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Discussion Starter #1
I couldn't think of what to search for. I am looking for something that will cover exposed metal on the interior of my transit, like a thick tape or something like that, just to keep the heat conductive metal isolated. What material should I be looking at?
 

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I couldn't think of what to search for. I am looking for something that will cover exposed metal on the interior of my transit, like a thick tape or something like that, just to keep the heat conductive metal isolated. What material should I be looking at?
the vast majority of people on this forum make no attempt at covering the exposed metal wall reinforcing frames, i have no idea why other then it may interfere with the're east/west bed schemes. myself and a few others here have covered all of the exposed steel with cedar or pine tongue & groove planks on 2x2 or 1x2 studs with insulation in between the studs.

although many here use one type of tape or another to cover the rear wheel wells to deaden the sound, maybe some of those may have insulation qualities as well? search: sound deadener.
 

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I think Minicell Foam was mentioned and/or recommended/used by several people here.
 

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Consider indoor/outdoor carpet which is 3/16" thick.

I left the existing plastic rear wheel covers and put 1" closed cell foam on top and side of the covers.

I have an across the van bed platform so did not want to fill the window indents in order to get a 73 1/2" bed length. Put 1 1/2" polyiso between the steel stiffeners and 1" on top of the stiffeners. Filled in between with Great Stuff and covered the polyiso with indoor/outdoor carpet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Consider indoor/outdoor carpet which is 3/16" thick.

I left the existing plastic rear wheel covers and put 1" closed cell foam on top and side of the covers.

I have an across the van bed platform so did not want to fill the window indents in order to get a 73 1/2" bed length. Put 1 1/2" polyiso between the steel stiffeners and 1" on top of the stiffeners. Filled in between with Great Stuff and covered the polyiso with indoor/outdoor carpet.
This is exactly why I asked. My plan is an east-west bed in the rear, and for that, being 6'1" tall I need all the space I can get. I wasn't even sure I want more then 1" polyiso between the stiffeners (I assume you mean the flat space where a window would have been installed had one gotten windows from the factory). just to conserve space.. The plan is polyiso between the stiffeners, covered with carpet. But then I need to cover the stiffeners with something..

For the rest of the van (roof and forward walls) I plan on Thinsulate behind pine planks, but for the bed area I needed more space.
 

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I thought of sound deadener. The thing is, I don't need noise isolation, I need thermal isolation. I realize there is some crossover, but I want to find the product that is best for thermal, rather then sound
you said tape and i was not sure of what type of application you were looking for, there are many good threads here on insulation on this forum for you to explore.
also this is a good blog that explains all the specs on many types of insulation:

http://www.buildagreenrv.com/design-and-build-information-for-camper-vans/install-insulation/
 

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This is exactly why I asked. My plan is an east-west bed in the rear, and for that, being 6'1" tall I need all the space I can get.
At 5'-10" I just fit when sleeping on my stomach. At 6'-1" I doubt that you can make it work without adding to the van width with external boxes added to the window openings. Better make a temporary mockup to confirm if it will or will not work. Might work depending on how you sleep. Worst case is if you sleep on your stomach.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
At 5'-10" I just fit when sleeping on my stomach. At 6'-1" I doubt that you can make it work without adding to the van width with external boxes added to the window openings. Better make a temporary mockup to confirm if it will or will not work. Might work depending on how you sleep. Worst case is if you sleep on your stomach.
I was worried about that, but I made a thread a while ago asking about it and there where a few people who insisted I would be okay. I still can't believe it. I better make a mockup with a few 2x4s.. I usually sleep on my side or my back, but I like to have room to relax my feet and stretch out my legs.

There is a place a few hours from me that will install flarespace flares (painted and all) for $3300.00 + tax
I may have to bite the bullet on that one
 

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DOW Thermax rigid insulation is about as good as it gets without going to vacuum insulation panels which cost lots more, and are very fragile. You could cut some score lines into a sheet of Thermax and curve it to fit the sheet metal. If you want soft insulation, then look at Aerocel EPDM Elastomeric Sheet Insulation. Thermax is R-7 per inch, and Aerocel is R4.1 per inch. Aerocel is an effective vapor barrier.
 

