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Discussion Starter #1
The current collection of information around this issue only points to other mechanics doing the work, It doesn't look like a DIY / How-To exists for doing the manifold repair. I am just gonna start documenting things here, if anyone has any additional resources please add to this thread. So far all i've got is this info:


torque specs needed for this repair:
exhaust manifold nuts---------------------- Install new studs 8.8 ft./lbs. 2nd step; Install new nuts 14 ft./lbs. 3rd step; 18.5 ft./lbs. exhaust manfiold studs, 15 ft./lbs turbo to manifold bolts 28 ft/lbs. turbo water snap to connect fitting 8-13 ft/lbs. turbo oil supply bolts 18ft/lbs. -----------------------PART NUMBERS USED IN THIS VIDEO------------------------ down pipe gasket-BL3Z-9450-A (1 Req) https://amzn.to/2GDOkOD Gasket - F-150 (1 Req) downpipe stud-W716667-S900 (1 req) https://amzn.to/2XNc3TN Manifold to Turbo gasket right side-CL3Z-9450-A (1 Req) https://amzn.to/2PCEhxL Manifold to Turbo gasket left side-CL3Z-9450-B ( 1 Req) https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/... W715673-S900 Turbo Bolt - (3 Req) DL3Z-6K682-E -----Turbocharger - Left Hand - 2013-2015 https://amzn.to/2GMj6oX ------DL3Z-6K682-F Turbocharger - Right Hand - 2013-2015 https://amzn.to/2GyZLY3 top coolant line connector on turbo https://amzn.to/2XHTksD Front coolant connecto on engine: https://amzn.to/2IGLRXf Coolant connector facing motor on turbocharger: https://amzn.to/2XCwhiW Coolant connector on back of cylinder head. https://amzn.to/2UWuxnz EXHAUST MANIFOLD (PAIR) https://amzn.to/2GH3CUg EXHAUST MANIFOLD (LEFT) BL3Z9431B https://amzn.to/2GF678u EXHAUST MANIFOLD (RIGHT) BL3Z9430B https://amzn.to/2UW9lyl EXHAUST STUD https://amzn.to/2GwsfSe

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Discussion Starter #2

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OR try to extract the bolt with everything still on there and just replace that stud and bolt and band-aid it for a while into the future. hmmmmm
How are you going to remove a broken stud with the manifold still on there? I'm picturing the nut broken off with the top of the stud so the remnant stud is level with the surface of the manifold plate.

If that's the case, I've removed broken studs and bolts that aren't sticking up proud of the surrounding surface by welding a nut onto the remnant stud. The nut barely touches the stud. Weld the middle of the nut down onto the top of the remnant.

That wouldn't block off your future options. If it doesn't work, you can still do things the correct and hard way. I have no idea how much room there is for this. Drill and extractor if you have lots of room.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah i was thinking the welding-a-nut to the flush-broken stud. but then the old gasket will still be compromised even if I do get a new stud and not on there.
 

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I wonder if any of the exhaust manifold sealants would work to seal up damage to the gasket. At least temporarily like you were thinking.

It couldn't hurt - worst case is you'd have to fix things the correct way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I place order for the CRP manifolds last night $600 shipped
Then all the gaskets, studs, bolts, nuts required to complete the job - another $253 shipped from Tasca ford
Doing new spark plugs I'm at 100k miles, $25
Bilstein B6 front shocks - $216
Fox remote res rear shocks $775 shipped
I just did the rear brakes and flipped the brackets over those pads were like $40 or so

Around $1900 in "rent" this month! Fricken heck, good thing these parts should last a long time.
I also spent $1300 on a new gaming/editing laptop as I'm getting into video editing.

I choose to afford these things since I live in incredible abundance and hopefully these parts get me to places to hug and make pancakes for all the people who need hugs and pancakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone have access to the book for doing the exhaust manifolds? Anyone with an alldatadiy account I can get access to ? I can trade access to my family plan for google play music/youtube music premium
 

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Discussion Starter #10
is this manifold issue common to every 3.5 ecoboost engine ??
No. But there are a chunk of issues in the F150s as well. Have not heard anything about the sedans that this motor is mounted transversely in.

