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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any recommendations for a socket that doesn't illuminate and has a USB-C port? Basically, this without the glowing led.

I found this one, but it seems like a good idea to have at least one USB-C port in the van. Or would the QC3.0 paired with a cable that has USB-C on one end (what we use now) be just/almost as good?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not opposed to that option and do plan on having at least one regular 12v socket, but I couldn't find an adapter that doesn't illuminate either....although I didn't look that hard.
 

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Have you considered just going to a normal cig lighter and running a normal car adapter?

Opens your options immensely, and is way more future proof.

And then you can run this, and I'm sure there are others: https://www.amazon.com/Syncwire-Charger-Adapter-Cigarette-Compatible/dp/B08W1SVT1L/
Unfortunately, that type will nearly always over heat. Power electronics always need a thermal path and that is really difficult with a polymer based 12 volt socket like are in most vehicles.
 

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Any recommendations for a socket that doesn't illuminate and has a USB-C port? Basically, this without the glowing led.

I found this one, but it seems like a good idea to have at least one USB-C port in the van. Or would the QC3.0 paired with a cable that has USB-C on one end (what we use now) be just/almost as good?
It depends on what you're charging. If it's just a smartphone, cheaper QC 3.0 devices like the one you listed are fine.

But if you want to use and charge a laptop at the same time, while also charging other devices, then you need the higher power of PD 3.0 charger (assuming your laptop is new enough to support PD 3.0). A good PD charger will also have extra QC 3.0 ports.

I've had very good success with this device. A 10ft usb-c to usb-c cable goes to my Surface Pro for PD 3.0 charging, which I also use for my Galaxy S20+ (supports PD 3.0 and QC 3.0). Technically QC 3.0 would be slightly faster for my phone, but it's all so fast I don't mind the slight difference. Then a usb-a to usb-c cable charges my wireless earbuds via QC3.0, and another usb-a to usb-micro cable charges my older devices. Sometimes I use the usb-a to usb-c to charge my phone w/QC 3.0 while the usb-c to usb-c is charging the Surface w/PD 3.0. It all works great.

I power the device from a stable 13.8V DC converter (48 V > 13.8V powers all of my "12V" devices), and it's worked like a champ for years with that setup. I also wired a small on/off switch to it, so I can turn the device off completely when not in use for months at a time (winterizing). It only has a tiny green LED on it that's so small I don't even bother to cover it up when using the van, although I do have the device installed in a low position where it wouldn't bother me anyways. The long cables bring the power up to standing/sitting height.

It's possible it may not work as well with the varying voltages of the van's starter batter / alternator, although it's supposed to be designed to handle that. I only have a vague memory of a guy who claimed his friend had problems with one, but he offered no details on how his friend installed it. Lots of sketchy DIY electrical setups out there.

Cheers.
 

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R3U - 148', HR, AWD, Cargo, EcoBoost, Power Sliding Door, Adaptive Cruise (Ordered May 3rd, VIN Aug
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I searched and searched and thought i had found one

Unfortunately it does light up but I have to say its not "that bad".

I also have the one in your link above. Also not that bad once lit although I wouldn't want it right in front of my face. Its not the bright blue you usually see
 

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The constant current draw of an unused device just bugs me. I like the one you found for phone charging. If you are looking to run a laptop you'll need more like 65W on the USB C. I found this one that looks like it has a tactile on/off switch to turn off the LED. Hopefully that kills everything when not in use.
 

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R3U - 148', HR, AWD, Cargo, EcoBoost, Power Sliding Door, Adaptive Cruise (Ordered May 3rd, VIN Aug
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The constant current draw of an unused device just bugs me. I like the one you found for phone charging. If you are looking to run a laptop you'll need more like 65W on the USB C. I found this one that looks like it has a tactile on/off switch to turn off the LED. Hopefully that kills everything when not in use.
awesome - thanks for sharing!
 

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2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
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Have you considered just going to a normal cig lighter and running a normal car adapter?

Opens your options immensely, and is way more future proof.

And then you can run this, and I'm sure there are others: https://www.amazon.com/Syncwire-Charger-Adapter-Cigarette-Compatible/dp/B08W1SVT1L/
Having a couple different brands of phones the last few years in the family, can confirm that not all adapters like all phones equally and using the cig-plug ones opens options. Obviously, iPhones like their own stuff; but that is sometimes true with the Samsung devices as well; and our OnePlus devices charge WAY faster with their "approved" chargers than the best PD charger. Those various chargers can be 12VDC or 120VAC; but over the last few years, a wire-in solution has yet to be superior. That all may change if more phone manufacturers move to PD on USB-C, but... not yet.

An additional option is to incorporate into 120VAC outlets as well. We've got a couple of those in use.

But we removed the hard-wired USB and USB-C 12VDC devices and went back to cig adapters (though the nicer Blue Sea ones) to use brand-name chargers to suit whomever was near that outlet.
 

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Interesting, I can't ever say I've had that issue.

Are those outlets that are in the same shape performing any better?
That is a good question.

I build mostly 24 and 48 volt based systems and for USB 2 ports use the blue sea dual voltage ports. For the 48 volt systems I run them off of the 12 volt DC converter - similar to @Van Gogh .

The USB 2 ports have been bullet proof. In 2021 I tried a few round style on my test stand so that I could switch over and at least then, none passed.

I really wish that I could find some dual 24 / 48 volt versions but for now I am still just reading threads like this on various forums and sometimes doing a search on various supplier options.

At this point, for customer that want a really solid high speed USB charging setup, I am having them buy 120 vac based units. Price isn't really an issue for me and I can even make the hole larger, but I am really hesitant to put something on my Power Systems that isn't absolutely solid. I don't want to put all the effort into providing a great product for customers and then have it messed up by a USB port.
 

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I wonder how difficult it would be to pop that open and cut the wire to the LED?
Anything that is assembled can be disassembled. Might take superglue to put it back together, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
An additional option is to incorporate into 120VAC outlets as well. We've got a couple of those in use.

But we removed the hard-wired USB and USB-C 12VDC devices and went back to cig adapters (though the nicer Blue Sea ones) to use brand-name chargers to suit whomever was near that outlet.
I hadn't considered the 120VAC outlets as an option, so thanks for pointing that out. I noticed Freedom Vans seems to go that route on some of their builds, like this one, and they pair it with a regular 12V socket. I'm thinking about doing the same, at least for the two sets of outlets I plan to install in the front half of the van. Would the main disadvantage be the efficiency loss when converting from DC to AC?
 

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I hadn't considered the 120VAC outlets as an option, so thanks for pointing that out. I noticed Freedom Vans seems to go that route on some of their builds, like this one, and they pair it with a regular 12V socket. I'm thinking about doing the same, at least for the two sets of outlets I plan to install in the front half of the van. Would the main disadvantage be the efficiency loss when converting from DC to AC?
Sure. But we never turn off the inverter. So... the solar restores all that "wasted" overhead for a day's power in a few minutes of sunlight and everything is treated like you're at home with a realistic expectation of "power outlets just work, right?" 🤷‍♀️
 

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I have had poor luck with the small round "USB-C + USB-A" sockets from Amazon. The unit I got claimed to be 60W but if I plug my Steam Deck into the USB-C it gives me a "slow charger" notification. It does charge, but not at a high enough rate to use the device without running the battery down. So that's less than ~28W actual power delivered via USB-C, probably a lot less.

Did I just buy the wrong thing? These PD units seem to claim 65W from a single PD port.
 
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