[Knarfly]

thanks. What pull out did you use looks like it fits perfect

bedslide 1500, 4' x 6'

 

[Mike1086]

My initial build was a minimal bed that could be removed to replace seats back to stock. The longer I had the van, the more I realized:

• I did not convert it often, as my mattress was heavy and hard to store
• The space underneath the bed was too small and hard to use
• I became more comfortable veering from the idea of returning to stock

I stumbled upon Vandoit and really liked their builds so modeled my own after theirs. Their LIV model uses a manual hydraulic lift to raise and lower the bed, which I really liked. No need to run power, and additional clearance for bikes when needed. I was also lucky enough to find a bedslide on craigslist that fit perfectly. Their DO model allows for beds to fold out of the way and be reconfigured. I eventually arrived on a combination of the two. I started by modeling the side cabinets and bed base. Using 15 series extrusion, I also mocked it up using 2x2s to verify my CAD. The goal was to order cut to length and tapped so it could be assembled as a kit.

View attachment 145507 View attachment 145508
Initially I had planned to run lateral extrusion and U-bolt to the original seat mounts to create mounting points for the bedslide, but changed to using ¾” ply as a cheaper temporary setup. I removed some material and added some kaizen foam in non-structural areas to hide tools or other items.

View attachment 145509

I had a solid bed frame designed but worked on the idea to split it in the middle so each half could fold out of the way. I added an overhead rail with some supports to hold movable/removable shelves, a TV, lights, as well as the bed halves separately.

I replaced my heavy memory foam mattress with two tri-fold cot sized mattresses. I can configure a near-queen E-W, or set-up just half to be a cot size, although I will need to add an extension. There were some dimensions I changed on the fly and will need to adjust to have my halves fold down straighter, they can also fold up when the hydraulics are in the lower position. The intention was to allow the option for the kids to sleep below the bed on the bedslide when needed. When in Queen E-W position the two halves are supported by braces which get stored under the bedslide when not in use. The hydraulic has a 16" stroke.

View attachment 145510
View attachment 145511
View attachment 145513


For electrical I used a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 and Trigger six shooter controller.
I reached a usable state and progress slowed. Still to do is finish out the side cabinets for usable storage, finish wiring, probably add some sort of heater, and countless other things.

Also added:

• Upgraded jumper seat to quick release
• Replaced carpet with sheet vinyl
• Maxxair
• Thinsulate insulation in ceiling
• Custom Extrusion roof rack
• OVS 270 degree Awning
• Flatline Van Side Ladder
• Passenger side swivel
• B-Pillar Lagun Table

Cheers!

How did you install the sheet vinyl flooring? Assuming you had the carpet before

 

[Knarfly]

How did you install the sheet vinyl flooring? Assuming you had the carpet before

I took out all the seats, heater vents, and then a few trim pieces and just pulled the carpet off of the subfloor. Then used the old carpet as a template and cut the sheet vinyl. The floor was mostly still tacky but added some 3M90 spray and tried to smooth it on.

 

[AlwaysonTour]

This is a great build. Nice job! I have been planning on modeling my van off the VanDoit vans also. Do you have any pictures of how you secured the 80/20 to the ceiling? I am about to buy a Dyna lift kit. Do you recall what hose lengths you ordered? Looks like the kit with 20" throw and mounting hardware will be around a thousand bucks!

 

[Knarfly]

This is a great build. Nice job! I have been planning on modeling my van off the VanDoit vans also. Do you have any pictures of how you secured the 80/20 to the ceiling? I am about to buy a Dyna lift kit. Do you recall what hose lengths you ordered? Looks like the kit with 20" throw and mounting hardware will be around a thousand bucks!

Thanks! I installed a 1/4-20 rivnut into the roof rib where the gray plastic tree holds the headliner. This hole is in the same location on all the ribs. Then I measured and drilled holes on the extrusion. I've thought about offering some plans for the complete build to make it easier for others.

For my needs I decided the 16" was sufficient, I was able to get mine around $500. Tube length was standard 2x96" & 2x60" which was more than enough. I wouldn't buy their mounting brackets either as they're ridiculously expensive, although it is an odd mounting spacing you can easily make your own brackets with some aluminum plate or extra 8020 brackets, or try and drill straight through the extrusion. Someone else on here found an electric version with 25" stroke for around $900 which would be a good option as well.

 

[Knarfly]

Once all of the roof extrusion rails are in it can be cumbersome to remove them to get under the headliner. I had previously stubbed out some wiring for overhead lights so I wouldn't have to take it all apart, and I decided to add the lights to the base of my cabinets. I left about 18" of wire since my shelves can be positioned along the rail, I can move them and still have lights connected. I also have some color changing LED strips that I'm working on the best place for to give some fun lights if the kids sleep underneath on the cargo slide.

 

[Pilot-PJ]

Wow! This is just what I’m doing. I got a cargo slide from Craigslist and started my side cabinets. I have the dually so I had to raise the slide which gives me more room under but makes the slide higher.

After spending a weekend in the van with the kids started to figure out bunk beds. Looking for ceiling tracks got me to Vandoit and then to here.

I’ll skip the bed lift (at least for now) and work a “Camping Cube” out of lighter (& cheaper) 2020. The Cube will drop on the cargo slide and be my camp kitchen.

what size t-slot did you use for your upper cabinet build?

 

[takedown]

@Knarfly great looking build!

What did you for what appears to be black brackets to connect the bed frame to the rear door frame?

