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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To start off this thread, I ran rear speaker wire down the driver A pillar to connect to head unit and speakers at some point in the future. I also ran a segment of 7-wire sprinkler control cable through the A pillar with short term thoughts of a on/off/door switch replacing the cargo light fuse (with fuse in line) mounted by the slider. And long term thoughts of controlling or powering other things in the cargo area.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Fetched a replacement treadmill since ours bit the dust last week.
Bigger, better Nordictrack that goes to 12mph/5:00 mile speed, adjustable cushion. Now I can watch a movie when I run, or as I've done in years past, the entire Superbowl (walk at halftime).
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I put my 12' step ladder in to take to an installation, and discovered a 12' ladder doesn't fit in an 11'9" room.

12' ladder fits by placing the rungs over the headrest of the lone bench seat, btw. Probably a foot from hitting the overhead shelf in my 148 MR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Springs, how's the build coming along?
 
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I installed a discreet SPDT on/off/on switch for the cargo area lights.

On the passenger B pillar so it can be reached from either the slider or long reach from driver seat. Cut the switched ground (WH/BLU stripe) that activates the cargo lights, sent it through the switch, and added a constant ground to the other pole of the switch. Now I can turn off the lights, set them to activate as normal, or turn them on even after timer turns off.

I may change to DPDT switches later so I can have multiple switches that act as 3-way or 4-way switches. One switch is fine for now and probably ever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The blue wire in the photo is the constant ground? Is it sufficient to be merely grounded to the body*?

* Please bear with me - automobile electricity I rate myself remedial.
Yes. Blue is what was at hand so I used that. In one of the pre-threaded 6x1mm holes.
For my SPDT switch with 3 connectors on back:
1-wired FROM wh/blu cab side
MIDDLE-TO the wh/blu light side
3-negative/ground on body

The lights seem to be controlled by a switched ground rather than a switched positive, I think the positive is constant. Although my connector has 4 pins on the cab side, the light side has only 2. The unused pins are always positive and always negative/ground (blk/grn). The positives may be switched on a timer as well, I didn't test them beyond just closing the doors and turning the key on to shut off the cab lights (in which case the negative turns to 12vdc positive).
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I installed a rear camera and 7" monitor. Took 3-4 HOURS to run the wire, mainly because of the stupid rear door rubber connector. I put on the included license plate camera. It sucks, I'll eventually put a CCD camera up by the 3rd brake light, if I can find a 100-120 degree angle one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I took a load to the dump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I will let you know the tank costs. Had 14 ga. SS tanks in the Sprinter build but I traded some engineering time for the tanks so did not know the costs.

Since I used to make SS conveyors, I know how to make the .DXF drawings to send to the laser shop for cutting and bending. The parts will then be sent to a welder friend for welding. The advantage of SS is the ability to fabricate odd shaped tanks to maximize the capacity in the space available. I make a wood or cardboard tank to confirm all my dimensions.

Best to make a cardboard tank the size you want and take it to a welding fab shop for an estimate. Include the location and type of fittings and hanger brackets.
My next door neighbor works at Seaport Stainless, just across the highway from us. I'll talk to him about fabrication and costs and any rejects or blem containers that they might sell cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
I came closer to accepting that the 2015/17 Transit falls far short of the 2003/06 Sprinter and is not really a good substitute.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
If only we could buy new 2003/06 Sprinters. Therein lies the problem.
Actually, we can. They make them in Russia. We just can't import them to the USA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
I'm sooooo happy with mine over my 2005 Sprinter, it's hard to express!
I'm glad it's an upgrade for you. Maybe mine is a lemon or something; poor build quality with body panels and doors not lining up and slider closing with difficulty, horrible mpg, turning radius of a semi, air filter falling apart from getting wet through the flawed airbox design, rust all over the bottom with only 9500 miles, headlights not lighting anything but a narrow beam forward.

