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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read here of some guys having to put pressure on the rear of the slider in order to get it to close properly, and of others having to push the aft section outwards from the inside in addition to releasing and sliding from the handle to get it opened.
My problem is trying to get it to start opening from fully closed from the outside without damaging my shoulder from the required jerk. Mine is WAY stiffer than any of the others on the lot, but dealer is still clueless.
Anyone else have difficulty getting it started rolling from the outside?
Any known fixes? Techniques?
 

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Try opening the passenger door first...it may be an air pressure issue. If that works, perhaps a slightly open window would do the same thing. Otherwise, look at the brackets that "swing out/in" on the door and see if there is something that can be adjusted (loosened?)
 

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Check height alignment of back of slider with body of van (do creases line up?). Mine was about 3/16 inch low. After adjusting it up, it actually seems to open and close easier. Not actually sure why that should be, but it seems so. See other thread from last week for method (which is bolt on aft slide hinge which is screwed to lift).
 

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Pull door handle with right hand, take left hand and put it in the space at the rear edge of the door at the sliding track -- pull the door handle and pull the rear edge of the door out with the left hand. (I had to show my wife this technique.)
 

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Check height alignment of back of slider with body of van (do creases line up?). Mine was about 3/16 inch low. After adjusting it up, it actually seems to open and close easier. Not actually sure why that should be, but it seems so. See other thread from last week for method (which is bolt on aft slide hinge which is screwed to lift).
Do you have a link to that thread? I am having trouble finding it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'd take it back to the dealer at let them fix it.
I did. They replaced the lower forward wedges under warranty and put the wrong bolts in. Now the bolt heads stick out and you can see the taper of the bolt heads. They also adjusted the upper and lower rollers. Now it is just as hard to get open as before, but instead of the easy gliding after the door is popped out it now makes gritty noises that it didn't used to before. It is only stiff to pop open, very easy gliding both directions after that. Same as before, just grittier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pull door handle with right hand, take left hand and put it in the space at the rear edge of the door at the sliding track -- pull the door handle and pull the rear edge of the door out with the left hand. (I had to show my wife this technique.)
Sounds like a technique that should not have to be resorted to. You'res is that tough to get free as that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
See other thread from last week for method (which is bolt on aft slide hinge which is screwed to lift).
Do you recall any keywords from thread title? Can't find it and don't remember seeing it.
 

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Sounds like a technique that should not have to be resorted to. You'res is that tough to get free as that?
Not really, it seems to me, that there is a short acceleration shot to get enough inertia to get around the curve. If you don't get enough inertia on the first try at opening, it only takes finger tug to get it around the corner on the second.

I suspect he's got something a little stiff in there. Just a guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I suspect he's got something a little stiff in there. Just a guess.
Yeah it takes not only a lot of muscle but a deliberate stance as well.
 

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Check height alignment of back of slider with body of van (do creases line up?). Mine was about 3/16 inch low. After adjusting it up, it actually seems to open and close easier. Not actually sure why that should be, but it seems so. See other thread from last week for method (which is bolt on aft slide hinge which is screwed to lift).
Do you have a link to that thread? I am having trouble finding it.
Do you recall any keywords from thread title? Can't find it and don't remember seeing it.
is this it?>
http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/ford-transit-troubleshooting/7329-doors-not-aligned-paint-chipping-8.html#post241362
 

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Thats the one. To add to Ultane's comments: The bottom nut is in a tight area which I could not get a wrench on either. I raised the door a bit too high, then ran the bottom lock nut up by finger, and then tightened the top bolt/nut into the bottom nut to lock. If you run out of adjustment height, you can see that you can loosen the door hinge plates and crudely raise the door and then fine tune again. I had less than 1/16 inch left in bolt adjustment when I was done, but about and 1/8th+ more in hinge adjustment.
 

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I spent a couple hours this morning looking at some Transits at a dealer lot. They're closed in Colorado on Sundays.

Three vans were unlocked...two med. roof and one low. I examined the sliding doors carefully and have determined that the main culprit for a "hard to open door", (as defined by the opener, of course), would be the latch on the back end of the slider.

When you pull the handle, the latch on the ass end of the door "pops" out the whole back end...you all know this, right? But alas, not all latches are created the same. That latch is the same that is in the driver and passenger doors up front...at least it sure looks like it. I think Ford should beef up the one for the slider.

Of the three vans, the one that was nice and easy to operate kicked it out forcibly, allowing the sliders to take over. The other two kicked it out weakly, resulting in more effort in one way or another to get it moving.

The sliders on all three worked nicely, although one in particular seemed extra smooth. When I finally get my van, I'll be sure to examine that back latch in hopes that it's got some punch to it.

In regards to closing the door...you certainly need to give it a good running start. But I've already decided that I'll be using both hands as much as possible. Both of the E-series vans I've had took the beating well enough, but I'm not confident that the Transit design will hold up to years of slamming. There doesn't seem to be much middle ground, it's either slam or double push.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The dealer told me my door was functioning normal......for the fourth time.
I will try a different dealership.
 

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Mine is okay but there is room for improvement. I certainly plan to look at that rear latch to see if some lube is needed.

I have a hunch I will someday add a second handle about shoulder width from the original, to provide better purchase when motivating the door up a slope.

Should be a simple mod.
 

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I have brought to dealer three times. It is still unacceptable how it operates. The first time was after delivery I noticed it had chips on back end of door and frame and the back end would never latched properly so I brought to dealer and they had a mechanic come out without writing it up adjust it not to hit on back end but it still had to be re-shut two to three times to get it to latch. After that adjustment it was always noisy inside while driving like it was not seal against weatherstripping properly and allowed movement of door even though it was latched. The second time I brought it in to a dealer closer to my home they adjusted it better and it did not make noise while driving but they noticed a worn guide at front pillar and told me it had to be ordered and to bring it back later. The only problem was that on this second attempt it would occasionally not open at all especially first thing in the morning when my wife had to do school drop offs. Not to mention all the grease they left on all the guide holes that should not be needed if it worked properly. The third attempt after installing the worn guide at front pillar it operates a bit easier but still will not close properly and it is back to making all kinds of noise while driving. At exterior body lines do not match up as well. Service department says there is definitely something wrong with it but there is no more adjustment and they think that maybe when build the body might not have been aligned before welding. They told me to try another dealer and call Ford customer care.
As I said before this is unacceptable. I have had many things that were missing on my vehicle or installed incorrectly. Misbuilt. My wife is sick of it and to tell you the truth I am as well. If I could go back in time I would get a Mercedes. I convinced my wife to go American but at this point I have to say I was wrong. I wish they would just take it back and give me my money. I paid in full of coarse, hard earned money.
 
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