[Mr M]

To all you electrical brag hounds out there This idiot woodworker is trying to keep his van build moving forward while learnin bout wires n stuff. So I have some Q,s, (sniggering allowed).
In an effort to install my ceiling insul and bitchen curved plywood ceilng panels, i need to first pull da wires for ceiling pucks etc. I think i know enough to possibly get them down to where all the other mysterious crap is going to live but my question is this... I'm having two sets of four lights wired separately to two switch/ dimmers above the sliding door to provide two seperate areas. I'm thinkin about wiring two lights together then joining the two pairs together at each switch. For some reason in my head I figure this may make connecting said wires to switch less congested,(still trying to learn about all the different connectors available), would this still be in parallel? Is this the best way to wire them up? Also,trying to figure out the best way to splice/connect the duplex at each light? ... or should I just hire someone to do it,.. maybe Mrs M:blush: and stick to woodwork!

thinking of using 16awg Ancor duplex to do all this incl for my Maxxair.

Oh this sparky crap makes my head hurt:crying:

Don't worry, lots more where this came from.... stay tuned..

 

[Inkog]

Assuming your installing the standard low watt LED puck lights everyone else is using, and only wiring a few in parallel, the 16awg will be fine. That 16g will also be fine for the maxxair as long as the run is no more than ~15ft. Cheap insulated crimp-on butt and spade connectors is all you need for low amp 12v stuff. Just do yourself a favor and keep all your crimp connections at accessible locations, like at the fixtures and switches.

 

[orton]

I did what you are proposing with the sold Sprinter build. Multiple ceiling lights.

The second build (Transit) I used a different (IMO better) approach.

Decided to install lights directly above the area that needed illumination with switches located where I would be standing when I wanted that illumination. Result was a much better lighting system.

Reused the 4 LED lights that Ford installed in the 148" WB cargo van and added two string LED lights. Disconnected the Ford LED lights from the Ford electrical system and powered them from the house battery.

What I ended up with that works much better than the Sprinter approach:

1. Single Ford LED light above the rear doors with switch next to it. Switch can be used from outside or from the bed platform.

2. Single Ford LED light above the shower with switch high on shower wall.

3. Two Ford LED lights above the sink counter with the switch on forward end of the sink cabinet. This switch can be operated from in front of sink or from outside the slider door.

4. A string of LED lights in the bottom slot of the rear overhead cabinet over the bed platform. Switch is located on bottom of the cabinet and can be reached from either the aisle or when in bed. String under both rear overhead cabinets with switch for each.

No automatic cargo lights when opening a cargo door.

Just a thought.

 

[Mr M]

Assuming your installing the standard low watt LED puck lights everyone else is using, and only wiring a few in parallel, the 16awg will be fine. That 16g will also be fine for the maxxair as long as the run is no more than ~15ft. Cheap insulated crimp-on butt and spade connectors is all you need for low amp 12v stuff. Just do yourself a favor and keep all your crimp connections at accessible locations, like at the fixtures and switches.

Thanks Inkog, Yes I'm using the old Acegoo 3w pucks in the ceiling and a couple of Acegoo tap/touch reading lights on the back bulkhead.

Is there anything wrong with perhaps stepping up the wire size to 14awg,or is this overkill?
Also, would you suggest the female/male (I'm assuming your butt & spade) connectors over a straight tube/crimp connector.And lastly, would you also heat shrink any of those connectors?

Mr M.

 

[Mr M]

I did what you are proposing with the sold Sprinter build. Multiple ceiling lights.

The second build (Transit) I used a different (IMO better) approach.

Decided to install lights directly above the area that needed illumination with switches located where I would be standing when I wanted that illumination. Result was a much better lighting system.

Reused the 4 LED lights that Ford installed in the 148" WB cargo van and added two string LED lights. Disconnected the Ford LED lights from the Ford electrical system and powered them from the house battery.

What I ended up with that works much better than the Sprinter approach:

1. Single Ford LED light above the rear doors with switch next to it. Switch can be used from outside or from the bed platform.

