Ford Transit USA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 70 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
There are several threads about this subject and a photo here and there, so when I did the CCP upgrade this weekend, I documented everything in great detail, as I do with every part of the conversion.



Besides experiencing how flimsy the battery set-up, it took me about 4 hours to dismantle and reinstall everything. The actual kit took me only a few minutes. But now I have about 180 Amps to my disposal (while driving).

You can view the video and lots of photos here or download it as a PDF-file.

Van Williams

Save
Save
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,036 Posts
Van,

Great info about "how to". Another member was asking yesterday about how to get center console off, (OEM Center console Thread ) I gave him the link on your "USB" video. That should help him get started.

Semper Fi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
There are several threads about this subject and a photo here and there, so when I did the CCP upgrade this weekend, I documented everything in great detail, as I do with every part of the conversion.

You can view the video and lots of photos here or download it as a PDF-file.

Van Williams
Very nice write-up and pics.


I just completed this simple mod over the weekend.
This is one of your comment from your website, "... and my CCP has two attachment points but only one nut to hold it." Just like your van, my van had just one nut holding the upper stud of the CCP panel and no nut at the bottom stud. I thought it was just my van. I will go to the dealer to get the missing nut.
I was hesitant to do this mod because other threads mentioned the need to remove the diver seat and the battery to do this mod. It turn out this mod was fairly easy. Once you remove the four bolts holding the seat, it was easy access from there on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Mine only had the top chassis nut also. There were no nuts on the the three CCP posts either.

That's nuts:)
 
  • Like
Reactions: LbLamboy

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Van,

Great info about "how to". Another member was asking yesterday about how to get center console off, (OEM Center console Thread ) I gave him the link on your "USB" video. That should help him get started.

Semper Fi
Hope these things make life a bit simpler for some of us...

Van Williams
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,381 Posts
I think that bottom nut is missing because it's not as ground and the top is. No confusion there.

A plastic nut or cover could have been used, though. Odd choice of assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
kenjent & jonsobi

The one nut is 'nutty' but should be sufficient, because the CCP is part of the fuse panel, which is attached with another two bolts, so three altogether. Lots of silly things under that driver's seat.
I have a power seat; all I had to do, was slide it forward and it was completely out of the way. Simple project, but time consuming.

Van Williams
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
I installed my own lower nut, which, IIRC, was the same size as the shouldered Ford battery post nuts that I had ordered. The 3 live CCP nuts I used were fairly light duty considering I connected #4 ga from there to my inverter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
It's best to use flanged nuts as CCP nuts, but that still leaves you with razor thin angled connectors. It should have been designed differently.

Van Williams
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
@kenjent "I was hesitant to do this mod because other threads mentioned the need to remove the diver seat and the battery to do this mod." -- so you did it differently than Van and didn't remove the battery? wondering if i should go through the trouble do this or just connect to the battery directly (i think it was Eddie that did this?) -- not too much work but then there's so much other work to be done
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
I have a couple questions:
1) If I blow one of the 60A fuses, do I have to pull the battery out to access them?
2) Shouldn't the fuse upgrade should go along with the dual battery and HD alternator? In my rig, this isn't much of a problem because the only time I'd max out those fuses is when using the house battery to jump start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
@kenjent "I was hesitant to do this mod because other threads mentioned the need to remove the diver seat and the battery to do this mod." -- so you did it differently than Van and didn't remove the battery? wondering if i should go through the trouble do this or just connect to the battery directly (i think it was Eddie that did this?) -- not too much work but then there's so much other work to be done
I can only compare with my setup, but with a power seat you can move the seat fully forward and out of the way; as 'kenjent' wrote, a fixed seat must be removed to gain access. The entire process isn't very complicated, but it took me a couple of hours to finish.

Van Williams
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I have a couple questions:
1) If I blow one of the 60A fuses, do I have to pull the battery out to access them?
2) Shouldn't the fuse upgrade should go along with the dual battery and HD alternator? In my rig, this isn't much of a problem because the only time I'd max out those fuses is when using the house battery to jump start.
1) You would have to remove the fuse panel cover and you have only access to that by removing the battery. Not a very robust solution. A good prevention for blowing those fuses is what 'orton' did; he put his own fuse in after the CCP.
2) With my limited 12V knowledge, You shouldn't use the CCP with the engine off; either one or both batteries cannot handle large loads for a long time. You should first start the engine, let it run a bit, so the start battery can recharge, and then you can draw current. If you have an inverter connected to it, you could use a remote start for that. Both regular and HD alternator have excess power that you can use, just different amounts.
I have one battery (flooded) and a HD alternator.

Van Williams
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Just wanted to clarify that using the CCPs at engine off is not necessarily bad, depending on load. I run my fridge 24/7 from the ccps. It draws less than 4 amps.

I strongly recommend using a user accessible fuse system separated from the Ford fuses.

My inverter passes through a 100 amp fuse and then to two CCPs. My thinking is that the 100 will pop before the two Ford 60s. Hope I never have to find out I was wrong.

My fridge is fed from the third CCP, through a fuse block and a 10 amp fuse, IIRC. Should never blow the Ford 60a.

The problem with poping the Ford fuses is not only the big job to get at them, but they are probably an expensive special order item. Not good when you poop one in the boonies.��
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The problem with poping the Ford fuses is not only the big job to get at them, but they are probably an expensive special order item. Not good when you poop one in the boonies.��
My upgrade set, including two 60 amp fuses cost me $7.00. I regard that almost as a give-a-away.

Do you have one or two batteries? If it's one it's flooded, if it's two, they are AGM. Big difference.

Van Williams
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
Agreed, my previous comments about CCP use would only apply to the dual AGMs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nomadcape

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Could you do this with standard ANL fuses? Adv Auto is 2 minutes from my house; the nearest Ford dealer is 45 minutes away and would cost me more in gas to go get it than the cost of the actual Motorcraft part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
This thread on the CCPs has me wondering again about acceptable (engine-off) draw-down on the double batteries which, although they may be AGM, are nevertheless starter batteries and - as I understand it - prefer an existence where they are fully or nearly fully charged.

I should like to run my fridge off the CCPs rather than from the switched 12-volt outlets (it draws less than 2 amps, and runs about a quarter of the time), but I have no idea of the margin of safety I'd have.

In members' personal experience, what's a reasonably safe limit for drawing down on those AGM starter batteries? By "reasonably safe," I mean that:

1) you can draw down to that level fairly frequently without harming the batteries;
2) there's still plenty of charge left to start the vehicle?

Regards,
EJB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Could you do this with standard ANL fuses? Adv Auto is 2 minutes from my house; the nearest Ford dealer is 45 minutes away and would cost me more in gas to go get it than the cost of the actual Motorcraft part.
I cannot help you with that, may be someone else here can. But Advanced Auto may have Ford's equivalent part.

Van Williams
 
1 - 20 of 70 Posts
Top