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4.) I may regret it later, but I decided to add an additional 1/2 qt taking me up to a total of 6.5 qts. You can see that a little goes a long way on the dipstick. A 1/2 qt raised the level about the same distance as the "A" and "B" hash areas on the dipstick. Can anybody confirm that the "B" hash distance on the dipstick is calibrated to equal a 1/2 qt?
Can't confirm B distance = 1/2 qt. I wouldn't assume it. It probably is quite variable with temp since SM doesn't say; on a cold trans, it says to add until the the dipstick level is below both the A and B hatchmarks. I bet if you were in the A area cold, remeasuring it jsut idling at the correct temp would take you into the B area.

Then drive and with the car idling and temp at the specified value, add or remove fluid until it is at the top of the B hatched area.

I've read on other threads that TorquePro will give you trans temp if you add a customized PID .

These modern transmissions seem extremely particularly about fluid levels and measuring them. So it seems it me that I would follow at least that final measuring procedure as per the SM; correct temp, idling. Which means your earlier question of "is fluid going to spray everywhere if I remove the dipstick with the engine" should be a no.

What is the purpose of the "A" hatched area? Maybe the A area is a "cushion" zone so you don't overfill? i.e., don't go into the A area when filling it cold?

BTW, if you used the correct front jacking point using a floor jack like I do, where do you position the second supporting jack?
 

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BTW, if you used the correct front jacking point using a floor jack like I do, where do you position the second supporting jack?
I did not use the recommended front jacking points. I knew that my van was going to be in the air for quite a while, so I wanted the jackstands under the best position possible...which I deemed to be the recommended jacking points. That round steel bar sits in the saddle of my jackstands perfectly and it is rock solid! That being said, I had to lift it somewhere else. My first thought was to use the hoist positions specified in the manual, but my jack was going to collide with the jackstand at that location. Ultimately, I used two bottle jacks (with hardwood pads to spread the load) under the transmission cross-member. I used two jacks to raise it evenly because I wasn't liking the dynamics that began to occur when I started lifting one side at a time. I chose the trans cross member because each end terminates under the factory jacking points so I effectively applied force to the chassis in the recommended locations. I felt that my worst case scenario would be a dented/bent transmission cross-member, and that is replaceable vs a frame rail which for all practical purposes is not. This is what I did, and it has worked precisely one time for me thus far. Unfortunately, that's all I can say about it for now. I'd be very open to other lift point suggestions or criticisms about my methods. Safety for me and others reading this is paramount, and I like living. :)
 

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I did not use the recommended front jacking points. I knew that my van was going to be in the air for quite a while, so I wanted the jackstands under the best position possible...which I deemed to be the recommended jacking points. That round steel bar sits in the saddle of my jackstands perfectly and it is rock solid!
Reversing the positions and putting the jackstands under the factory point makes sense to me. Whatever you are doing the van is going to be on the jackstands longer than the active jacking which is only a few minutes.

From a mechanical perspective, I have no idea where the best position to use as the second position. Trans x-member sounds reasonable especially the way you did it. But your method sounds time and labor intensive with two jacks. Although that doesn't really matter in terms of the long time your van is sitting on the jackstands.

I lifted from the factory point with a floor jack and put a jackstand (with a piece of wood to spread the load a bit) on the lower control arm as close as I could get to the large rear control arm bushing bolt. My jackstand has a shallow U so I probably should have straddled the bolt head. Not sure if that would have been better.

Completely agree - jacking or lifting anywhere on the unibody would not be good.
 

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These Transmissions is 6 r80 have a thermal check valve.in order to flush these things that temperature has to be very high and ran at high RPMs otherwise it will not clean out
 

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LOL, People stop and gawk when I drive my van up on my home made plywood ramps. I have to do it with the hand brake on to feel even remotely safe. Done it a hundred times without incident. With the ramps stacked on top of my cheater shim ramps I can raise the front about a foot. It looks extra spooky because the ramps are only about as wide as the tires. Gets the van level in my sloped driveway. To do the giubo I have another set of 7" ramps I put under the rear tires. No chance of constipation after that maneuver.
 