2. Single Ford LED light above the shower with switch high on shower wall.

3. Two Ford LED lights above the sink counter with the switch on forward end of the sink cabinet. This switch can be operated from in front of sink or from outside the slider door.

4. A string of LED lights in the bottom slot of the rear overhead cabinet over the bed platform. Switch is located on bottom of the cabinet and can be reached from either the aisle or when in bed. String under both rear overhead cabinets with switch for each.

No automatic cargo lights when opening a cargo door.

Just a thought.

Orton, I have keenly followed your posts and your blog/build site, thanks for all your input. I do have questions for you re your water heating setup, will hit you up on those further down the road... or you may just get to that part of your build and blog about it

We actually wanted tap/touch pucks but couldn't really source much unless from the UK. We will have tap/touch reading lights at the back so the other eight pucks are divided up between the 'kitchen' area and the lounge/seating/bed area. We figure by the end of the evening we will be down to the tap/touch lights only anyway.

I took out the Ford LED's but may try and use them in my garage area later on. Didn't much care for that harsh light in the cabin area.

 

[Inkog]

I pan to use 14g myself. Tube crimp connectors (Butt) are better for permanent wire to wire connections. You can't go wrong with heat shrinking, but I wouldn't say its necessary on the inside of a van if your using insulated connectors.

 

[orton]

Orton, I have keenly followed your posts and your blog/build site, thanks for all your input. I do have questions for you re your water heating setup, will hit you up on those further down the road... or you may just get to that part of your build and blog about it

Conversion is almost complete. The friend that built the web site decided not to continue. Site was not done using a site building program that I could continue updating. So now starting over using WIX site builder so I can add to site and update it. Should even have pictures that can be expanded! Will replace existing web site with the new one when new one has more information than the old. Might even have a video.

 

[lmleblanc]

I put dimmers and a switch similar to what you are doing, and originally thought I would put plugs on all connections, but to make everything easier I soldered all the switch connections. You might consider adding a plug to the connection to your battery. This allows you to remove the panel without much headache. I've added a picture of what I used and am glad I did. I've taken the ceiling down a few times since I installed it and this makes it easy.

 

[Anchorless]

Just FYI.

I put 6 LED lights in my van's ceiling, using 14AWG SO cable. Prior to installing the lights we used those cheap Harbor Freight magnetic LED puck lights, and some battery-powered LED christmas lights (the tiny lamp kind).

Since having the wired lights in the van, we still use the magnetic LED lights and christmas lights far more, and only rarely use the wired lights. After a year or so I kind of deem them useless. We have about 12 magnetic lights stashed throughout the van, as well as 3 runs of christmas lights, and a carton of cheap AA batteries in case our batteries run out.

 

[Inkog]

Just FYI.

I put 6 LED lights in my van's ceiling, using 14AWG SO cable. Prior to installing the lights we used those cheap Harbor Freight magnetic LED puck lights, and some battery-powered LED christmas lights (the tiny lamp kind).

Since having the wired lights in the van, we still use the magnetic LED lights and christmas lights far more, and only rarely use the wired lights. After a year or so I kind of deem them useless. We have about 12 magnetic lights stashed throughout the van, as well as 3 runs of christmas lights, and a carton of cheap AA batteries in case our batteries run out.

You should look into upgrading to rechargeable batteries. Cheaper in the long-run, better for the environment, 12v chargers are available, and good ones last forever. I still have some NiMH rechargeables that are still going strong after 10 years. You do need a good charger to maintain them properly. Cheers

 

[Travlin]

Even better if there are chargers for 1.5V batteries that run on 12V. I'd wager a moment on duckduckgo.com will reveal a few ...


BINGO!


https://www.amazon.com/i4-Intellich...80&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+aa+battery+charger

 

[Mr M]

I put dimmers and a switch similar to what you are doing, and originally thought I would put plugs on all connections, but to make everything easier I soldered all the switch connections. You might consider adding a plug to the connection to your battery. This allows you to remove the panel without much headache. I've added a picture of what I used and am glad I did. I've taken the ceiling down a few times since I installed it and this makes it easy.

