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Hi:
Anyone know the bolt size & thread pitch to fit the threaded holes on the side panels? (I am hoping I don't have to find out via trial and error)

8mm in walls. D-ring bolt holes are probably 11 mm metric but 7/16-20NF bolts work.
 

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Actually Orton, I think you're spot on with the D-ring bolts being 7/16. I had to replace a few to build my bed supports and those were a direct replacement. Ford must have boxes of non metric D rings sitting around.
JP
 

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Actually Orton, I think you're spot on with the D-ring bolts being 7/16. I had to replace a few to build my bed supports and those were a direct replacement. Ford must have boxes of non metric D rings sitting around.
JP
I used 7/16-20 NF. I removed the D-rings and am using those threaded holes to bolt in a 1 5/8" thick floor at seven places. Floor should be competed tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
8mm in walls. D-ring bolt holes are probably 11 mm metric but 7/16-20NF bolts work.
Thanks! they are M8x1.25 pitch.

What are you guys using for rivnut sizes that can fit inside the 5/16 holes on the ribs of the side panels (where the factory plastic panels attach to).

I found some M8x1.25 rivnuts on Grainger.com (http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Rivet-Nut-5NNN7)
But they require a 17/32 hole.

I'm used to metric bolts, and all these fractions in inches is causing me to do math :).

thanks
Tony
 

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What are you guys using for rivnut sizes that can fit inside the 5/16 holes on the ribs of the side panels (where the factory plastic panels attach to).
Some of us are using 1/4 inch pre-bulbed Plusnuts. If you pinch the pre-bulbed part a bit with a vice grip, they work well in the holes intended to the black plastic inserts. Using pre-bulbed since they were easiest to find.
 

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Thanks! they are M8x1.25 pitch.

What are you guys using for rivnut sizes that can fit inside the 5/16 holes on the ribs of the side panels (where the factory plastic panels attach to).

I found some M8x1.25 rivnuts on Grainger.com (http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Rivet-Nut-5NNN7)
But they require a 17/32 hole.

I'm used to metric bolts, and all these fractions in inches is causing me to do math :).

thanks
Tony
Also using 1/4-20NC prebulbed inserts in the existing holes without drilling. Just hammer them in.

Why use metric? No one will know if they are not metric.

I used 1/8" pop rivits to install the wall covers in my sold Sprinter. That worked very well. Advantage was you can drill the hole in the side paneling and the van steel at the same time. No need to determine exactly where the hole is on the panel to match an existing hole on the van. Transit has nice flat wall with usable holes so will use them.
 

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I'm new to pre-bulbed inserts... Is there a recommended tool for setting them?

Thanks...
Simple one is McMaster Carr # 96349A555. You need to state size and if using prebulbed the bolt must be replaced with a longer bolt. Small so very little restriction of where you use it. Large handle tools would restrict where you can use the tool. Works very well.
 

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To re-iterate from my DIY thread (since I do not know how to make a link):

From invoice:
1/4-20 .020 -.280 GRIP RANGE, STEEL ZINC YELLOW, PLUS NUT PRE-BULBED
Product Code: RN2520280PNB from Rivets by Jay-Cee | Rivets In Stock - Rivets & Rivet Tools . Bought tool recommended by Orton from McMaster-Carr mcmaster.com . PN 96349A305 Wrench-Drive Rivet Nut Installation Tool, for 1/4"-20 & 1/4"-28 Thread Size . I know nothing about other installation tools. Taped paint around nut so I would not scratch wall with wrench. Backed with 5/16" SS washer where I could get it in behind for added strength (I think that this is important). Bolt that came with tool worked fine, though I later bought a couple more, including one 1/4" shorter, which was more correct in length for these nuts. Added a little adhesive caulk to each nut before inserting to seal them in better (rust, spin). I put them on tool then compressed them with vice grip to get into holes, which were actually a little small for prebulbed plusnuts. These fit the van holes which are used to fasten the default walls. In the roof rib, the holes 7.5" from the center line are that size, while the ones about 11" further are too small to fit and I had to drill them out. Do not under tighten as they will spin nor over tighten as they will distort (I had both).
 

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Thanks!

With respect to pre-bulbed vs non pre-bulbed, do the pre-bulbed versions install easier, with less force? Why would I choose one version over the other?
Pre-bulbed install easier since they naturally want to expend the right way (outward not inward). I actually could not find non-pre-bulbed, probably a popularity issue. Squeezing down a pre-bulbed is trivial, though a few times I over did it and make them a bit harder to install than necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
pre-bulbed inserts source/part#?

I couldn't find any pre-bulbed inserts @ grainger or mcmaster carr.

Where are you guys sourcing these? and are the known by a different name or part#?

Lowes & Menards were hopeless for rivet nuts or pre-bulbed inserts.

thanks
tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

Awesome! Thank you.

My next questions are:
1. How do you remove the black styrofoam things on the corner of the roofs behind the seats? Do they just pop off like the side panel rivets?

2. What about the fasteners for the rear of the headliner? It looks like I should be able to pull the liner off the rivet by pushing the liner forward and off the rivet, or do I just pull down and pop the rivet off the hole?

Thanks
Tony


Sent from a hardware device using some software.
 

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Simple one is McMaster Carr # 96349A555. You need to state size and if using prebulbed the bolt must be replaced with a longer bolt. Small so very little restriction of where you use it. Large handle tools would restrict where you can use the tool. Works very well.
The limitation for this tool is with regular non-bulbed inserts when you try to put an insert in the roof ribs it requires 3 hands. Two on the wrenches and one to hold insert up in the hole. The prebulbed insert will support the tool as you use two hands to turn the two wrenches. The alternate long handled inert tool allows overhead regular inserts because you can push up on the two handles at the same time as you operate the tool.
 
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