Thanks.

 

[Knarfly]

Wow! This is just what I’m doing. I got a cargo slide from Craigslist and started my side cabinets. I have the dually so I had to raise the slide which gives me more room under but makes the slide higher.

After spending a weekend in the van with the kids started to figure out bunk beds. Looking for ceiling tracks got me to Vandoit and then to here.

I’ll skip the bed lift (at least for now) and work a “Camping Cube” out of lighter (& cheaper) 2020. The Cube will drop on the cargo slide and be my camp kitchen.

what size t-slot did you use for your upper cabinet build?

Nice! Good luck with your build.

I have the early design of bunk beds for the kids in the front part of the van. I still have to see if it's feasible.

The upper cabinets are 10 series or 1". It's cheaper to order extrusion from Tnutz if you haven't bought it already.

 

[Knarfly]

@Knarfly great looking build!

What did you for what appears to be black brackets to connect the bed frame to the rear door frame?

Thanks.

I used some 2" square steel tubing, I believe, and cut it into L brackets because I had it on hand. I'll probably make some aluminum L brackets at some point in the future.

 

[jtx73]

I hope I am wrong but in the transit airbag video the airbags come down from the windows but the whole headliner is allowed to move out to make that

I am also doing a build in a passenger wagon and have concerns over airbag clearance. The Body Builders Layout Book indicates "DO NOT INSTALL ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS IN THE SHADED AREAS, NOR ALTER OR MODIFY THESE AREAS"

From the figure above I thought I had to keep all of my mods below the cupholders.

 

[gmoneda]

I am doing the same -below cupholders as I need to keep passenger capability.
Other folks see it differently or have additional info. There are two videos- the one with the headliner installed shows how much it comes out to let airbag go, That was my evidence for my choice.

I also don't want insurance to void a claim, if that ever were to happen.
I even added umbrella insurance after a recent experience.

 

[Mike1086]

Can you take some photos that show how the bed frame is connected to the van body? I have been trying to figure that out on the vandoit photos, looks like all the lower trim is still installed and the frame sits in of the trim but I can’t see where and how it gets secured to the van.

 

[Showtime3]

I am doing the same -below cupholders as I need to keep passenger capability.
Other folks see it differently or have additional info. There are two videos- the one with the headliner installed shows how much it comes out to let airbag go, That was my evidence for my choice.

I also don't want insurance to void a claim, if that ever were to happen.
I even added umbrella insurance after a recent experience.

No regular height gallery goes higher than the factory seat height. So I dont see an issue. The airbag fold down toward the window when it goes off.

 

[Knarfly]

Can you take some photos that show how the bed frame is connected to the van body? I have been trying to figure that out on the vandoit photos, looks like all the lower trim is still installed and the frame sits in of the trim but I can’t see where and how it gets secured to the van.

I'm not sure how Vandoit secures theirs. I used some rivnuts that I installed behind the trim just below the window sill in the factory trim, and the D-Ring threaded hole above the wheel well. These were installed for my first bed iteration.

 

[Tniebli]

I installed rivnuts into the ribs where the gray plastic headliner plug typically goes.

Knarfly, so you replaced the long plastic tree/plug with a rivnut. Then what? Did you drill holes through the 8020 for bolts to the rivnut? Or is there a better mounting for the 8020?

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[Tniebli]

Thanks! I installed a 1/4-20 rivnut into the roof rib where the gray plastic tree holds the headliner. This hole is in the same location on all the ribs. Then I measured and drilled holes on the extrusion. I've thought about offering some plans for the complete build to make it easier for others.

View attachment 148848

For my needs I decided the 16" was sufficient, I was able to get mine around $500. Tube length was standard 2x96" & 2x60" which was more than enough. I wouldn't buy their mounting brackets either as they're ridiculously expensive, although it is an odd mounting spacing you can easily make your own brackets with some aluminum plate or extra 8020 brackets, or try and drill straight through the extrusion. Someone else on here found an electric version with 25" stroke for around $900 which would be a good option as well.

Sorry, I scrolled further...let me rephrase my question. How does the new connection work? How long a bolt did you need? Is a spacer necessary between the ceiling rib and the headliner? How precise do the holes need to be in the 8020? Is a washer used behind the bolt head? Thanks for your patience!

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[Knarfly]

Sorry, I scrolled further...let me rephrase my question. How does the new connection work? How long a bolt did you need? Is a spacer necessary between the ceiling rib and the headliner? How precise do the holes need to be in the 8020? Is a washer used behind the bolt head? Thanks for your patience!

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There are two ways to do it. I drilled a 1/4" thru hole, or "access hole". I then slid the head of the bolt under the ceiling side of the extrusion, slid it to align with the roof hole, and then use your hex screw driver from the underside to tighten through the access hole. This allows the bottom facing T-Track to not have any stop points, but is harder to get the track up...like a real pain by yourself. I used a 2-1/2" long bolt as it needs to reach the rib before it compresses the headliner foam.

You can also drill a thru hole and counter bore the bottom side for the head of the bolt, and slide the bolt in from the bottom and tighten. I'd probably do this way if I redid it.

I didn't use a spacer, but you are compressing the foam standoff behind the headliner. The T-Track will be at a slight angle, but the cross supports help to pull it straight. Holes need to be precise to align all the ribs. Let me know if that makes sense.

 

[Tniebli]

Thanks that makes sense!

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[Tniebli]

You didn't keep those measurements around, did you?

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