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I guess it just depends how long the 1260s are in Bulk charge, And ambient temps.
I am not going to push it, A single 1260 has done what I wanted it to do for four years now.
With two 100Ah Battleborn's now, 100A is ideal.

No point with lead though.
 

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No point with lead though.
I do not know, my Magnum MS2012 stays in 100 amp Bulk charge for 20 to 25 minutes charging three Agm.
I have the input amps turned down so it will not pop a breaker on a 20 amp 120 volt outlet, So the Bulk Charge amps may be even higher on the recommended 120 volt 30 amp outlet.
The battery Temperature Probe may have something to do with the Bulk Charge length of time as well.
 

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I want to now connect my CCP to a Kisae battery to battery charger...just found out I also need to install an ignition on switch ala the Morey install, so as to not drain the starter battery. Ugh.

More importantly, in connecting the Kisae DC-DC Charger...I need a negative terminal off the charger to complete the circuit...and I don't see anybody talking very much about how to connect the negative side...it seems like maybe people are just connecting to ground, and using the chassis as a massive negative terminal for anything that has a long negative run?! I'm new to DC...Am I reading them all correctly/is that safe?!
 

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I have always ran dedicated + and -wires for higer amperage devices rather than use chassis ground. I know that using Chassis ground close to what you are installing can save some installation time and money. My reasoning to run a dedicated ground is the possbility of creating ground loops or inducing noise from what you are installing back into the rest of the vehicle. Modern CAN Based vehicles tend to be designed better to tolerate and filter induced signals via the chassis grounds. OTOH, A dedicated ground that runs as close as possible to the battery main ground terminal is one less thing that can go wrong over time.
 

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I want to now connect my CCP to a Kisae battery to battery charger...just found out I also need to install an ignition on switch ala the Morey install, so as to not drain the starter battery. Ugh.

More importantly, in connecting the Kisae DC-DC Charger...I need a negative terminal off the charger to complete the circuit...and I don't see anybody talking very much about how to connect the negative side...it seems like maybe people are just connecting to ground, and using the chassis as a massive negative terminal for anything that has a long negative run?! I'm new to DC...Am I reading them all correctly/is that safe?!
My reply is over in the other thread you posted this question to this morning. Grounding Location behind Passenger Seat


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I have always ran dedicated + and -wires for higer amperage devices rather than use chassis ground. I know that using Chassis ground close to what you are installing can save some installation time and money. My reasoning to run a dedicated ground is the possbility of creating ground loops or inducing noise from what you are installing back into the rest of the vehicle. Modern CAN Based vehicles tend to be designed better to tolerate and filter induced signals via the chassis grounds. OTOH, A dedicated ground that runs as close as possible to the battery main ground terminal is one less thing that can go wrong over time.
Thanks...I just ran into some basic explanations over on 12 Volt electrical systems for vans – the basics (see the section on How to link everything together), that describes how people often use the chassis as a negative terminal, which is what I gathered from some other posts was happening...I just had never even considered that as an option...I just assumed everybody would always have dedicated circuits for most devices, and like you mention in your post, my mind was racing with all of the possible unintended possibilities of having the chassis be a common negative, especially with a high volume/flow connection like the B2B charger. I'm still a little boggled by the idea of trying to think through ways that some circuits would be interconnected in ways that I might not want as I'm running the Alternator charger, Solar charger, Shore power, Inverter/ac charger, Transformers, etc...

I already have a lot of 2GA negative colored wire...I'm inclined to just add that run from the Driver wheel well to the Driver's seat, just to pair it with the positive...If I hadn't already bought that run, maybe I would feel differently, but with 50A running through it, something about trying to keep that load a little more dedicated (they'll still be on the true ground line with everything else, just in case something goes wrong AND all the fuses fail at the same time), gives me (as a newbie to this stuff) a little more peace of mind.

About the CCP being "always on" - Has anyone devised a truly simple way (I've seen the Moray pigtail mod with a relay) to make the CCP tied to the ignition?
 

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If you trace the heavy wire from the vehicle battery terminal it will go to a body grounding point within a foot or two.


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Ok...so I'm probably being a little overly anxious about this then? Maybe I should just take it to one of the D-Ring post near the wheel well s and be done with it...it just seems weird to me that the chassis can be a negative for all my DC wires...and a ground for my AC too...and that those two things could easily coexist without any issues....makes me nervous due to my ignorance of how these things "really" work IRL.
 

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Ok...so I'm probably being a little overly anxious about this then? Maybe I should just take it to one of the D-Ring post near the wheel well s and be done with it...it just seems weird to me that the chassis can be a negative for all my DC wires...and a ground for my AC too...and that those two things could easily coexist without any issues....makes me nervous due to my ignorance of how these things "really" work IRL.
I just have that one grounding point with a big cable to my negative bus bar. That supplies negative for chargers as well as my 12v fuse and distribution panel. The wire pairs from that panel carry positive and negative to all of the appliances and lights.


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About the CCP being "always on" - Has anyone devised a truly simple way to make the CCP tied to the ignition?
I used one of the user defined switches to start my vehicle powered inverter. Inverter is powered by the CCP terminals. Did not want the inverter to be using power when the engine was trying to start. User defined switches are powered when key is in the accessary position and when the engine is running on a 2015 Transit. The time delay keeps the inverter from starting when you pass through the accessory key position.
 
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