BUT, it's the best thing out there for the money right now. I wouldn't buy a NEW sprinter. I'm just disappointed that it's a step backwards in owner enjoyment, despite being a dozen years newer than my old Sprinter. I realize that I changed brands, and that's probably why it's a step backwards, but according to Sprinter forums, the 2015 Sprinter is also a few steps backwards from the T1Ns. I realize the $20k I saved by buying my T250 over a Sprinter buys a lot of fuel, but it's just not very satisfying also having poorer handling and shoddy manufacturing quality. I'll get over it, and I'll trade this thing in as soon as something with reasonable mpg and quality comes on the market. Crossing fingers for Toyota or Hyundai entering the US market. Or maybe a hybrid Transit, but I'm wary of Ford.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Fabricated most of the murphy bed apparatus on the rear driver side.
Utilizes an Ikea Balkarp sofabed that I picked up when I bought the van for the camping trip home. Will fold up flat above the wheel well, and down to either a couch or bed. I'll do pics and a write-up at some point. Fits perfectly between rear wall and C-pillar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
I installed a discreet SPDT on/off/on switch for the cargo area lights.

On the passenger B pillar so it can be reached from either the slider or long reach from driver seat. Cut the switched ground (WH/BLU stripe) that activates the cargo lights, sent it through the switch, and added a constant ground to the other pole of the switch. Now I can turn off the lights, set them to activate as normal, or turn them on even after timer turns off.

I may change to DPDT switches later so I can have multiple switches that act as 3-way or 4-way switches. One switch is fine for now and probably ever.
Discovered that there IS a timer on the 12vdc POS for the cargo lights; much longer than the timer on the NEG WH/BLU wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Nice switch install. We noticed our LED cargo lights stay on for a extended low power mode for about 20 min and then there will be 'flash' when they turn completely off. We are uninstalling them shortly. Did you locate the timer? Even with the lights uninstalled the timer would still keep the circuit open and draw a small amount of power.


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I never searched for the timer circuit. If there is no ground to complete the circuit, the amount of power drain would barely be measurable. I don't know if the timer is pre or post fuse, but I suspect post fuse. Adding a switch that controls power across the fuse might be a better solution than mine, but you still need to control the ground, so it would need to be a DPDT switch.
 
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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
The timer is in the Body Control Module. The firmware can be refreshed but there's no way to adjust the time delay. The constant load after the system goes to sleep is .027 amps. On a VM it can be seen as .10 volts. This is considered acceptable by Ford. If it's a daily driver you shouldn't have a problem but if its a grocery getter or RV that sits most of the time then get a battery tender and plug it in every couple of days. I try to leave mine plugged in until the float voltage reaches 13.2v.

As a side note, you can force it into sleep mode by simply locking the doors with the remote. It will go into full sleep about 5 minutes after that. All doors must be closed and the first door that opens brings it out of sleep mode.
For such a small drain, one of those little $20 1.5 watt solar battery chargers would work well. Plug it in and set it on the dash. HOWEVER, I think the Transit 12vdc powerpoints shut off with the timer, so you couldn't back-feed voltage to the battery, you would have to hook up a powerpoint directly to the battery like I did.

Oops, it's only $12...http://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-solar-battery-charger-68692.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Last thing I did today was my passenger side rear door. Discovered where your avatar came from. :eek:
that's the best one, I laugh every time I see it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
WHOA! HEY!
I adjusted my slider to shut without slamming 5-6 times!
Turns out the dealer and their body shop aren't so bright. I decided to play with it myself and was able to adjust it to shut easily, however it sticks out a bit more at the rear bottom edge. I moved the strike bar out 1/8", and the top cab end out nearly 1/8" (limit of travel). Messed with the lower cab end but could not get the back end IN without the front edge hitting the passenger door.

Think of it as a vertical plane of a triangle pointing to the Left. That Left edge is a pivot, and the angle of the plane is adjusted via the top and bottom Right corners. Moving the top front OUT should also move the bottom rear IN, but it didn't move much. I might try again by loosening all the pivot/adjustments a bit at the same time and "racking" (framing terminology) it into place and then tightening it down.

One less thing to gripe about, I guess. :dodgy:
 
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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
So has anyone tried adjusting the bumper up in the upper left corner of the door frame? Seems to me that would be the easiest fix for rattles and hard closing.
Yes.
No.
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Was your door sagging at all? I just noticed that the door on our van is toward the rear (slider) side of the door. When the door is open, we can easily lift it up a bit at that end, so I'm assuming it's just a lose bolt or something that's causing this. It isn't even my van, but my OCD is kicking in regardless lol.
It wasn't sagging, but the mounts are at their extreme limit just to get the door and body sheet metal to line up. If they were all at "middle" settings, the door would be sagging more than a half inch lower than markings on the body. The elevator screw on the back middle roller was loose, tightening the nut at the bottom reduced a bunch of clatter and movement.
 
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