[Knarfly]

You didn't keep those measurements around, did you?

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Best to take your own measurements as these vans can vary, and you’ll have to remove the headliner to install the rivnuts anyways. You’re just measuring center to center on each rib essentially. Note this is more than just the gray tree plug as there are ribs in between.

I used a 94” piece of extrusion for the main length though if that helps, it is a bit too long as it compresses the curve of the headliner in the front and back.

 

[Tniebli]

That is helpful. Thanks!

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[MCQ]

I installed rivnuts into the ribs where the gray plastic headliner plug typically goes.

Vey nice work. Any other tips on ordering parts to build and fasten a ceiling frame in a 2019 Passenger wagon? Tnutz vs 80/20? Did you build the overhead cabinets?

 

[Knarfly]

Vey nice work. Any other tips on ordering parts to build and fasten a ceiling frame in a 2019 Passenger wagon? Tnutz vs 80/20? Did you build the overhead cabinets?

Tnutz is cheaper by far. Make sure you know how to install a rivnut, I had one spin and had to drill it out which was not fun on the ceiling rib. If you're going to run the rail up to the very front rib above the driver/passenger seat you can order the 40mm dynamic pivot hinge from Tnutz as well. It's less than half the price of 8020 and the size difference isn't noticeable from the 15 series extrusion (38mm). The very front rib holes don't align on the extrusion, they're narrower, so I used a 90 degree corner bracket and drilled my own holes.

When you install the long rail it will be at an angle like the curve of the roof, the cross member helps pull them together. I used a counterbore and anchor fastener assembly. Dimension needs to be pretty exact for that fastener. I suggest just getting the long rails up before ordering the cross members, measure accounting for them to be pushed square. Mine was 36-13/16" but I can't guarantee yours will be the same. I would advise thru-bolting the rail to the ceiling. I just used an access hole with the head of the bolt under the top side t-slot and it was a challenge to get up and align. You will need a longer bolt then you think because you have the space of the headliner and foam before you can thread it in. I think I used a 2-1/2", but thru bolting would need to be 3-1/2- 4"

I would also plan any above the headliner work before putting it up (wiring/insulation), I've probably taken down my headliner 10+ times and it isn't a big issue but would have been nice to not have to. You definitely want LED strip lights in the extrusion. I like these 5v ones so I wired to 12v with a 12v to USB step down 9.8ft is almost perfect length and the remote works pointed almost anywhere, the kids like it and it's much better than the puck lights. You can never have enough attachment points up there. Metric eye rings were cheaper for some reason so I ordered these M8 eye rings, with these M8 studs and add some plastic washers so you don't scratch the extrusion a bunch. Studs are a little long, but they were a better deal on amazon. I think that's all I can think of, let me know if you have any more questions.

Yes I built the overhead cabinets!

 

[MCQ]

Tnutz is cheaper by far. Make sure you know how to install a rivnut, I had one spin and had to drill it out which was not fun on the ceiling rib. If you're going to run the rail up to the very front rib above the driver/passenger seat you can order the 40mm dynamic pivot hinge from Tnutz as well. It's less than half the price of 8020 and the size difference isn't noticeable from the 15 series extrusion (38mm). The very front rib holes don't align on the extrusion, they're narrower, so I used a 90 degree corner bracket and drilled my own holes.

When you install the long rail it will be at an angle like the curve of the roof, the cross member helps pull them together. I used a counterbore and anchor fastener assembly. Dimension needs to be pretty exact for that fastener. I suggest just getting the long rails up before ordering the cross members, measure accounting for them to be pushed square. Mine was 36-13/16" but I can't guarantee yours will be the same. I would advise thru-bolting the rail to the ceiling. I just used an access hole with the head of the bolt under the top side t-slot and it was a challenge to get up and align. You will need a longer bolt then you think because you have the space of the headliner and foam before you can thread it in. I think I used a 2-1/2", but thru bolting would need to be 3-1/2- 4"

I would also plan any above the headliner work before putting it up (wiring/insulation), I've probably taken down my headliner 10+ times and it isn't a big issue but would have been nice to not have to. You definitely want LED strip lights in the extrusion. I like these 5v ones so I wired to 12v with a 12v to USB step down 9.8ft is almost perfect length and the remote works pointed almost anywhere, the kids like it and it's much better than the puck lights. You can never have enough attachment points up there. Metric eye rings were cheaper for some reason so I ordered these M8 eye rings, with these M8 studs and add some plastic washers so you don't scratch the extrusion a bunch. Studs are a little long, but they were a better deal on amazon. I think that's all I can think of, let me know if you have any more questions.

Yes I built the overhead cabinets!

This is great info , thanks for your time. I've done quite a bit of riv nutting in this van. Key for me was making sure to use the 25/64 drill bit and go straight in as possible you probably know. I was always a bit worried to have one spin as it must be a PITA. My ceiling has been off once so far to insulate with Havelock wool and install some lighting. Not looking forward to removal replacement again but that extruded frame on the ceiling is exactly what I need. Nice work on the cabinets, I'm stealing that design

 

[Knarfly]

This is great info , thanks for your time. I've done quite a bit of riv nutting in this van. Key for me was making sure to use the 25/64 drill bit and go straight in as possible you probably know. I was always a bit worried to have one spin as it must be a PITA. My ceiling has been off once so far to insulate with Havelock wool and install some lighting. Not looking forward to removal replacement again but that extruded frame on the ceiling is exactly what I need. Nice work on the cabinets, I'm stealing that design

Sounds like you won’t have a problem then! The ceiling frame has definitely been more useful than anticipated. It’s a great addition if you can sacrifice the head room.

