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Installed remote starter, aquired Forscan obd adapter, working on securing xl dog kennels for a trip out west next week also got it plated.

p.s also got a Trump window sticker

Clifford the big red van
2019 mr 148"
 

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I installed a new passenger side tail light assembly. While unloading at a construction site the Bobcat operator took a chunk of lens with the pallet. $313.18 from my local Ford dealer, including light bulbs.

Last week the alternator seized up on the road. $1604 including towing, serpentine belt and miscellaneous charges. It was the original alternator with 409,000 miles on it. My 2004 Chevy van ate 11 alternators in the 820k miles I had it.
 

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I had Elon over and he converted the Transit dash to a Tesla Screen. ;):cool:

159022

10.3" Lenovo Tablet in a RAM Tablet Mount (TAB6U) and mounted to a ProClip Transit Center Mount clipped into that otherwise near useless pocket. This should significantly improve Navigation, making it easier to see finer detail and to access controls without as much distraction. The phone mount I had been using on the dash was problematic at best and dangerous at worse.

More Detail HERE
 

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I spent $769 to have a new driver side door wiring harness installed. About two years ago the speaker in the driver's door quit working. I figured a wire at the speaker or somewhere in the door broke. I have the basic AM/FM CD radio plus a separate stereo system so I don't use the factory radio much. Sometime last March after driving most of the night in rain I was waiting to get unloaded at a consignee with both side door windows part way down. After unloading, Neither power window would go back up. I tried to check the fuse and couldn't pull it. A visual inspection showed no indication it had blown. I gave up, started the van and to my surprise I was able to raise both windows.

Also during this period I could not lock the driver door using the switch. I could only lock it with the key fob. This was constant. The door problem persisted, although intermittently. Usually after a rain. Last week I could not lower the windows no matter how often I tried. I tried pulling the fuse, one of those square fuses. I even bought a fuse puller made for these, apparently Ford specific fuses. No go. I was sure it was a wiring problem shorting out but thought maybe the power window fuse was blown due to a short. I just wanted to be able to operate my windows.

According to the Ford tech: "Inspected wiring n door on driver side found multiple broken wires in door jam (sic), inspected connector and found corrosion on vehicle side of wiring, replaced driver side door wire harness and cleaned vehicle side connector..."

Driver side speaker, door locks and windows all working now. I guess after 400k miles this could be expected. 820k miles on my last Chevy and no problems with the power windows, door locks, etc.
 

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2017 Transit T250 3.7L. 148wb magnetic
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2,163 Posts
Did my daily wipe down of the dash and door panels.
Scrubbed and soaked the vinyl floor of the cab with water and a little pine sol and
then sucked it up with a wet vac , repeated a few times and then cut and layed down a
piece of plastic to prevent it from getting dirty.
Scrubbed the floor by the sliding door and then used wet vac.

Lightly scrubbed the entire front of my van with one one of those telescoping squeegee things to
remove bug splatter and then rinsed it down , worked pretty good.

Checked oil and coolant.
Brush Flooring Household supply Electric blue Wood
 

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I spent $769 to have a new driver side door wiring harness installed. About two years ago the speaker in the driver's door quit working. I figured a wire at the speaker or somewhere in the door broke. I have the basic AM/FM CD radio plus a separate stereo system so I don't use the factory radio much. Sometime last March after driving most of the night in rain I was waiting to get unloaded at a consignee with both side door windows part way down. After unloading, Neither power window would go back up. I tried to check the fuse and couldn't pull it. A visual inspection showed no indication it had blown. I gave up, started the van and to my surprise I was able to raise both windows.

Also during this period I could not lock the driver door using the switch. I could only lock it with the key fob. This was constant. The door problem persisted, although intermittently. Usually after a rain. Last week I could not lower the windows no matter how often I tried. I tried pulling the fuse, one of those square fuses. I even bought a fuse puller made for these, apparently Ford specific fuses. No go. I was sure it was a wiring problem shorting out but thought maybe the power window fuse was blown due to a short. I just wanted to be able to operate my windows.

