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I also had a great deal of trouble getting to the CCP 60 amp fuse, but I finally got the plastic cover off the fuse box under the driver's seat. (That was the hardest part for me. After tearing a fingernail trying to release the six plastic locking tabs, I finally got them loose using a pocket knife. If I had to do it again I'd bend a piece of metal into an L-shape to get under the tabs and pry them up.) I decided to replace the blown fuse with a copper strip and put a fuse in a fuse holder on the CCP lug. Now the fuse can be easily replaced if/when it blows. Hopefully I'll never have to get back into that fuse box again.
 

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Fuse holder

Hi,
Sounds like a good idea. Just make sure the 60 amp stud is well insulated since it is hot and un fused.
It the fuse holder the type that connects right to the stud?

T A
 

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Hi,
Sounds like a good idea. Just make sure the 60 amp stud is well insulated since it is hot and un fused.
It the fuse holder the type that connects right to the stud?

T A
There is a 4" long piece of 4 gauge wire between the stud and the fuse holder, but no exposed terminals to be accidentally shorted.
 

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I also had a great deal of trouble getting to the CCP 60 amp fuse, but I finally got the plastic cover off the fuse box under the driver's seat. (That was the hardest part for me. After tearing a fingernail trying to release the six plastic locking tabs, I finally got them loose using a pocket knife.

Come now! You expect us to believe a little plastic cover made you break a fingernail? >:D


http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/ford-transit-general-discussion/14810-qwerks-you-don-t-like-aout-your-transit-59.html#post478417
 
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Oh boy, did you ever nail it (pun intended)!! You did a much better job of describing the poor design than I ever could. I hate to admit I chuckled as I read your post. Thanks for the link. That's one thread I haven't read - intentionally - because I didn't want to know all of the things wrong with my new van.
 

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There is a 4" long piece of 4 gauge wire between the stud and the fuse holder, but no exposed terminals to be accidentally shorted.
Could you post a picture of what you did?
It sounds quicker and perhaps easier than discussed earlier in the thread with rerouting to a surface mount circuit breaker.
 

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Could you post a picture of what you did?
It sounds quicker and perhaps easier than discussed earlier in the thread with rerouting to a surface mount circuit breaker.
I wish I had taken a picture or two when I had the CCP open, but I hope I never have to get in there again. Basically, all I did was remove the blown factory installed 60A mini-ANL fuse and then cut a piece of copper (from a copper water pipe ) to the same width (after hammering it flat) and length as the fuse. I drilled holes the same size and spacing as the fuse and put the copper piece where the fuse had been and reinstalled the screws. Now I have a non-fused CCP. From the CCP I ran a 4" long piece of 4 guage wire to a 60A mini-ANL fuse in a fuse holder (no exposed terminals to short out) and from there to my 600 watt inverter. I would not recommend this unless you already have a factory installed fuse that has blown and has to be replaced. You do NOT want to get under the seat and pull out the battery and open up the fuse box and CCP cover unless you absolutely have to.

BTW there is an excellent video of accessing the CCP fuse(s) at cargovanconversion.com
 

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I'm very intrigued by this mod, but I'm still confused/not quite sure about some aspects of what this is actually doing:

1) Does this just give you a second 60A CCP access point for other hookups, or does this (via whatever that bent metal is connected to out of sight) somehow effectively add another 60A to the previously existing CCP Circuit that was already hot?

2) The kit you bought...I assume it was nothing more than the 60A fuse?

3) On the third to last step you reference getting the bent metal piece over the top, far left lug...Is that piece just floating around in the CCP (and why you had to move everything to the right a bit?)? It seems a tad strange to me that they'd have that floating around close to but disconnected from that stud.

4) For single starting battery setups, and the stock 150A fuse...is there any particular concern about opening up an additional 60A of potential draw on the system? Is it hard on the alternator, or does the Alternator have enough fail-safes to not get damaged or overheat from heavy use?

5)Has anybody tested this with something like the KISAE DMT1250 Abso 50A DC-DC Battery Charger or the Renogy DCC50S...to see if it causes anything unexpected in terms of Alternator output or behavior when attached a DC-DC Battery Charger?
 

