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Discussion Starter #21
This thread on the CCPs has me wondering again about acceptable (engine-off) draw-down on the double batteries which, although they may be AGM, are nevertheless starter batteries and - as I understand it - prefer an existence where they are fully or nearly fully charged.

I should like to run my fridge off the CCPs rather than from the switched 12-volt outlets (it draws less than 2 amps, and runs about a quarter of the time), but I have no idea of the margin of safety I'd have.

In members' personal experience, what's a reasonably safe limit for drawing down on those AGM starter batteries? By "reasonably safe," I mean that:

1) you can draw down to that level fairly frequently without harming the batteries;
2) there's still plenty of charge left to start the vehicle?

Regards,
EJB
Have no expertise on this, just common sense.

First, I think, it depends on the type of engine. A diesel may need more battery power under certain circumstances.
Your correct, they are starter batteries and as such the answer should be NO. But I don't know, whether AGM's have the same 'starter' or 'deep-cycle' properties as flooded batteries have.
At the very least you should put a meter in between, but common sense tells me that you shouldn't take the risk and not use them as such.

Van Williams
 

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This thread on the CCPs has me wondering again about acceptable (engine-off) draw-down on the double batteries which, although they may be AGM, are nevertheless starter batteries and - as I understand it - prefer an existence where they are fully or nearly fully charged.

I should like to run my fridge off the CCPs rather than from the switched 12-volt outlets (it draws less than 2 amps, and runs about a quarter of the time), but I have no idea of the margin of safety I'd have.

In members' personal experience, what's a reasonably safe limit for drawing down on those AGM starter batteries? By "reasonably safe," I mean that:

1) you can draw down to that level fairly frequently without harming the batteries;
2) there's still plenty of charge left to start the vehicle?

Regards,
EJB
I prefer to look at the dual AGMs according to their intended purpose. The dual bank in the gas models was designed by Ford as an option to provide customers with a 12v power tap for various trades requirements.
As a dual set, they provide plenty of CCAs, and 144ahs.

They are also warrantied to be used by folks who may not pay as much attention as I do to how much or how often they are drawn down.

In my application I expect them to last many years. I rarely see the resting voltage (first thing in the morning before startup) drop below 12.5v, or about 80% SOC. However, I would not feel unduly concerned to draw them down to 50% soc (12.2v) if I needed to. This might not be ideal, but neither would it cause me to lose any sleep.

I could be wrong on this, but I am not worried about my dual batteries at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
You're probably correct. But you keep a close eye on it and that's required.

Van Williams
 

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I cannot help you with that, may be someone else here can.
"ANL" is the fuse shape/design. The ones in the pictures you posted had bolt-holes on both ends that would require you to remove the nuts to take it out, but a standard ANL fuse will allow you to only loosen the bolts. Here's an amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-MANL60-Mini-Fuses/dp/B000P7AQR0

I'd bet you could buy a couple ANL fuses and nuts at your local hardware store instead of going to Ford, but either way it's not expensive.
 

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There are several threads about this subject and a photo here and there, so when I did the CCP upgrade this weekend, I documented everything in great detail, as I do with every part of the conversion.
You can view the video and lots of photos here or download it as a PDF-file.

Van Williams
Van- I checked these all out when you started this thread, and finally added the CCPs to our wagon. I'm sure I could have made it through the installation on my own, but instead I grabbed my tablet and pulled up the pix to go through them step by step (not my normal modus operandi).

Thanks! They were real helpful 0:)

I don't expect to need to draw so much power, yet for the $7 kit, it is worth doing just in case, and it was helpful to get familiar with the battery setup. In the process, I discovered that the 350 Wagons have the 250 A alternator, so now I'm contemplating a second battery so there is never any question about drawing power for my occasional power needs.

fwiw I also found that with the manual seat there is no need to remove it, just slide all the way forward and work from the back. :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Great to have your feedback! And glad to know that I could help someone, even in such a small way.
Enjoy your van.

Van Williams
 

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"ANL" is the fuse shape/design. The ones in the pictures you posted had bolt-holes on both ends that would require you to remove the nuts to take it out, but a standard ANL fuse will allow you to only loosen the bolts. Here's an amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-MANL60-Mini-Fuses/dp/B000P7AQR0

I'd bet you could buy a couple ANL fuses and nuts at your local hardware store instead of going to Ford, but either way it's not expensive.
I believe the fuses for the ccp are MIDI/AMI fuses. The ones that I received add part of the Ford kit are the same size and style as the Blue seas midi fuses I'm using for my distribution.

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I'm not sure where the mini anl fuses fall. I found that the blue sea systems page was useful.

support/articles/Circuit_Protection/1441/Part_2%3A_Select_a_Fuse_and_Fuse_Holder_For_Your_DC_Product_Installation

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With a great deal of trouble, I just removed our blown 60A CCP fuse. It's a mini-ANL for sure. Based on it being a royal pita to replace, I have decided to by-pass the CCP with a 60A breaker connected to one of the more hefty studs on the OEM positive bus. No more CCP for me.
 

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With a great deal of trouble, I just removed our blown 60A CCP fuse. It's a mini-ANL for sure. Based on it being a royal pita to replace, I have decided to by-pass the CCP with a 60A breaker connected to one of the more hefty studs on the OEM positive bus. No more CCP for me.
I might go this way, too. The CCP is giving me a headache and I haven't even used it yet.
 

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With a great deal of trouble, I just removed our blown 60A CCP fuse. It's a mini-ANL for sure. Based on it being a royal pita to replace, I have decided to by-pass the CCP with a 60A breaker connected to one of the more hefty studs on the OEM positive bus. No more CCP for me.
Did this with mine and have zero regrets.

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Also, when sizing circuit breakers remember that they doubt respond nearly as quickly as fuses. I believe blue sea has response curves for all their stuff.

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With a great deal of trouble, I just removed our blown 60A CCP fuse. It's a mini-ANL for sure. Based on it being a royal pita to replace, I have decided to by-pass the CCP with a 60A breaker connected to one of the more hefty studs on the OEM positive bus. No more CCP for me.
I'm glad I searched and found this thread today. Last week I installed a 50 amp manual reset breaker a few inches from the CCP so I wouldn't have to replace the hard to get to 60 amp CCP fuse. This morning when I accidentally shorted the circuit, the CCP 60 amp fuse blew and not the 50 amp breaker so in this situation the breaker was useless. I think I'm going to bypass the CCP like Hein did. Is there any reason why I couldn't use an 80 amp fuse instead of a 60 amp fuse?
 
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