I do not know, my Magnum MS2012 stays in 100 amp Bulk charge for 20 to 25 minutes charging three Agm.No point with lead though.
My reply is over in the other thread you posted this question to this morning. Grounding Location behind Passenger SeatI want to now connect my CCP to a Kisae battery to battery charger...just found out I also need to install an ignition on switch ala the Morey install, so as to not drain the starter battery. Ugh.
More importantly, in connecting the Kisae DC-DC Charger...I need a negative terminal off the charger to complete the circuit...and I don't see anybody talking very much about how to connect the negative side...it seems like maybe people are just connecting to ground, and using the chassis as a massive negative terminal for anything that has a long negative run?! I'm new to DC...Am I reading them all correctly/is that safe?!
Thanks...I just ran into some basic explanations over on 12 Volt electrical systems for vans – the basics (see the section on How to link everything together), that describes how people often use the chassis as a negative terminal, which is what I gathered from some other posts was happening...I just had never even considered that as an option...I just assumed everybody would always have dedicated circuits for most devices, and like you mention in your post, my mind was racing with all of the possible unintended possibilities of having the chassis be a common negative, especially with a high volume/flow connection like the B2B charger. I'm still a little boggled by the idea of trying to think through ways that some circuits would be interconnected in ways that I might not want as I'm running the Alternator charger, Solar charger, Shore power, Inverter/ac charger, Transformers, etc...I have always ran dedicated + and -wires for higer amperage devices rather than use chassis ground. I know that using Chassis ground close to what you are installing can save some installation time and money. My reasoning to run a dedicated ground is the possbility of creating ground loops or inducing noise from what you are installing back into the rest of the vehicle. Modern CAN Based vehicles tend to be designed better to tolerate and filter induced signals via the chassis grounds. OTOH, A dedicated ground that runs as close as possible to the battery main ground terminal is one less thing that can go wrong over time.
Ok...so I'm probably being a little overly anxious about this then? Maybe I should just take it to one of the D-Ring post near the wheel well s and be done with it...it just seems weird to me that the chassis can be a negative for all my DC wires...and a ground for my AC too...and that those two things could easily coexist without any issues....makes me nervous due to my ignorance of how these things "really" work IRL.If you trace the heavy wire from the vehicle battery terminal it will go to a body grounding point within a foot or two.
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I just have that one grounding point with a big cable to my negative bus bar. That supplies negative for chargers as well as my 12v fuse and distribution panel. The wire pairs from that panel carry positive and negative to all of the appliances and lights.Ok...so I'm probably being a little overly anxious about this then? Maybe I should just take it to one of the D-Ring post near the wheel well s and be done with it...it just seems weird to me that the chassis can be a negative for all my DC wires...and a ground for my AC too...and that those two things could easily coexist without any issues....makes me nervous due to my ignorance of how these things "really" work IRL.
I used one of the user defined switches to start my vehicle powered inverter. Inverter is powered by the CCP terminals. Did not want the inverter to be using power when the engine was trying to start. User defined switches are powered when key is in the accessary position and when the engine is running on a 2015 Transit. The time delay keeps the inverter from starting when you pass through the accessory key position.About the CCP being "always on" - Has anyone devised a truly simple way to make the CCP tied to the ignition?