[Canuck77]

My partner and I are building an adventure van, here in Calgary, Canada. As everyone's aware, it's **** getting a van right now, and it took us a long time to find something decent. Lots of people selling junk for $30k. We ended up taking on an abandoned Transit order that was half-way through the Ford build queue. As such, we didn't get to choose our options, but the important stuff (AWD, color, high roof, size) were what we wanted. Roughly, the van spec is as follows:

• 2021 Transit AWD, normally aspirated, 148" non-extended, high roof, 4.something axle ratio
• Upfitter switches, modified wiring harness, dual AGMs

We're planning a two-person-plus-dog build for general adventuring, weekend and week-long getaways and some road trips to see the country. We're unlikely to want to live full-time in the van for too long, so it's optimized for tripping rather than living. At the moment we're thinking the build will include:

• Convertible queen bed for north-south sleeping that shrinks to about half length during the day, with tri-fold mattress
• Driver and passenger side aftermarket CRL T-vent windows
• Swivel front seats and behind-the-driver 2-person bench to create a front living area, with porta pottie
• Renogy electrical setup. 300 Ah of lithium, 60A B2B charger, 2000W inverter/charger, 200W solar with MPPT controller
• 22G wheel-well fresh water tank, small electric water tank, rear outdoor shower
• Remora roof rack, roof patio, usual extras such as MaxxFan, WeBoost

Over the past year we've been devouring YouTube, and of course reading the excellent threads here. We're thinking the following key build elements will be important:

• 8020 aluminium for the bed frame and other major framing (thank you Humble Road, Seven O Savage, @orton and @gregoryx ) but with a "hidden framing" style, covering the metal with wood or fabric.
• Vinyl sheet flooring, on top of a @Hein supplied insulation kit, walls with thinsulate (again from Hein, big shout out to @atoine from Far Out Ride)
• Electrical largely following the Far Out Ride guide, with a few tweaks (250 amp disaster fusing, which allows slightly smaller bus bars and some lighter wiring)

I'm sure there's lots I've forgotten. In the usual style I'll be posting build updates as we go, please throw in any advice or comments, we appreciate it very much.

We're also doing the instagram thing: Login • Instagram

 

[Canuck77]

Starting with the roof vent. MaxxFan over @Hein / DIYVan adaptor. Plenty of lap sealant.

Test fit on the water tank. There's a disappointing amount of wasted space going on here, but we'll probably just insulate the snot out of the wheel well.

 

[Canuck77]

Floor. 0.4" minicell between the ribs, then 3M TAI from the DIYVan kit, then 0.25" minicell.

The floor is half inch Russian plywood, with biscuits at the joints. We made one boo-boo in our cutting so ended up with 4 total pieces instead of 3. Glued down to the minicell using 3M 77 (I'd rather use 90 but it's kinda like gold dust).

Vinyl sheet flooring. The tip I'd give here is to take your time, read the instructions for the adhesive (need to leave it to off-gas for a few minutes before putting the vinyl down) and get a really good roller. We used a rolling pin and it turned out ok, but if I'm being picky I can see the small bubbles in the vinyl. But it looks good and we won't notice that once the build is in.

Final picture for this sequence is actually of a problem. I posted a specific thread about this -- can you spot the issue?

 

[Canuck77]

Window install. CR Laurence T-vent. These windows aren't glued, they have a mechanical connection with a screw-in inner frame. This was much harder and much less fun than the YouTubes show. Cutting the hole is fraught -- if you stray just slightly off the intended line, you can go from cutting a single sheet of metal to two (the structure around the window) and it can easily cause the jigsaw to veer off track. We ended up with a pretty ragged looking frame.

Unfortunately, we cut it too small, and spent the next several hours (over two afternoons) grinding and filing down the metal to wedge the window into the frame. We got it there, but it seemed like a lot of effort. Lots of cleanup needed, including with a magnetic broom to get those tiny specks from the grinding.

We're also sporting a Remora roof rack, which seems very well made and it sure looks the part. Rack is installed and we 'gooped' the 8 unused roof entry spots with Dicor, so hopefully they won't leak.

 

[gregoryx]

Off to a great start! Bravo! 👏 🤘 👍

 

[takedown]

Looking great, good work. Love the color.

 

[OURCARSTINKSOFCAMPING]

Looking great!! Who manufactures the wheel water tank you’re using?

 

[Canuck77]

Looking great!! Who manufactures the wheel water tank you’re using?

Not sure of the manufacture but we got it from Curious Campervans. We’re in Canada so we look for suppliers this side of the border where possible.

 

[Canuck77]

Some progress over the last two weeks. We wanted to be done drilling holes in the van (ha!) so we got the second CRL window done. Overall I'm a bit 'meh' on these. They look amazing, all dark and OEM, but it's basically impossible to cut the hole large enough without running into "double" sheet metal on the van. I cut slightly conservatively after a bit of a jaggedy edge on the first window, and ended up needing to do lots of angle grinding. But the window is in.

