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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 350 XLT wagon. It doesn't have a factory hitch installed. I know my old Ford Flex had a tow package that included things like transmission cooler etc, so adding a hitch without the full package gave really limited towing capacities.

Does my 350 wagon need anything other than the hitch to achieve it's rated towing capacity? I'm guessing it doesn't, but I wanted to double check just to be sure...
 

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2015 350 Transit 3.5l EcoBoost
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It depends on if you just want to "tow" or you want to "tow safely." If you're towing more than 2000lbs (trailer+cargo combined weight), I'd recommend that your trailer be equipped with electric brakes so you'll need a brake controller. If towing more than 2000lbs at speeds greater than 55mph, I'd recommend a hitch with weight distribution/sway control.

If your trailer doesn't have brakes and you're towing more than 1000lbs, your braking distances in a straight line will increase significantly and emergency braking in curves will require extra caution.
 

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To answer your question directly, the cooling package is identical in all Transits. The radiator and transmission cooler are the same among all models, towing package or not. Both gas engines share the same oil cooler, and the diesel engine uses a different design, none of which are affected by the towing package.

I'm very surprised that someone ordered a 350 without a hitch or a tow package.
Ours is like that. The overwhelming majority of T-350s out there are fleet spec and lack the tow package. All long wheelbase wagons are 350s, it's kind of a meaningless designation.
 

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you will need some items, https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2015/2015_Transit_BEMM_v1-0.pdf
in the above pdf, check out pages 58-61,
not sure if you are a do it yourself, if so hope you have patience, it is not as simple as it seems.
i purchased the FK4Z-15A416-A https://accessories.ford.com/exterior/trailer-towing/kit-trailer-hitch-electrics-11107.html
I have installed this kit minus the brake controller dash wire,(i have not chosen one yet, but will install)
I installed all of the install parts pictured in the above pdf pg 58
i only have turn signals and brake lights, i have no power for running lights, i have 12 volt power at rear of vehicle.
page 61 above the chart in the notes section. I am hoping to take in to the dealer to see if this is why i do not have running lights. because of the wrong parameter set in
CCC parameter 20
0x01with out trailer tow (what i think my parameter is set at)
0x08 trailer module 7 POS socket
 

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I'm very surprised that someone ordered a 350 without a hitch or a tow package.
I've preferred to have towing capabilities on all my vehicles since I bought my first one. However, look up the inventory at several Ford dealers, most wagons do not have the towing package included.

I assume that with vehicles like my Super Duty, the percentage of owners who need to tow are fairly high, while I doubt it is anywhere near the same for T350 Wagons. I did not buy mine to tow any of my trailers, but for other needs.
 

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2015 350 Transit 3.5l EcoBoost
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I've preferred to have towing capabilities on all my vehicles since I bought my first one. However, look up the inventory at several Ford dealers, most wagons do not have the towing package included.

I assume that with vehicles like my Super Duty, the percentage of owners who need to tow are fairly high, while I doubt it is anywhere near the same for T350 Wagons. I did not buy mine to tow any of my trailers, but for other needs.
I see your point. The 350 does get you a rear end that doesn't sag so if you're carrying 12 passengers and a ton of gear, it makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I'm very surprised that someone ordered a 350 without a hitch or a tow package.

Ford Transit towing info
It was a commercial van before I bought it. I guess companies figure they don't need a hitch when they're running shuttle service. I would have favored a van with a hitch, but of the four 350 vans available at the time, none had hitches.

I've got a curt class 4 sitting in the box in my foyer right now, waiting for me to have a minute to install it. No trailer wiring yet, but honestly my primary use case will probably be a 2 bike carrier for a while.
 

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I've got a curt class 4 sitting in the box in my foyer right now, waiting for me to have a minute to install it. No trailer wiring yet, but honestly my primary use case will probably be a 2 bike carrier for a while.
I have the same hitch on mine and really like it. For the last couple months it's carried my daughter's power wheelchair on a hitch-mounted lift. In all, 480 lbs on the hitch, and no signs of any issues. Good choice!