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If I recall there is a bus bar inside the seat base that has space for 3 fuses, 60a each

This is what is included in the CCP kit:
138723


This is what it is like after being installed:
138725


This is information about the CCP from the BEMM:
138724
 

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A 150 Amp Alternator will only support a Single 60 amp fuse, The Bemm says a 30 Amp maximum can be drawn from the 150 Amp Alternator.
 

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[ QUOTE="ranxerox, post: 1060062, member: 65865"]
A 150 Amp Alternator will only support a Single 60 amp fuse, The Bemm says a 30 Amp maximum can be drawn from the 150 Amp Alternator.
[/QUOTE]
I have a 2020 and there are only 2 terminals - one is like in the pic but the other is much thinner. I am supposed to have 2 batteries but need to check as other things on my window sticker were not there???
 

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I have a 2020 and there are only 2 terminals - one is like in the pic but the other is much thinner. I am supposed to have 2 batteries but need to check as other things on my window sticker were not there???
This thread is about the 2015 to 2019 model years, The 2020 is discussed in other threads.
 

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A 150 Amp Alternator will only support a Single 60 amp fuse, The Bemm says a 30 Amp maximum can be drawn from the 150 Amp Alternator.
At idle I'd agree. At driving speed upwards of 100A is available even with the A/C on.

Unless I'm mistaken and I have the HD alternator, but I doubt it. Is there a quick/simple way to tell?
 

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At idle I'd agree. At driving speed upwards of 100A is available even with the A/C on.

Unless I'm mistaken and I have the HD alternator, but I doubt it. Is there a quick/simple way to tell?
There are one or more photo's here somewhere that show a decal on the frame of the alternator listing the output in amps. The photo was taken with the alternator still on the engine so you might be able to see it if you look.

The 150 amp rated Alternator output is when the Ambient Temperature is at 32 degree's F. according to the output graphs. At 90 degree's F. Ambient it is closer to 100 amps. 50 Amps to 70 amps to run everything in the Transit leaves about a 30 amp surplus for aftermarket equipment.
 

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Unless I'm mistaken and I have the HD alternator, but I doubt it. Is there a quick/simple way to tell?
Dual AC vans like wagons have the HD alternator, For cargo vans it would be listed as an option on the window sticker. If you contort your arm just right, it is possible to take a photo of the sticker on or alternator itself like @ranxerox said..
138754
 

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There are one or more photo's here somewhere that show a decal on the frame of the alternator listing the output in amps. The photo was taken with the alternator still on the engine so you might be able to see it if you look.

The 150 amp rated Alternator output is when the Ambient Temperature is at 32 degree's F. according to the output graphs. At 90 degree's F. Ambient it is closer to 100 amps. 50 Amps to 70 amps to run everything in the Transit leaves about a 30 amp surplus for aftermarket equipment.

Thanks, I'll try to have a peek when I'm under the hood next. For now I'm basing my 150A assumption on having only one CCP when I got it.

I'll have to post some recent graphs showing ~100A going into two BB1260s while driving at near 30°C outside temp. with A/C on and fan on high.

I won't be too surprised if I end up having to replace it sooner than some but so far I'm convinced it does a decent job protecting itself.
 
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@Sparky961 Both my 2015 wagons with HD alternators came with only one CCP terminal and I added the kit.
My almost identical 2018 wagon came with 3 terminals.

From the 2018 BEMM:
138764
 

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@Sparky961 Both my 2015 wagons with HD alternators came with only one CCP terminal and I added the kit.
My almost identical 2018 wagon came with 3 terminals.
Interesting. I was always under the impression you could tell by the CCPs.

Guess I better check under the hood sooner.

At this point I'm more interested in what it delivers in use than what it's rated for. If I kill it then I'll replace it. Maybe even with something bigger or some aftermarket combo. So far there's no indication that's the trajectory, but I'm prepared to accept any outcome.
 
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138758


Confirmed, assuming that's what the "150" on the sticker means.
 
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Thanks, I'll try to have a peek when I'm under the hood next. For now I'm basing my 150A assumption on having only one CCP when I got it.

I'll have to post some recent graphs showing ~100A going into two BB1260s while driving at near 30°C outside temp. with A/C on and fan on high.

I won't be too surprised if I end up having to replace it sooner than some but so far I'm convinced it does a decent job protecting itself.
I guess it just depends how long the 1260s are in Bulk charge, And ambient temps.
I am not going to push it, A single 1260 has done what I wanted it to do for four years now.
 
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