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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to add a Lagun mount to my passenger B pillar. I bought a pre-made plate from a forum member with the hope it would be an exact bolt-up solution. But, to my surprise there were no predrilled holes for the plate in my Low Roof Wagon.

My question. I'm going to mount the plate directly to the exposed and painted pillar. Would you mount the plate using a self tapping screw or go with a rivnut? Since I have a factory floor, the plate actually slides right between the floor and the pillar for a really tight fit. So I think I'm going to only go with two holes.

I also don't own a rivnut tool and don't really see myself using it for much other than this application, so is it worth going rivnut vs. self tapping? Thanks in advance!!
 

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RivNuts for sure. The biggest challenge could be drilling holes in the B pillar as I think these are Boron Steel which for me at least was a nightmare to drill.

You should never use self-tapping screws in sheet steel to support anything more than cloth trim, bits of plastic and things like speaker guards. Self-tappers back out over time with vibration and heat cycling or can fail with shock loads. Everything added to the inside of a vehicle will be subject to vehicle vibration, 6 axes of acceleration and shock loads. Anything coming loose can become a meat grinder in an accident or even an emergency stop.

Tragically, some neighborhood kids were killed by their snowboards when the SUV they were in rolled over in the snow. The vehicle was largely intact, airbags and seatbelts all worked but the snowboards flew around inside.
 

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self tapping screws seem to wallow out after a while. I'd go with a rivnut. You don't need a special tool, just a bolt, nut, and wrench to set it in place.
 
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2021 W2X T350 148" High Roof, EcoB, AWD, Avalanche Grey, 11/20 order 8/21 delivery
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No holes at all in the b pillar? Some of mine had round tape covers over holes with untapped welded steel rings. I just tapped them to use bolts.
 

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My van came with self tappers through the floor that are holding down E-track and a plywood floor. I opted not to remove them, floor is still solid after 110k miles.

YMMV
Archimedes effects are not at work with a floor resting on the ground. That Lagun is a decent lever operating on the bolts holding it in.
 

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Do you have a d-ring bolt hole there? If so, that's super useful - though it would probably require a larger plate if you got the small-ish ones someone was making here.

If you gotta drill your own holes - or there are holes that can't be tapped - then rivnuts or plusnuts. As @surly Bill points out, you don't have to get the tool.

Thinking of how a self-tapper would fare in the boron... you'd end up with not much thread on the screw / bolt. Maybe better if you tapped the boron; but still not ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks gents. I just bought a cheap rivnut kit on Amazon.

I realized this thread is useless without pictures. Here's what I have:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Automotive design Bumper

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Fixture Fender

Fixture Automotive tire Vehicle door Automotive design Automotive exterior

Fixture Automotive exterior Tints and shades Gas Wood

Automotive lighting Tire Automotive tire Hood Automotive tail & brake light

Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Trunk Fixture


Automotive tire Trunk Motor vehicle Tire Bumper


After work today I was able to remove several trim pieces to expose the bottom of the pillar. I do have a pre-drilled hole in the bottom which I'm assuming I can add a rivnut to. I don't see anything pre-threaded in that whole (the one at the bottom with no sticker covering it.) The outboard area along the B-Pillar itself has no exposed holes, so I am pretty certain I will need to add rivnuts to the pillar. At your recommendations I got a cobalt speed bit and a package of rivnuts. I think since the trim is now removed I might as well anchor into the pillar with all three bolts. The two pillar locations can take a rivnut without interfering with anything behind them from what I can tell.

Any other words of wisdom? Would you put anything (like felt) on the back of the plate so it's not metal on metal? Once this is mounted I'm going to have to perform surgery so I can re-install my trim pieces.
 

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Pics help. I'd be tempted to tap threads in the two lower holes, then drill the plate for the hole covered by the tape disc. Then you're only drilling one hole in boron steel for the top of the plate.

Those untapped holes have welded collars for factory installed self-tapping bolts. The collars change the grip area and length and may prove difficulty for rivnuts or plusnuts. Rivnuts expand their ribs at the sheet metal hole edge and plus nuts want a flat rear face to flare out for friction. If those holes have collars it may not work as planned. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pics help. I'd be tempted to tap threads in the two lower holes, then drill the plate for the hole covered by the tape disc. Then you're only drilling one hole in boron steel for the top of the plate.

Those untapped holes have welded collars for factory installed self-tapping bolts. The collars change the grip area and length and may prove difficulty for rivnuts or plusnuts. Rivnuts expand their ribs at the sheet metal hole edge and plus nuts want a flat rear face to flare out for friction. If those holes have collars it may not work as planned. Good luck.
I think the hole I exposed has a collar behind it. I was worried a rivnut might not work based on that. I've never tapped a threads for a hole like this. Any thoughts or advice? Wondering if the BEMM might talk about this. I do like your idea of using the bottom two holes and then only drilling one hole up top. I could use the very top hole with a rivnut and not get close to the seatbelt tensioner.
 

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The d-ring hole is for an odd sized 11.5 mm bolt, which happens to be equal in size to 7/16 bolts that are easily sourced. Ytube should have a tapping clip. If the other hole under the tape is small, its probably for a 6 mm bolt. That size collar can be tapped for 1/4 - 20. Or you could stay with metric threads. I just don't have a metric tap and die set. Good luck.
 

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The plate im pretty sure is designed to sit on the plastic threshold, so make sure you have that in place for right height. and yes the bottom hole can be tapped with 7/16" this is what it uses because its not actually some random 11.5 mm bolt....
 

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The plate im pretty sure is designed to sit on the plastic threshold, so make sure you have that in place for right height. and yes the bottom hole can be tapped with 7/16" this is what it uses because its not actually some random 11.5 mm bolt....
My dealer parts guy told me it was an all metric vehicle and the bolt specs were 11.5 mm dia, 1.25 pitch. (The price quoted for one would have paid for a box of 100.) Seems that Ford wrote a metric spec for 7/16 bolt in a metric vehicle.
 

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My dealer parts guy told me it was an all metric vehicle and the bolt specs were 11.5 mm dia, 1.25 pitch. (The price quoted for one would have paid for a box of 100.) Seems that Ford wrote a metric spec for 7/16 bolt in a metric vehicle.
It is bizarre, but I've checked the threads various ways. There was some hypothesis that the 7/16" size bolt was the rated size for seatbelts? who knows. lol. We have been working on a 2006 dodge truck, i'm having a real hard time convincing my buddy its ALL metric, lol
 

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I think it was the consensus, with some links as proof, that the 7/16 was the universal seatbelt mount size for some reason, and is found on all vehicles, both SAE and Metric.
THAT is the only SAE thread pitch on the Transit. And is almost interchangeable with a particular metric size.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice big plate. You're good. Big bolt on the bottom d-ring hole, rivnut the top two.
On your top screws, what size rivnut did you use 1/4-20?
 

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On your top screws, what size rivnut did you use 1/4-20?
All metrics for us. M6 on those top ones. Pretty much same size as 1/4"

WRT the d-ring... FFS, let's not start that argument again. If you want to just order one that works, this one or this one will work. But let's not go back to the metric / SAE argument... that one works, even if it's technically metric and simply harder to find. :rolleyes:
 

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