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did you install the adjustable valve? By adjustable I mean the one with the swivel.

Any issues with the one that you did install? Thanks.
It has no swivel, just a straight nipple, it screwed right in, threads are shorter than the factory drain plug, so be careful of how much torque you put on it.
 

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I must have a whole semi load of boards my Dad cut on his portable sawmill. Mostly VG fir, but some Western oak, madrone, walnut, maple, yew, various fruit trees, etc. all from our property. I need to get around to planing more of it, it's been stacked and stickered for 20-40 years now.

That is awesome. Wood today is stupid expensive and usually just crappy at a warehouse store.
 

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You can read it for yourself at the bottom of his post.
Or you could have just chimed in and told me yourself.

This Thread has 800 some posts.

And just a heads up to you, not every computer, phone or tablet has the same page shown. I don't have everything on this tablet that you're looking at. Enhanced mobile and desktop I've looked at.

So can someone tell me what size engine it is?

I'm pretty sure they have different oil pans. Just for the fact that some people say they spill oil all over the chassis when they drain it. Mine drains right out. No oil anywhere but in the drain pan. That's with a 3.7 L.
 

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Discussion Starter #808
One advantage would be that you cannot gall the threads trying to position a heavy truck tire/rim on the studs.

Studs are easier to repair than broken off bolts, though.
 

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Just curious; anyone know what advantage there is to lug bolts (Audi uses them too) while most factories use lug nuts?
None. I hate lug bolts, but deal with them if I have to. With a lug bolt it is more likely to spin off faster than a lug nut once it gets loose. When you are installing a tire, you need to hold the tire and fit the lug bolt at the same time. With studs you can get the tire aligned an on them and it will hold it's self in place while you install the nuts.
 

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One advantage would be that you cannot gall the threads trying to position a heavy truck tire/rim on the studs.

Studs are easier to repair than broken off bolts, though.
Class 8 trucks use lug nuts, the studs are harder than steel or aluminum wheels, so the studs win.

lug nuts are tapered on one side which perfectly centers the rim on the brake drum or hub, it may be harder to center a rim with bolts instead of lug nuts.
I little harder, I put it on the center hub and turn it to line up a bolt hole.
 

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My 08 Sprinter had lug bolts. You could buy a aluminum pin that you thread into one hole. Get wheel on the pin to support it while you thread in the other bolts. Remove pin for last bolt.
I saw that at Euro SD, never bought one though, would have been more money wasted on that van.
 

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None. I hate lug bolts, but deal with them if I have to. With a lug bolt it is more likely to spin off faster than a lug nut once it gets loose. When you are installing a tire, you need to hold the tire and fit the lug bolt at the same time. With studs you can get the tire aligned an on them and it will hold it's self in place while you install the nuts.
Didn't know the bolts spun off faster if loose. I agree the bolts are a pain but usually I just rested the wheel on the rim around the hub like Sprinter_Owner and spun the wheel to line up the bolt holes. Audi fanatics often converted their bolts to studs. Knowing those German engineers, I figured Mercedes and Audi (and probably BMW) surely have a fancy reason to favor bolts.

My 08 Sprinter had lug bolts. You could buy a aluminum pin that you thread into one hole. Get wheel on the pin to support it while you thread in the other bolts. Remove pin for last bolt.
The Audi's come with the same pin in the toolkit to thread into a hole, plastic though.

lug nuts are tapered on one side which perfectly centers the rim on the brake drum or hub, it may be harder to center a rim with bolts instead of lug nuts.
The lug bolt heads are also tapered on the wheel side just like the lug nuts, so really no difference there.
 

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Built Battery Tray, Installed Shore Power Inlet

Constructed a battery tray from some leftover 3/4" plywood, 5/16" threaded rod with a 1x3" backing and some 1 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar. This will be the floor of the electrical closet just aft of the driver's side bulkhead.

Then I cut a hole to mount the Shore Power inlet receptacle that will be connected to the 2000W pure sine wave inverter converter.

I finished off by placing a Thinsulate order with Hein.
 

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Or you could have just chimed in and told me yourself.

This Thread has 800 some posts.

And just a heads up to you, not every computer, phone or tablet has the same page shown. I don't have everything on this tablet that you're looking at. Enhanced mobile and desktop I've looked at.

So can someone tell me what size engine it is?

I'm pretty sure they have different oil pans. Just for the fact that some people say they spill oil all over the chassis when they drain it. Mine drains right out. No oil anywhere but in the drain pan. That's with a 3.7 L.
Oh, sorry. Here you go: "2017 T250 Long EL with EcoBoost Cargo Work Van"
 

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Added another armrest to the drivers seat, because i was leening on one side to rest my hand on the drivers door armrest and hurting my back on long journeys.




And changed the antenna to a small one
 
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