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when in doubt, contact cement used FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS always works.
 
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I've used FRP adhesive on similar products with good results. I would test out a few different things on scrap before pulling the trigger. Check with a local commercial flooring crew (find the installers, don't go to the retail store) and see if they have a few different products you can sample out of their van.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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I used 3M-90 contact spray adhesive to hold vinyl stair tread ending on my vinyl plank floor, I weighted them down with paint cans for 24 hours after applying. Its been a month and so far no issues or movement after sliding gear in and out over it. I personally like the vinyl stair trim as edging as it is easy on bare feet. It does not cut as precisely, or give a polished look as the metal stuff, but it won't slice up your feet if you hit a corner.
 

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To bond (flexible) vinyl flooring planks to Armstrong vinyl flooring (similar use case as yours?), I used 'Roberts 2057, Premium Vinyl Composition Tile Glue Adhesive' from Home Depot. At $6.xx for a quart, it's worth a try. It's worked well for me so far...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BTW, the X-15 formula is different from the glue used for hard PVC / ABS pipe fittings, which does not work on flexible PVC liner. That said, contact cement is a good choice. Another adhesive that might work well is double sided carpet tape. That stuff is tenacious. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts...le-Sided-Carpet-Tape-Roll-50-605-12/204470902
Understood X-15 PVC liner cement is not the same as PVC pipe cement, two totally different things. I had some X-15 PVC Liner cement and tested yesterday on new vinyl plank floor piece. After one hour it seemed loose still and was supposed to have set. Being in no hurry, I let it sit all night. Later yesterday I took another piece of scrap plank floor but this one I sanded the pre-finish off to give the cement more bite. I glued another piece of edging and let it sit overnight also.

I check the pieces after work and am impressed at the hold. I'm sure I could tear it off by hand, especially the sample on new, unsanded floor. I may test the pound pull required to separate each sample but I'm sure the sanded piece would do better. I am also curious on contact cement gel so I'll wait till I get some and make a third test sample before commiting in the van on my new floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So my Weldwood Gel Contact Cement came today. Instructions state 7 days before full cure. The X-15 liner cement cured in 24 hours.

I want to do a measured pull test on both X-15 liner cement and Weldwood contact cement. Do I really need to wait a week to pull test the contact cement?

Instructions pdf:
https://www.dap.com/media/74690/nonflam-contact-cement-tb0705.pdf
 

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So my Weldwood Gel Contact Cement came today. Instructions state 7 days before full cure. The X-15 liner cement cured in 24 hours.

I want to do a measured pull test on both X-15 liner cement and Weldwood contact cement. Do I really need to wait a week to pull test the contact cement?

Instructions pdf:
https://www.dap.com/media/74690/nonflam-contact-cement-tb0705.pdf

Time for more independent testing!


Make 3 pieces with the contact cement. Pull one at 24 hours, one at 4 days and the final at 7 days and post your results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I tested 3 samples in a pull test using an 80 lb luggage hanging scale. All three samples exceeded the capacity of the luggage scale.

#1 . X-15 liner cement on new vinyl plank floor
#2 . X-15 liner cement on sanded vinyl plank floor
#3 . Contact adhesive gel on sanded vinyl plank floor

I then did an unmeasured test, peeling the vinyl edging off by hand.

Sample #1 came off the plank floor fairly easy. Sample #3 was a bit harder.

I was unable to "easily" get sample #2 removed from plank by hand. It was a real struggle.

Thanks for the tips.
 

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2019 T-350 HR 148 Extended 3.5 EB, Full time 2 person build, Chinese Heater, Victron, 525 AH Lithium
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I’m going to try hh66. For those who haven’t used it - this stuff is incredible. And 1970s toxic. As with all adhesives - follow the instructions. Unfortunately I’ve never been able to buy this locally and it’s a bit pricey. I’d describe it as an ultra strong rubber cement.
 
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