Ford Transit USA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need some help trying to identify the new Vehicle Interface Connector on the 2018 and later vehicles.**I found a number of posts that mention the six pin connector part number, but in searching the BEMM I can't find anything on the "latest & greatest" 8 pin connector.**Attached are the pages I am looking for in the 2019 BEMM.**

6 Way- Connector A = 3U2Z-14S411-JBA
8 Way- Connector B = Female Plastic Shell in Van, need molex 33012-2002 or similar to populate connector shell

My next step is to take the driver seat off and confirm that the BEMM is correct and maybe collect the connector part number from the physical connector.**I have been putting off removing the driver seat since is seems like a little bit of a chore, but maybe it is time to roll up the sleeves and geter dun!


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
My 2018 (built Nov '17 if I recall correctly) has an 8 pin. It had an empty connector shell that I populated with Molex MX150 crimp terminals. I was going to post some pictures when I got the chance but all is working well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
My 2018 (built Nov '17 if I recall correctly) has an 8 pin. It had an empty connector shell that I populated with Molex MX150 crimp terminals. I was going to post some pictures when I got the chance but all is working well.
So it had a fully populated connector half with harness wired into the van (harness highlighted in the BEMM) and then an empty shell that just needed the crimp terminals? Or you just used the crimp terminals without any connector to get to individual pins?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
So it had a fully populated connector half with harness wired into the van (harness highlighted in the BEMM) and then an empty shell that just needed the crimp terminals? Or you just used the crimp terminals without any connector to get to individual pins?
It had a proper empty connector shell for the female terminals plugged into the van side. I took lengths of wire, 8 different colours, crimped the terminals on (proper crimper will be hard to find or expensive for most), populated them into the shell, and plugged the connector back in (after installing some split loom on the bundle). There's a white lock tab thing that needs to be gently pryed out before doing this and snapped back when done.

To start I had purchased a 6 pin pigtail kit, thinking this was the one I needed. When I got in there I swore, but was happy to find that I wouldn't need to purchase the 8 pin pigtail kit. I returned the 6 pin kit for a small restocking fee since I had special ordered it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
BTW, I believe it was about the 4th or 5th time I had the driver's seat off and the battery box taken apart this past weekend. I've become quite the expert at it. Yes, it's a bit of a chore and I'm really hoping this time was the last in a long time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
@Sparky961 Thanks for the reply and confirmation.

Just the female molex crimps will be easier to get than the whole wire bundle.

I guess this weekend Ill get to start my exploration into the battery box ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,034 Posts
I need some help trying to identify the new Vehicle Interface Connector on the 2018 and later vehicles ...
When I was looking for connectors I did a visual search through the Ford Pigtail Book, but I see that this one was published in 2016. Maybe there is a newer version out there for you. Or maybe the connector that you need is an older one, and is in this book.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
When I was looking for connectors I did a visual search through the Ford Pigtail Book, but I see that this one was published in 2016. Maybe there is a newer version out there for you. Or maybe the connector that you need is an older one, and is in this book.


Thanks for the info. I couldn’t find an updated book, but it does contain a number of 8 pin connectors. If my first plan doesn’t pan out I’ll dig through the pigtail book some more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
What are you trying to do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
Laudable goal, but my Sterling comes on automagically.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
I've been using a simple high current relay controlled by the run signal for a week now. So far it's been working great.

I do not expect I'm treating the FLA batteries as well as I could, but I'm happy with the measurements so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
I thought the igntion on signal was used by some b2b chargers when the vehicle has a "smart alternator", because the voltage coming from the alternator might drop, and you would want the b2b continue charging as long as the vehicle was running. Now that I think about it, this doesn't make sense. Can anybody explain why a b2b might need an ignition on signal?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #15

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I thought the igntion on signal was used by some b2b chargers when the vehicle has a "smart alternator", because the voltage coming from the alternator might drop, and you would want the b2b continue charging as long as the vehicle was running.
I didn’t want to use the ignition line because I don’t want the battery to charge if the key / ignition is in the accessory mode (engine off).

Now that I think about it, this doesn't make sense. Can anybody explain why a b2b might need an ignition on signal?
The charger I am using needs a +12V signal to turn on. (See above ^^)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
You need to know when it's charging, not when the ignition is turned on. On the Transit there are at least two ways of doing this: a) using the VIC/RUN signal or b) detecting "charging" voltage vs. "resting" voltage.

In theory, the voltage method is better because theoretically the "RUN" signal will still be active if the alternator dies or is putting out abnormally low voltage. That said, you're going to have a bunch of warning lights already if that happens so you can manually disengage your charge system to preserve existing battery power until you can fix the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,478 Posts
I thought the igntion on signal was used by some b2b chargers when the vehicle has a "smart alternator", because the voltage coming from the alternator might drop, and you would want the b2b continue charging as long as the vehicle was running. Now that I think about it, this doesn't make sense. Can anybody explain why a b2b might need an ignition on signal?
I was here for that whole argument, So far no one has proved that the USA Transit actually has Smart charge/Regenerative braking.
(One guy posted info from the European Transit saying it does have Smart charge/Regen Braking so it was guessed that the USA Transit might have it too.)

Smart Charge/Regenerative braking is the reason Sterling sometimes requires a ignition switched hot but I do not remember what that reason was.

All but one Sterling install that was shared on this forum did Not use a ignition switched hot,

And I think the one guy that did use it just wanted peace of mind that the Sterling would not run the Transit battery dead when the Transit was stored not being used. (The Sterling electronics May draw power from the house battery or vehicle battery to keep the electronics alive.)


In 3 years my Sterling BBW1260 has not run either my house battery nor my Transit battery dead when the vehicle is in storage. (No ignition switched hot.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
You need to know when it's charging, not when the ignition is turned on. On the Transit there are at least two ways of doing this: a) using the VIC/RUN signal or b) detecting "charging" voltage vs. "resting" voltage.

In theory, the voltage method is better because theoretically the "RUN" signal will still be active if the alternator dies or is putting out abnormally low voltage. That said, you're going to have a bunch of warning lights already if that happens so you can manually disengage your charge system to preserve existing battery power until you can fix the problem.
My battery monitor (with shunt) detects a charging condition. I may be wrong, but when I see 45 amps on that puppy I assume it’s the Sterling putting that out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I got around to getting my Renogy 20amp charge installed this weekend. Below is a diagram and a few pictures. The mating connector was there for me to use, it just needed to be populated with the molex 33012-2002 crimps as Sparky mentioned.






 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top