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LOL, People stop and gawk when I drive my van up on my home made plywood ramps. I have to do it with the hand brake on to feel even remotely safe. Done it a hundred times without incident. With the ramps stacked on top of my cheater shim ramps I can raise the front about a foot. It looks extra spooky because the ramps are only about as wide as the tires. Gets the van level in my sloped driveway. To do the giubo I have another set of 7" ramps I put under the rear tires. No chance of constipation after that maneuver.
Are you the guy that made the homemade 5 foot tall ramps and the neighbors reported you?
Them pictures were crazy. Rotflmao lol
 

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Where are these pics lol??
Googled that came up dry. This I gotta see.
I can't find that one now but it was under something like home made car ramps or diy car ramps , I found a different one and there's all kinds of crazy ones on YouTube
Apparently to build car ramps over a certain size you need a building permit , lol
 

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/images/smilies/tango_face_surprise.pngHeavens to Betsy!!!/images/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png

(plywood shear panels - seems to suggest some engineering occurring so there's that)
 

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Ugh.

I thought this was going to be done yesterday, but the guy at the transmission shop said he worked for 2.5 hours just to get 1 bolt out of the suspension subframe, and bailed on the job. He said he was worried the other bolts would break and leave him in a pickle and didn't want to work on it anymore.

He says "I don't know how ford is getting those bolts out" .

Wow, right???

So I have the ford dealer scratching their head on how to quote it, they said they would call me back and never did.

I called another shop of well repute and the guy said he didn't have the right equipment to hold the transit aloft while dropping the cradle. He declined.

So finally after tons of calls, and a shop that is far away, has agreed to attempt the job on May 16th. What a fiasco.

To others who have had the cradle lowered and the pan dropped - where did you have it done? If it's on my path of travel I might put this off until I am in that area.
 

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A little late to the show but get a new shop! I was in a accident that has caused me to need a new front end. While doing the work I played with getting the pan off. A pair of jack stands will hold it just fine as you drop the 2 bolts and 2 nuts. Yes, one was hard to remove but it was due to rust. New bolt solved the problem. Only issue I have right now is getting the proper filter for it. Off to the dealer in the morning to get it so I can put it all together the easy way.
 

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A little late to the show but get a new shop! I was in a accident that has caused me to need a new front end. While doing the work I played with getting the pan off. A pair of jack stands will hold it just fine as you drop the 2 bolts and 2 nuts. Yes, one was hard to remove but it was due to rust. New bolt solved the problem. Only issue I have right now is getting the proper filter for it. Off to the dealer in the morning to get it so I can put it all together the easy way.
might as well ad a bung to your pan??
 

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might as well ad a bung to your pan??
Actually put one in when it was rebuilt at 70 to 80k. I pulled 8.5 quarts out not including spillage. Replacing EVERYTHING that is part of the steering and naturally got carried away and decided to do the trans filter then water pump and therm. Broke a small plastic water line from the container to the radiator, now off to the dealer in the morning AGAIN. But, almost done! Finished the body work over the weekend. :) Off topic but the cross pipe will come off doing the water pump, it won't be easy to remove to replace the seals.... I just pulled the plenum which isn't bad at all to do. Can check your valves at the same time. My catch can seems to be doing the trick. Still cleaned them some...
 

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Want to verify I'm not completely off my rocker here.... 2018 with 25k miles, I have the occasional growl/grumble at low rpm/low throttle/slight load around 35~45mph and have Very recently noticed that when starting up from cold and shifting into reverse it takes a few seconds before I GET reverse. So, I'm thinking I'm developing a Transmission issue... go to check the fluid level/color/smell today (been parked awhile on level ground) and when I pull the 'dipstick' the fluid Instantly overflows. That's not supposed to happen, right? I don't mean a little weep, I mean it gushed enough to make a 9" puddle in the time it took me to recognize what was happening and get the 'dipstick' back in, a second at the most. I'm not even sure the 'dipstick' had a gauge on it I put it back in so fast (passenger side, up near the torque converter, have to reach over the exhaust, 19mm that sticks up about an inch ~ right?)

On the bright side, the fluid doesn't have any noticeable smell to it and is only maybe a little darker in color to new. Just anxious about the fill level now. Hoping that it was simply that the fluid drained into the pan over the past however long it's been (week or two with T-giving).
 
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