers,
Eric




Eric- fwiw....looking at steel wheels in FordParts I notice there is a part # for a plastic lug nut cap, most likely in black too. Just curious. Unique for sure. Covers the security lug. ?
 

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Got the wheels back from powder coating and added a light bar.

Cheers,
Eric




Eric- fwiw....looking at steel wheels in FordParts I notice there is a part # for a plastic lug nut cap, most likely in black too. Just curious. Unique for sure. Covers the security lug. ?


I'll check it out, I would prefer all black. Thanks!


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