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Since I had it anyway, first I put a layer of FatMat over the window panels; then I cut Reflectix insulation which tucks nicely into each each window panel's groove. Then I used 3-M 90 to glue cheap indoor/outdoor carpet over the entirety of the window indent. I have quilt batting stuffed into the lower areas below the window indents; but the upper ones are empty.

Ironically, today my yoga mat arrived. I've been eyeballing the D-pillars, which we will be sleeping next to in our N/S bed alignment; and I was concerned about condensation. Since those pillars are a handy source of ventilation, I didn't want to fill them with insulation. At first I was thinking some thin neoprene, to act as insulation and padding - then realized that 1/4" yoga mat is WAY cheaper (and comes in nice colors). I'm out of 3-M 90, so will try to get 2-sided carpet tape to hold the pieces of mat to the pillars. Depending on how well it sticks - I may use it elsewhere...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Since I had it anyway, first I put a layer of FatMat over the window panels; then I cut Reflectix insulation which tucks nicely into each each window panel's groove. Then I used 3-M 90 to glue cheap indoor/outdoor carpet over the entirety of the window indent. I have quilt batting stuffed into the lower areas below the window indents; but the upper ones are empty.

Ironically, today my yoga mat arrived. I've been eyeballing the D-pillars, which we will be sleeping next to in our N/S bed alignment; and I was concerned about condensation. Since those pillars are a handy source of ventilation, I didn't want to fill them with insulation. At first I was thinking some thin neoprene, to act as insulation and padding - then realized that 1/4" yoga mat is WAY cheaper (and comes in nice colors). I'm out of 3-M 90, so will try to get 2-sided carpet tape to hold the pieces of mat to the pillars. Depending on how well it sticks - I may use it elsewhere...
Just a heads up, I would doubt yoga mat is a vapor barrier. Usually, it is vapor permeable so you don't slip when you sweat.
 

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Just a heads up, I would doubt yoga mat is a vapor barrier. Usually, it is vapor permeable so you don't slip when you sweat.
I know many of the closed cell foam sleeping pads for use under sleeping bags are proper vapor barriers. Even if not, they can always be sealed with a flexible rubber compatible paint, or covered with carpet.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I know many of the closed cell foam sleeping pads for use under sleeping bags are proper vapor barriers. Even if not, they can always be sealed with a flexible rubber compatible paint, or covered with carpet.
Thats a different material then many yoga mats. Just keep an eye out. I am sure many of the cheaper ones are not vapor permeable
 

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Just a heads up, I would doubt yoga mat is a vapor barrier. Usually, it is vapor permeable so you don't slip when you sweat.

I'm under the impression that yoga mat is closed-cell foam? I have used pieces of it for years as seat padding for my kayaks and catamaran where it gets drenched - it has NEVER absorbed water. The stuff I put in my van surely looks "sealed" - it has a nubby surface to prevent sliding.

However - double-sided carpet tape is NOT holding it tight to the pillar while making a 90-degree bend. I guess I need to get more 3M-90
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm under the impression that yoga mat is closed-cell foam? I have used pieces of it for years as seat padding for my kayaks and catamaran where it gets drenched - it has NEVER absorbed water. The stuff I put in my van surely looks "sealed" - it has a nubby surface to prevent sliding.

However - double-sided carpet tape is NOT holding it tight to the pillar while making a 90-degree bend. I guess I need to get more 3M-90
The idea with the open cell ones is certainly not that they absorb moisture, but that the moisture passes through. Its still plastic/rubber so it shouldn't hold moisture
 

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I used the same type of material (thin polyethylene foam sheet) for filling in window panels etc. The local discount fabric store sells it in 60" widths, 1/8" or 1/4" thickness, and any length. They call it flotation foam. I attached it with spray on contact cement.

You can see some in the window indents, on the right wall, in the third photo of this post. The 1/4" thickness works nicely there.

The foam is closed cell.
 
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