Imleblanc, Good idea, i think i may copy that one somewhat. I'm trying to build this van (our second) with as many separate 'components as I can, just for the reason you've mentioned, modifications, repairs etc. My ceiling panels are curved with a couple of 1/2" x 1 1/2" Baltic Birch ribs that match my four laminated 'Beams'. Panels will be covered with foam backed headliner and screwed into the rebate on the beam. I have a steam bent Cherry cover trim piece that will then cover that beam and panel screws. The front panel gave me some headaches! Had to build that like strip planking a boat hull because of the compound curves in it.

 

[Mr M]

Just FYI.

I put 6 LED lights in my van's ceiling, using 14AWG SO cable. Prior to installing the lights we used those cheap Harbor Freight magnetic LED puck lights, and some battery-powered LED christmas lights (the tiny lamp kind).

Since having the wired lights in the van, we still use the magnetic LED lights and christmas lights far more, and only rarely use the wired lights. After a year or so I kind of deem them useless. We have about 12 magnetic lights stashed throughout the van, as well as 3 runs of christmas lights, and a carton of cheap AA batteries in case our batteries run out.

Anchorless, We've done this for the last eight or nine years with our first van, but seeing as we are going to have a house battery in this van for a fridge etc anyway we are trying to avoid buying batteries, you know, save the planet anall

 

[surly Bill]

A suggestion for the people who don't want to fuss over wiring for lights or have commitment issues regarding placement: Get the battery powered puck lights that come with a remote, I think 6 -8 pucks + remote for $10-20. They even have color adjustment and dimming. Get rechargeable batteries and an on-board charger. The batteries last for 100+ hours anyway. I've seen only 30-75 lumens, though.

 

[Hein]

+1 on the battery powered lights to save on wiring. We have plenty of that already.

We have magnetically triggered battery powered lights on all cabinet doors and drawers. I upgraded to neodymium magnets stuck on with VHB to make them trigger (turn off) over a larger distance. Replace the batteries every year or so on the more frequently used storage; -less in the others. We also use clip on goose neck book reading lights over driver passenger seats. Clipped on top of b-pillar trim, on the visor or overhead shelf. Those thin copper led strings are also a nice accent.

 

[Transit Trader]

Would be thrilled to be able to expand your good photos! Go Orton.

 

[orton]

Would be thrilled to be able to expand your good photos! Go Orton.

Been spending a lot of time building a new web site. Spending some money to revise it so hope it will be useful.

Revising the menus, adding a page for each subject instead of grouping them and may even have a video. Pictures will be expandable. Site should be easier to use. Will add a cost log and supplier list.

Do not need to make it a money making site. Only purpose is try and pass along some of the things I have learned.

 

[Transit Trader]

I have barely begun working on my van, just air suspension and sound deadening so far. Had been referred to our build by FarOutRide and wished I could expand the photos.... before I ever found this transit site. Will be excited to see your new site.

 

[call me Rob]

Just FYI.

I put 6 LED lights in my van's ceiling, using 14AWG SO cable. Prior to installing the lights we used those cheap Harbor Freight magnetic LED puck lights, and some battery-powered LED christmas lights (the tiny lamp kind).

Since having the wired lights in the van, we still use the magnetic LED lights and christmas lights far more, and only rarely use the wired lights. After a year or so I kind of deem them useless. We have about 12 magnetic lights stashed throughout the van, as well as 3 runs of christmas lights, and a carton of cheap AA batteries in case our batteries run out.

I'm with you. K.I.S.S. No house battery/charger/wires, etc.

Pocket pen lights. Bicycle tail lights for night vision.

 

[Eiko]

Bicycle tail lights for night vision.

I've been using this for the red light night vision. It's a cheap, bright white flashlight and the handle lights up as a red lantern for low level red area lighting. Blinking function for roadside emergencies which I needed once.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D2Z1A0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1