According to the Ford tech: "Inspected wiring n door on driver side found multiple broken wires in door jam (sic), inspected connector and found corrosion on vehicle side of wiring, replaced driver side door wire harness and cleaned vehicle side connector..."

Driver side speaker, door locks and windows all working now. I guess after 400k miles this could be expected. 820k miles on my last Chevy and no problems with the power windows, door locks, etc.
There is a TSB from Ford on water getting in the door electrical plugs, All it suggests is removing any corrosion in the plugs.
I have read on the forum of the wires breaking inside that rubber boot the wires travel through between the van body and the door itself, The wires in the hinge area.
 

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Had a power outage from 3:30 am to 11:30 am. Pulled van up by the back door, turned on the inverter and ran extension cord into the house to run refrigerator and freezer. Also had roofing contractor putting a new roof on the barn so ran another extension cord from van for his tools.
 

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RakAttach. Large. Driver Side. Comes with stout anti-rattle device and locking hitch bolt.

UPDATE: It's an excellent, solidly built system, but I've changed my mind about uses for the hitch, so it is For Sale, $400 in Colorado, no wait list.

View attachment 158564

View attachment 158565

View attachment 158566

View attachment 158567

View attachment 158568
Update. I like this swing arm a lot, but my use of the van hitch leans a lot more toward towing than carrying, and RakAttach is not a tow-through device. It's no big deal to put it on and take it off, but I don't carry a bike rack or cargo tray often enough to justify keeping it.
 

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I installed a Surco ladder…Now I can tie all kinds of stuff on the back door! Rotopax, Elk antlers, traction boards, tarp, evil monkey, solar shower, halberd, camp chairs, dirty laundry...the list goes on.
Thoughts on McGrubering a 2-bike carrier like the Surco ladder bike rack ? Too heavy for thin skinned Ford doors?
 

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2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
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Installed the Roadmaster Active Suspension. Thanks to @takedown for the $75 discount code and to @Checkswrecks for the first mention of them I'd heard. Seemed good on a short as-fast-as-possible ten-mile freeway-exchange test drive. Gotta keep the fuel tank empty - it gets pulled today to do the standpipe install.

Automotive tire Wood Bumper Coil Coil spring
 

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I rough installed a Bluetti eb150 in the cabinet behind the drivers seat. Then removed the coleman cooler and installed a setpower aj40 refrig/freezer (thanks surly bill) in the cabinet next to it. Having tested them separately in the house i plugged the eb 150 into the portable 200 w solar panels. They were able to run the fridge and charge the battery pack. Same with the a/c adapter. Drove from Prescott Valley to Gilbert and back (6hours) it easily kept temperature.
Only issue is they claim 55 watts of usage. It was drawing 110 then 0. Looked closely at specs and in small print it says average.
Next will be a 500w inverter to charge while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,593 ·
I installed a flush Anderson Plug port for my removable powerplant/refrigerator cabinet.
No more dangly wires wrapped in electrical tape when the cabinet isn't in!

(plug is powered via CCP buss through "smart" 140a isolator)
 

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2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
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I installed a flush Anderson Plug port for my removable powerplant/refrigerator cabinet.
No more dangly wires wrapped in electrical tape when the cabinet isn't in!

(plug is powered via CCP buss through "smart" 140a isolator)
I really LOVE those plugs! The small ones as well as the big ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,596 ·
I really LOVE those plugs! The small ones as well as the big ones.
I shoulda got this multi port, but I already had a socket/USB port nearby...
Camera accessory Mp3 player Media player Font Gadget


Also search for a 90 degree plug didn't turn up anything. No bother, there's room for the plug/wires to stick out a couple inches in my cabinet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,598 ·
$15 on Ebay and it could be YOURS! :p
 
  • Haha
Reactions: njvagabond

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Discussion Starter · #2,600 ·
Depends on supply and demand
 
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