I installed the factory wiring kit, and highly recommend it. Plug-and-play with the OEM wiring, the worst part is taking a few minutes to remove the driver's side kick panel. I paid $130 for the kit, but it's worth it to me to preserve the factory wiring integrity.

https://accessories.ford.com/exterior/trailer-towing/kit-trailer-hitch-electrics-11107.html

Needed this guy to mount the plug:

http://www.etrailer.com/new_review.aspx?pc=HM40978,&oid=104190962&cn=Thomas
 

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2015 350 Transit 3.5l EcoBoost
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I have the same hitch on mine and really like it. For the last couple months it's carried my daughter's power wheelchair on a hitch-mounted lift. In all, 480 lbs on the hitch, and no signs of any issues. Good choice!
Nice wheelchair lift. Our daughter uses a motorized wheelchair occasionally when her muscular dystrophy gets the better of her. I went with the Harbor Freight cargo carrier that I have to drive the wheelchair up and onto. If we have to use the chair more often, I'm definitely getting a lift like yours.
 

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Doesn't my user manual specifically say that weight distribution hitches are not recommended?
Manual says "not recommended," guys that tow a lot say "highly recommended" especially with a camper or travel trailer. ((shrugs)) I went with the voices of experience.
 

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Nice wheelchair lift. Our daughter uses a motorized wheelchair occasionally when her muscular dystrophy gets the better of her. I went with the Harbor Freight cargo carrier that I have to drive the wheelchair up and onto. If we have to use the chair more often, I'm definitely getting a lift like yours.
Thanks! I thought about something like that, but I needed it to be able to function on the hitch of my F150, which has an 18" hitch height. The chair is 338 lbs, which is more than I thought my wife could get up the ramp with that steep of an angle. It does well on grades, but that would be too much for it.

My health insurance paid for the lift, but they're kind of pricey. I think they paid around $4,100 for it installed. It's a Bruno ASL-250.

Sorry to hear about your daughter, ours has spina bifida.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z162/tomboy376/2016-05-15 17.48.31_zps0xffnpmu.jpg
 

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The Curt Class 4 hitch is where it's at. Beefier than the stock ford hitch and more bolts with more surface clamping area to the chassis than any other aftermarket hitch. If I ended up with a van with the ford hitch, I'd replace it.

And WDH? Read your manual and then make your own decision. I've towed with and without, and I'll never again tow without.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The Curt Class 4 hitch is where it's at. Beefier than the stock ford hitch and more bolts with more surface clamping area to the chassis than any other aftermarket hitch. If I ended up with a van with the ford hitch, I'd replace it.
Just finished installing mine this evening. Definitely a quality piece of kit. I dunno about that time estimate though. 15 minutes for a pro and 30 minutes for a DIYer? I spent about two hours, most of it trying to fish the bolts through the rear frame. Ha. Had to buy a specialty 9/16" drill bit too, but it also looks like a quality piece of kit, so I can't complain. Just glad to have it done.

Can't wait to try it out tomorrow. :)
 

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Yup, fishing those bolts was definitely the hardest part for me. Don't remember how I finally got them in, but the design of that rail sure made things difficult.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yup, fishing those bolts was definitely the hardest part for me. Don't remember how I finally got them in, but the design of that rail sure made things difficult.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For posterity, and the benefit of anyone else doing this install, I'll describe how I fished the bolts closest to the rear of the vehicle, as those were the hardest and the instructions didn't help much:

I inserted the bolts and rectangular "washer" from the end closest to the rear of the vehicle. There is a hole at the top of the frame tubing. I fished the line through the exit hole, then brought the rectangular washer and bolt in.

At this point, the first thing I tried was to insert the bolt into the washer and just tug it toward the exit hole with the line, but that ends up binding the rectangular washer against the slanted piece of metal in there (see the diagram in the instructions).

Instead, I turned the rectangular washer on it's side and inserted the bolt. Again, this is all with both the bolt and rectangular washer inside the frame tubing already. I have very small hands. I can't imagine someone with large fingers doing this.

It's counter intuitive, and I can't quite visualize how it helped, but for some reason having the rectangular washer on it's side with the bolt inserted allowed me to tug the line and get the bolt to come through the exit hole without the rectangular washer binding on anything.

Hope that saves someone an hour. It was very frustrating.

There may be a better way to do it. This is just how I ended up getting it done. Good luck!
 

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Did you figure out the running light in-op problem, I have the exact same issue. Installed wiring kit, brake lights, turn signals....no park lights on trailer??
The brown wire is the side marker and tail lights. The yellow is the left turn and brake and the green is the right turn and brake. With the parking lights on, you should have approx. 12vdc between brown and ground at the trailer plug. If not then it's the vehicle wiring. If you do then it's the trailer wiring. I can't really tell you much more because I have both the 4 and 7 pin plugs with the factory installed wiring and brake controller and mine could be wired completely different than yours.
 
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