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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I installed a discreet SPDT on/off/on switch for the cargo area lights.

On the passenger B pillar so it can be reached from either the slider or long reach from driver seat. Cut the switched ground (WH/BLU stripe) that activates the cargo lights, sent it through the switch, and added a constant ground to the other pole of the switch. Now I can turn off the lights, set them to activate as normal, or turn them on even after timer turns off.

I may change to DPDT switches later so I can have multiple switches that act as 3-way or 4-way switches. One switch is fine for now and probably ever.
 

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I installed a discreet SPDT on/off/on switch for the cargo area lights.

On the passenger B pillar so it can be reached from either the slider or long reach from driver seat. Cut the switched ground (WH/BLU stripe) that activates the cargo lights, sent it through the switch, and added a constant ground to the other pole of the switch. Now I can turn off the lights, set them to activate as normal, or turn them on even after timer turns off.

I may change to DPDT switches later so I can have multiple switches that act as 3-way or 4-way switches. One switch is fine for now and probably ever.
The blue wire in the photo is the constant ground? Is it sufficient to be merely grounded to the body*?

* Please bear with me - automobile electricity I rate myself remedial.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The blue wire in the photo is the constant ground? Is it sufficient to be merely grounded to the body*?

* Please bear with me - automobile electricity I rate myself remedial.
Yes. Blue is what was at hand so I used that. In one of the pre-threaded 6x1mm holes.
For my SPDT switch with 3 connectors on back:
1-wired FROM wh/blu cab side
MIDDLE-TO the wh/blu light side
3-negative/ground on body

The lights seem to be controlled by a switched ground rather than a switched positive, I think the positive is constant. Although my connector has 4 pins on the cab side, the light side has only 2. The unused pins are always positive and always negative/ground (blk/grn). The positives may be switched on a timer as well, I didn't test them beyond just closing the doors and turning the key on to shut off the cab lights (in which case the negative turns to 12vdc positive).
 

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Just finished installing 2nd 160 watt solar panel, for a total of 320 watts. with my panels at 54'' width I think I will have to fabricate a fairing to eliminate wind noise at freeway speeds, always something to do !!

MM
 
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I only measured and remeasured the rear opening and tried to fabricate the swing area of a platform on a cheap lift I was thinking of buying so I can put my chair into the back.

The mobility upfitters and companies gouge the disabled... the deer lift I found is under $200 but the mobility lift is more like $2000 (and that is unoccupied lifting). :(

http://cdnll.discountramps.com/images/s/viking-solutions-swivelift-hitch-mounted-lift.jpg

I have been trying to figure if this will work...if I can replace the winch with a better one with better ratio too... for the back opening of my van so I don't have to have anything mounted.

So I measure and remeasure and appease my analysis paralysis needs for another day.
 

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I drank a whole bottle of whiskey and the sharpie was still there :|
Next time drink a whole bottle of Everclear. You probably won't see the graffiti and most likely won't care if you do.
 
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I installed a rear camera and 7" monitor. Took 3-4 HOURS to run the wire, mainly because of the stupid rear door rubber connector. I put on the included license plate camera. It sucks, I'll eventually put a CCD camera up by the 3rd brake light, if I can find a 100-120 degree angle one.
 

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This past week I finally got into that vault they call a battery box. Attach the pigtails for a battery tender and Ran the wire out the rear of the box through a Groove another wiring harness uses. Four or five inches stick out at the rear where can I hook up the tender. Was able to use the extra studs on the battery cable lugs after getting the correct nuts at Ace Hardware. Did not remove driver seat.

After sitting without a charger since mid September, the battery showed 12.58 volts with a multimeter. That was before charging with the tender. After 24 hours I checked the voltage and it was 12.98 volts. After getting the steady green light, every time I check it it is at 12.44 volts. Battery tender was disconnected every time I checked with the multimeter. Do not understand why this is at 12.44 , but that's where it's at.

I have the single battery, with the smaller output alternator. It is not agm.

When it comes time to replace the battery will I be able to use an AGM battery?

Suitcase
 

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This past week I finally got into that vault they call a battery box. Attach the pigtails for a battery tender and Ran the wire out the rear of the box through a Groove another wiring harness uses. Four or five inches stick out at the rear where can I hook up the tender. Was able to use the extra studs on the battery cable lugs after getting the correct nuts at Ace Hardware. Did not remove driver seat.

After sitting without a charger since mid September, the battery showed 12.58 volts with a multimeter. That was before charging with the tender. After 24 hours I checked the voltage and it was 12.98 volts. After getting the steady green light, every time I check it it is at 12.44 volts. Battery tender was disconnected every time I checked with the multimeter. Do not understand why this is at 12.44 , but that's where it's at.

I have the single battery, with the smaller output alternator. It is not agm.

When it comes time to replace the battery will I be able to use an AGM battery?

Suitcase
I think I know why this is happening. I don't want to lead you down the wrong path so give me a day and I'll have mine installed. I'll run some tests and see If I get the same results. I started a thread called Battery Tenders and I'll post my results there.
 

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This past week I finally got into that vault they call a battery box. Attach the pigtails for a battery tender and Ran the wire out the rear of the box through a Groove another wiring harness uses. Four or five inches stick out at the rear where can I hook up the tender. Was able to use the extra studs on the battery cable lugs after getting the correct nuts at Ace Hardware. Did not remove driver seat.

After sitting without a charger since mid September, the battery showed 12.58 volts with a multimeter. That was before charging with the tender. After 24 hours I checked the voltage and it was 12.98 volts. After getting the steady green light, every time I check it it is at 12.44 volts. Battery tender was disconnected every time I checked with the multimeter. Do not understand why this is at 12.44 , but that's where it's at.

I have the single battery, with the smaller output alternator. It is not agm.

When it comes time to replace the battery will I be able to use an AGM battery?

Suitcase
My 5amp tender is installed and after about 20 minutes it went flashing green and now it's solid green. The voltage before was 12.1v, at bulk it hit 14.1 and after bulk it was at 12.98 but as I continue to let the charger run, its come up to 13.04v and appears as though its going to go to at least 13.2v, time will tell. Once again, I could speculate but will hold off until I'm convinced it's run its full cycle. One thing for sure is that a solid green light early does not mean a full charge it only means that you should be able to use it to start the vehicle.
 
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