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Discussion Starter #1
I am working on my plans to install cameras around the van and use a mobile NVR, with WiFi access to continuously record the activity around the van. I want to place the mobile NVR somewhere in the console area above the seats/dashboard. Based on spending all morning reading many threads on this forum, it appears there is no easy way to get "decicated always on" 12V into that area.
The best way I have read so far is a comment by "Geo" in 2018 stating he ran dedicated 12V from the battery box up the "B" pillar then forward to the console. (I suppose somehow routing the wire around/away from the curtain airbags.)
Has anyone else routed dedicated 12V wires to the upper console?

When I figure out my complete plan, I will be dropping the upper console and headliner/s to finish routing the harness for my rear upper brake light camera, and install a upper front facing camera by the center cab roof light. Then tie in a left and right camera mounted somewhere on one of the rear view mirror bezels.

If no one can share something silmlar that they have done, and I can't figure out a good way to get dedicated 12V to that area, I will look further into a smaller battery backup for the NVR, and try to use switched power to recharge the battery when I drive.

Another thing I am considering is to ditch my near worthless rear view mirror and mount a decent sized monitor in the area. I have seen some threads where monitor/s have been mounted above the rear view mirror. I think a 10" or 12" wide aspect ratio monitor could work well to display the upper rear camera I installed. (Not my OEM Back-up camera, that works on my recent 12.8" Carbar head unit - and gets blocked when I put on the bike racks I recently fabricated.)
With the bigger monitor, I could display only the rear upper camera or a live quad camera view and review the NRV recordings.
I am still thinking about this approach, and would use the same dedicated 12V to power the monitor.

The other option is to purchase a rear View mirror monitor, but to date, I don't want all the features they are installing in them, because I already have all the capability in my Head unit.

Thought and other ideas are appreciated.
 

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There's power to the dome light and map reading lights that's both always on and ignition on. Is that close enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
There's power to the dome light and map reading lights that's both always on and ignition on. Is that close enough?
Not sure. Thought I read a post that they may not be able to handle the amperage. These lights are listed as using 20 gauge wire, 5 amps max @ 12V.
In low roof vans I see references to F25 which is listed as a 7.5amp fuse. In medium/High Roof, I see references to F32 which is a 10 amp fuse, and there are more interior lights in the circuits listed.
I see noted above the fuse callout "Hot all times with battery saver relay engaged". I don't have a clue yet what the battery saver relay is.

I see too that my extended wheelbase 350HD is called "Jumbo" wheel base, and I have 4th row seating lights added.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Quick update. The 12V monitors I am looking at are mainly 2 amp, and one at 3 amp. Most of the NVR, DVRs and other more expensive recorders are 2 amps. If I have to add some sort of WiFi module to send the camera feed back to my house, the routers I have looked at are 1 amp. Therefore I will need over 5 amps and that is the limit of the 20 gage convenience light wiring. I think I would like a margin at least 3X of today's planned power consumption, in case I need/want to expand the system and add other devices into the console area. Radar/laser detector, 2nd monitor or perhaps a larger drop down TV to be seen by passengers.

Therefore I will want at least 12 gauge wires routed. 10 gauge might even be better, if my wire run gets over 10ft of wire.
 

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"Hot all times with battery saver relay engaged"

Relay drops out either based on timer, or low voltage (when it gets close to 12V or slightly lower). Just a guess....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"Hot all times with battery saver relay engaged"

Relay drops out either based on timer, or low voltage (when it gets close to 12V or slightly lower). Just a guess....
Page 13-41 of my Electrical shematic manual shows the "battery Safety Relay" with a note that says "non serviceable" inside the shaded box representing the "BCM" module. It seems to be integrated into the BCM. It appears that wiring from this relay goes to both F25 and F32 via the "Auxillary Junction Box" No indication of how much apmerage this can take.
I wonder if anyone has researched the capability of this relay? I'd hate to do damage to the BCM due to drawing too much current through it over time.
 

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There are fuses on the BCM, Maybe you can find a diagram listing those fuses and their amperage.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
F25 and F32 appear to be in the Passenger side fuse box. I believe it may be easier to route heavier gauge wires from the battery area/driver seat, under the padding, and up the B pillar to the upper console area, than it will be to route wires through the dashboard, up one of the A pillars, and over to the upper Console.
 

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Another possibility is to get unswitched 12v+ from the CCP and put your own fuse on the line, and simply run it up the pillar and over the door.

As for the rearview mirror, both of our vans have this fantastic Pikibu mirror on them.
139893


By the way the radar detector gets switched power from the plug behind the mirror shroud.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was looking into a 12" rear view mirror that accepts additonal cameras, and incorporates a front facing camera. SInce I am planning on having a 4 or 8 Channel MDVR, I want a bigger screen to be able to easily see and review/see 4 cameras at a time. For my aging eyes, trying to see details in a rear view mirror size monitor isn't appealing to me.

As I continue to look at the electrical schematics and add up the possible amperage I will eventually require in the overhead console, it is looking more and more like I will need to route my own 10 or 12 gauge wires for power. (More time, more money!)
I have thoughts of installing a 32" drop down TV in that area as well. But this is on my "C" list. OTOH, if I am routing power to that area, I might add in additional wiring while I am at it.
 

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I was looking into a 12" rear view mirror that accepts additonal cameras, and incorporates a front facing camera. SInce I am planning on having a 4 or 8 Channel MDVR, I want a bigger screen to be able to easily see and review/see 4 cameras at a time. For my aging eyes, trying to see details in a rear view mirror size monitor isn't appealing to me.

As I continue to look at the electrical schematics and add up the possible amperage I will eventually require in the overhead console, it is looking more and more like I will need to route my own 10 or 12 gauge wires for power. (More time, more money!)
I have thoughts of installing a 32" drop down TV in that area as well. But this is on my "C" list. OTOH, if I am routing power to that area, I might add in additional wiring while I am at it.
Here is am idea for you.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
LOL! I saw that one, it is a bit on the excessive side. That is why I referenced the single monitor installation. Interesting to note how big of bezels are around his monitors. New units have more screen and less housing around them, allowing a more functional streamline look.
One thing I am wondering about is how bad of a distraction a bright monitor will be at night. I believe that one of the units I am looking at has a night sensor to auto-decrease the screen's intensity.
 

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The side curtain airbags are installed in the "A" pillar on each side of the front windshield, and extend above the front doors ending at the foam blocks. You don't want to install any wiring where it could interfere with the airbag deployment. I installed a 10 gauge wire from the customer connection point, up the "B" pillar, aft of the foam block, and across to the center of the ceiling so the wire would be well clear of the airbags.
 
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