 

[Knarfly]

I built a frame with some 8020 I had around to secure the dometic fridge and attach it to the floor behind the driver seat. There isn't a need for the slide in this configuration, so I may build a cabinet around it or readjust the position and do away with the slide. I also replaced the junction box that had my breaker. I found a clear lid, snap one. Based on the GZ Link discussions I wanted an easier way to disconnect the breaker if I wasn't going to need it charging or would be idling for awhile.

 

[Knarfly]

I opted to redo the bedslide mount and used some extrusion attached to the seat rails instead of the wood platform to create a better support structure. I'll redo my under slide storage with some more kaizen foam and other recovery gear storage.

 

[Tniebli]

Knarfly, I'm finally getting around to copying your ceiling 80/20 rails. Did you need to drill out the existing ceiling rib holes to accept the 1/4-20 crossnuts? Based on my drill bit which fits best, the existing plastic tree holes appear to be 21/64 inch not 3/8. I've got a 2020 Transit.

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[Knarfly]

Knarfly, I'm finally getting around to copying your ceiling 80/20 rails. Did you need to drill out the existing ceiling rib holes to accept the 1/4-20 crossnuts? Based on my drill bit which fits best, the existing plastic tree holes appear to be 21/64 inch not 3/8. I've got a 2020 Transit.

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No, I didn't drill anything. The rivnuts I used fit, or required a light tap with a hammer to make it into the holes.

 

[Tniebli]

I just read that those holes got smaller starting in 2020. Guess I'll be drilling. Also, any reason not to install entire ceiling extrusion with L-brackets hanging down from the ceiling ribs? Just thinking it may be easier to install and remove when needed. The extrusion wouldn't need to be drilled and roll-in T nuts could be placed easier.

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[Knarfly]

I just read that those holes got smaller starting in 2020. Guess I'll be drilling. Also, any reason not to install entire ceiling extrusion with L-brackets hanging down from the ceiling ribs? Just thinking it may be easier to install and remove when needed. The extrusion wouldn't need to be drilled and roll-in T nuts could be placed easier.

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Interesting, I wonder why the change. I'd recommend a step bit if you're enlarging them. If you have to drill anyways I'd probably go up to 5/16-18 rivnuts to match the extrusion hardware.

You could probably use an L-bracket. It would have to be custom length if you were coming down through the headliner since you're compressing all of that as you tighten the extrusion up when you screw through it. Seems like it could be done though. If you removed it though I would hate to hit my head on the brackets hanging down.

 

[Tniebli]

Thanks for the hints.

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[Tniebli]

@Knarfly , since you've become my passenger van headliner expert, did you insulate the ceiling prior to re-installing the headliner?

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[Knarfly]

@Knarfly , since you've become my passenger van headliner expert, did you insulate the ceiling prior to re-installing the headliner?

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Yes I used 3M thinsulate everywhere I could under the headliner. Shoved it up above the driver/passenger seats too.

 

[Tniebli]

@Knarfly my thoughts too. But what about the 4 cross ribs? I filled the large spaces with thinsulate between the ribs. Now I wonder if I could do one huge sheet of it from front to back. Effectively, 2 layers between ribs and 1 on each rib. Of course I'd need to allow access to headliner mounting holes and magnets. Overkill? Too thick to allow headliner back up? Or use thinner Reflectix for just the ribs and call it good?

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[Knarfly]

@Knarfly my thoughts too. But what about the 4 cross ribs? I filled the large spaces with thinsulate between the ribs. Now I wonder if I could do one huge sheet of it from front to back. Effectively, 2 layers between ribs and 1 on each rib. Of course I'd need to allow access to headliner mounting holes and magnets. Overkill? Too thick to allow headliner back up? Or use thinner Reflectix for just the ribs and call it good?

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I didn't put anything on the ribs although I've seen some people that have. You could try, although once the thinsulate is compressed it isn't as effective and may push the headliner down a bit or make it harder to reinstall. If you try it let me know!

 

[RockyMountainMan]

I didn't put anything on the ribs although I've seen some people that have. You could try, although once the thinsulate is compressed it isn't as effective and may push the headliner down a bit or make it harder to reinstall. If you try it let me know!

Doing 80/20 in my passenger too, including on the ceiling. I recently installed Thinsulate in my ceiling and re-installed the headliner. Can't do one big sheet of Thinsulate - too tight at the ribs, and I re-used some of the plastic push-pins to snap the headliner back in , and a big sheet of Thinsulate would prevent this. I snaked Thinsulate into the ceiling ribs for a bit of extra insulation.

 

[w28]

I used separate sheets of thinsulate stuck to the roof between the ribs and then taped sheets of EZ Cool to the topsides of each headliner panel. I’m not sure the EZ cool is really doing anything, but I had some on hand. I could be imagining it, but to me it seems like the bottom sides of the headliner doesn’t get as warm now when sitting in the sun (with some ventilation).

 

[Knarfly]

I had never plugged the hole in the headliner from my cargo light after adding the maxxfan in the rear most rib, someone asked me about it a couple weeks ago so I designed a plate to fit it and included a 12v light and switch to connect to the old light wires. Took a few revisions as you end up with the rib right there under the hole which makes fitting a light and a switch a little tight.