But if you look at the design of the manifold you can see why... ports 1 and 2 each have 3 bolts very close to the perimeter of the port. Port 3 only has 2 bolts.
 

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so it's an issue that's existed for awhile. This wakes up memories of a 1990 F250 i had with the 302 V8. Whenever i came off the interstate, and stop the truck with engine idling, i'd hear the driver side rear cylinder or rather the rear piston slapping, and it would do it for awhile until engine temps had come down.

Between that F250 and an earlier F150 with the same 302 V8 (that had the same issue) the service manager finally opened up that it was a common issue with that V8, that one of the cylinder boring mills or tools was off and not cutting the cylinder exactly as it should (don't remember if it was not perpendicular to the crankshaft or what the issue was.

When i asked him why Ford didn't correct the issue, his response was they had a similiar problem on the inline 6 cylinder engine that had been in production for 30+ years.

They never resolved the issue, simply telling me they'd made note in their file and to drive it till it locked up. At the time i was traveling to Nova Scotia, Canada (from Virginia) a lot, and didn't relish spending a couple of weeks at a dealership somewhere on the road, so i traded that truck in.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yesterday in about 6 hours I got the drivers side turbo removed. Broke 1 turbo mounting bolt, Broke 1 exhaust flange bolt so far. Of the 7 remaining exhaust manifold bolts... I'm betting 3 of them break today. Hoping for only 1 though!. Been soaking all night... will hit them with heat, then spray them again, then hit them, I hope the impact fits in there but probably will have to do it by hand. Lying on my back under the van getting coolant and oil running up (down) your arm and into your face... priceless!

I had to remove the wastegate actuator while the turbo was still mounted in order to get to the third flange bolt.

The jiffy tite 3/8" quick release tool is not necessary, it can be a little easier to pry the clips out with a pick first instead. I'll take some pics and video today I think/maybe.
 

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More I read these things more convinced getting the super long extended warranty is the way to go.

I think the best way to buy them is to wait until you get to about 20K miles and then look for deals.

I still think they could make better bolts though. Why not just make them thicker and stainless steel?
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Discussion Starter #17
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More I read these things more convinced getting the super long extended warranty is the way to go.

I think the best way to buy them is to wait until you get to about 20K miles and then look for deals.

I still think they could make better bolts though. Why not just make them thicker and stainless steel?
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Yeah a warranty might be nice - then you do have to figure how long they will have your vehicle, in my case my house, in which I would be forced to accommodate myself and my dependents in some other fashion. Yikes. Read the fine print on the extended warranties to make sure exhaust manifolds are covered, hopefully you will be able to supply your own parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I'm waiting to extract the studs on the driver side - need a longer cable to plug in the TIG welder.

Today I got everything off the passenger side too. The rear most stud on that one was already broken on the passenger side, so both manifolds are warped and have a broken rear stud. This is at 98,000 miles or so, all easy driving, I usually never go over 65 mph and accelerate very slowly and stay out of the boost as much as possible.

I got my first practice at TIG welding to remove the broken exhaust flange bolt from the turbo

So I'm going to be trying to TIG weld two broken studs on the passenger side, and like 4 or 5 broken studs on the driver side, which has less access.

I am so lucky to have my brother. It's easier to stay positive when you have some help here and there and access to tools/welder etc even if I'm on my back on cobblestones. My neck, hands, and forearms are hurting from working over my head! But it's good to have arms neck and hands to even feel.

you can see in some of these pics just how warped those stock manifolds are.

Then take a look how much thicker the CRP manifolds are.


















 

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Discussion Starter #19
You can see the rear most stud location on the driver side manifold just laying underneath the vehicle without removing anything. I wonder if folks would check their studs and report back their mileage and we can make a log of Studs Tight Gripping still - or STDs for short.
 

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Wow, that's crazy. I wonder if Ford will have to do a recall or TSB to replace those!
 
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