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The way I have always understood it is that the exhaust air spins the turbine, which is on a shaft shared with the compressor on the fresh air intake side. The more exhaust you have coming out, the more fresh air gets crammed into the intake. With a higher numerical differential the engine turns faster at any given speed, and so more exhaust is coming out and therefore more air is going in. In essence, at a pre-determined speed, the turbos on a 3.73 rear end are spinning faster than they would be on the 3.31 rear end.

Theoretically, a motor spinning faster will use more fuel, but again there are many other variables to consider. If the engine is turning too slowly then there is a greater load on the engine which can use more fuel. I had an old GTI with a pretty detailed trip computer. At about 50 mph on a flat road on cruise control it was more fuel efficient in 4th gear than it was in 5th gear.

Maybe someone with the Torque app on their Transit can do a few tests monitoring load and rpm in various gears.

Edit: I would assume there are ways to bypass the turbos so they only provide boost when needed. I just don't know enough about they work.
 

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Hello all,
We're late to the game ! Couldn't find a '19 that meets our goals (two of us -- multiday adventure vehicle...road/mtn bike, kitchen, kiteboarding gear...ect)

We're doing an extended high roof -- solar, small kitchen and what not based on a really pretty simple order (considered prep packages including upfitter switches/AGM house but decided I can completely isolate and install everything where we'd want it via a 'bare bones.'

But please weigh in -- are we missing something obvious?
Body: R3X (250 RWD High Roof Extended)
PowerTrain: 99G (Ecoboost)
53B -- Heavy Duty Tow
64S -- Alum Rims
X7L -- 3.73 Limited Slip
17B -- Passenger Slide and Rear Fixed Glass
52C -- Keyless Entry
90G -- PushDown Parking
21R -- Drv/Pass 10 Way Heated Ebony seats
J7 -- Magnetic Color

We're handy -- and I can add swivels to cope with the power seats -- and can wire/plumb everything...and don't need bells/whistles (nav/lane depart/cruise cntrl) and all that...just really curious for feedback.
Thx!!
 

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As TurboDave alluded to, the aftermarket windows don't use the same size cut outs as the OEM windows, so if you think you will want a window with a small screened sliding section, do not get the OEM windows.

I would certainly get cruise if I was doing any travelling.

Swivel seats can be made to work with the power seats, but you have to power raise the seat all the way every time, and also cut some trim around the base of the seat. Some people have indicated that the switch for the heated seats is in the way.

Not sure what the leather seat option costs these days, but a set of leather replacement covers can be had for about $700, and seat heaters with several levels of adjustability (as opposed to the OEM OFF and BROIL settings) are cheap enough in the aftermarket and you can put the switch in a better spot.

I see you spec'd the HD Tow package. If you think you are going to tow something, get the OEM trailer brake controller. It cannot be added later without quite some effort. It also integrates with the OEM trailer sway control, stability control, hill start assist, etc. An aftermarket controller will not have that functionality.

Good luck with your build!
The Van man said there is an aftermarket window installer in Tyler, TX. Anyone know who that is? Any installers closer to SC/NC? Thanks. I'm planning something similar in a 2020 cargo. Also not sure I can get the extra seat for 2 just in case I have that need from time to time? Thanks
 

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The Van man said there is an aftermarket window installer in Tyler, TX. Anyone know who that is? Any installers closer to SC/NC? Thanks. I'm planning something similar in a 2020 cargo. Also not sure I can get the extra seat for 2 just in case I have that need from time to time? Thanks

Any decent RV shop should be able to do it. Start by finding what window you want, like CR Laurence brand or Motion Window, etc, and then look for a list of approved installers from that manufacturer. Or get a 6 pack of courage and some metal shears and have at it!
 

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Hello all,
We're late to the game ! Couldn't find a '19 that meets our goals (two of us -- multiday adventure vehicle...road/mtn bike, kitchen, kiteboarding gear...ect)

We're doing an extended high roof -- solar, small kitchen and what not based on a really pretty simple order (considered prep packages including upfitter switches/AGM house but decided I can completely isolate and install everything where we'd want it via a 'bare bones.'

But please weigh in -- are we missing something obvious?
Body: R3X (250 RWD High Roof Extended)
PowerTrain: 99G (Ecoboost)
53B -- Heavy Duty Tow
64S -- Alum Rims
X7L -- 3.73 Limited Slip
17B -- Passenger Slide and Rear Fixed Glass
52C -- Keyless Entry
90G -- PushDown Parking
21R -- Drv/Pass 10 Way Heated Ebony seats
J7 -- Magnetic Color

We're handy -- and I can add swivels to cope with the power seats -- and can wire/plumb everything...and don't need bells/whistles (nav/lane depart/cruise cntrl) and all that...just really curious for feedback.
Thx!!
The dual alternator option sure sounds tempting...
 

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Is it still an option to get 4 keys instead of 2? Do it.
Cruise: yes!
More adjustable seats: especially if you will take turns driving; assume there is still no “manual” adjustment beyond forward-back, seatback tilt (no lumbar, no seat bottom tilt).
Bigger gas tank: yes
Maybe skip the alum wheels, and go aftermarket, use your stock steel ones for snow tires??? Just a thought.
Are the upgraded headlights available?
 

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Any decent RV shop should be able to do it. Start by finding what window you want, like CR Laurence brand or Motion Window, etc, and then look for a list of approved installers from that manufacturer. Or get a 6 pack of courage and some metal shears and have at it!
Thanks - I'll have to get it done - not enough courage to start cutting holes in a new van - LOL. I looked into CR Lawrence for a Sprinter I had for a few years but never moved on it.
 

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I have #;73 for same reason, bigger tires at some point, and also power anytime. and get cruise control, way more useful than you think, i rarely don't use it out on open road.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks all!
Update -- we've added Cruise, ditched the slider window, added two extra keys and have reaffirmed our previous picks! Getting closer....
 

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I second the dual alternator suggestion. Also if auto start or remote start is available I would bet it.
I am trying to decide whether or not to get dual alternators. What could be the advantages of having two, instead of one 250amps?
 

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I looked at what my needs would be for 12v current and it never came close to exceeding 250 amps. I think it would be great for an application like an ambulance running heavy A/C and or a large inverter while idling, etc.
 

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Yep, Dual alternators is overkill for most people.
I think many people here are dreaming of powering a roof mount air conditioner with batteries in a camper van conversion.
 

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250 amps is a lot more juice than most vehicles have available, but if the output can be split it would be beneficial for dual or house battery setups. Other than that, probably over kill but more power...😎

Remote start and entry keypads can be purchased and installed for less than ordering as an option, and they are identical.
  • Bought another keypad last week for $68 from my dealer and stuck it on.
  • Bought the remote start from the dealer for under $200 and installed it in a morning - comes with detailed instructions.
 

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Isn’t standard a 150 amp alternator unless you spring for duals?
Not sure on the 2020, but in previous years the wagons have come with the HD alternator.
 

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Yes 150 amp alternator is standard, You can get dual batteries with the 150 amp alternator as an option.
Many people here have later added dual batteries after purchase to the standard alternator to slightly increase the usable amperage that can be drawn from the batteries, 30 amps vs 60 amps.
 
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