The window T-vents have been a bit of a pain. They don't seem like they come in close enough.

I don't think this is an installation blunder, but it might be. Anyone had a better experience?

For the roof we installed a couple of Renogy double glands, one for the eventual solar panels, one for a WeBoost and a roof lights rough-in. The WeBoost is on a marine antenna mount with a couple of brass step-down adaptors found by two very helpful gentlemen at Home Depot. The idea is that in the spring, we'll mount the base-plate against one of our roof-rack cross bars, and have a WeBoost that can be put up or down. It adds another foot to an already tall van so we liked the up/down setting we had seen on some other vans.

Finally, we made an attempt at the Espar install, but gave up due to difficulty in knowing where to safely drill the passenger seat. We're going to re-think and probably put the heater driver side, approximately midships. This will help with both exhaust and electrical routing but will take up some valuable cabin space. Here's a shot showing plenty of space in the passenger seat well but I guess we'll find a different use for this (we have a dog - some people put doggy stuff under the seat in a drawer).

 

[Benskerwood]

Some progress over the last two weeks. We wanted to be done drilling holes in the van (ha!) so we got the second CRL window done. Overall I'm a bit 'meh' on these. They look amazing, all dark and OEM, but it's basically impossible to cut the hole large enough without running into "double" sheet metal on the van. I cut slightly conservatively after a bit of a jaggedy edge on the first window, and ended up needing to do lots of angle grinding. But the window is in.

View attachment 161838
View attachment 161839

The window T-vents have been a bit of a pain. They don't seem like they come in close enough.

View attachment 161840

View attachment 161841

I don't think this is an installation blunder, but it might be. Anyone had a better experience?

For the roof we installed a couple of Renogy double glands, one for the eventual solar panels, one for a WeBoost and a roof lights rough-in. The WeBoost is on a marine antenna mount with a couple of brass step-down adaptors found by two very helpful gentlemen at Home Depot. The idea is that in the spring, we'll mount the base-plate against one of our roof-rack cross bars, and have a WeBoost that can be put up or down. It adds another foot to an already tall van so we liked the up/down setting we had seen on some other vans.

View attachment 161842
View attachment 161843

Finally, we made an attempt at the Espar install, but gave up due to difficulty in knowing where to safely drill the passenger seat. We're going to re-think and probably put the heater driver side, approximately midships. This will help with both exhaust and electrical routing but will take up some valuable cabin space. Here's a shot showing plenty of space in the passenger seat well but I guess we'll find a different use for this (we have a dog - some people put doggy stuff under the seat in a drawer).

View attachment 161844

We tried a couple windows on the driver side. The first cr had the same problem as yours. I was able to get a new one sent warrantied. The second one was even worse. Never closed, you could see a bit of light through it. I rolled with it for awhile and it worked, didn’t leak when parked in rain. Never drove it in any large storms but I just imagined the dust coming in on some of the roads we drive so I pulled it and installed a van windows direct slider window. I think they are coming out with a t vent as well. I like the window and actually like the sliding feature better. Only complaint is that it is a pain to trim out. The glass is curved and the slider track is glued to the glass, only going as far as the window slides. Not sure if that makes sense but depending on how you want to trim it it can be awkward. I ended up making a ring of wood to fill the space between my panel and painted it black.

 

[gregoryx]

@Canuck77 can you share links to the parts you used for the antenna attachments? I'm totally doing that. Safe me some searching trouble. 🙏

 

[Canuck77]

@Canuck77 can you share links to the parts you used for the antenna attachments? I'm totally doing that. Safe me some searching trouble. 🙏

Marine antenna mount
Step down from 3/4 to 1/2 inch (item picture looks weird but this is the bigger of the two, and the price matches my receipt)
Step down from 1/2 inch to 1/8th

It's a little odd, that marine mount advertises itself as a 1" but it looks like we used a 3/4" adaptor for it. Maybe "1 inch antenna" has a 3/4" screw on the base.

 

[gregoryx]

Awesome. I don't know why I was caught up in the idea that it had to be UP all the time (and I didn't want that). This is great. I'd guess I'll get similar performance with it down as the little baby antenna that's up there now. 🤞

Thanks for the links, @Canuck77 !!

 

[Canuck77]

Not much progress today, but I have checked the location of the C33-E connector and it looks like it has the insert from the factory (2021 AWD Transit). Looks like the WPT-1037 pigtail I bought from Amazon will fit and, coupled with a relay as detailed in @maia 's thread, will give me a D+ engine on signal.

I struggled to get the battery cover back on after my abortive heater install. If I'm disconnecting the battery again, I'd like a faster option than disassembling the whole thing and then taking both negative clamps off. There seems to be a logical location to disconnect the negative wire from the whole assembly (see picture). But the BEMM (yes, I am paying attention) says not to undo this nut. Why not? It looks like it might be a locking nut. It's not the end of the world for me to do it the way Ford says, but I'm curious why simply disconnecting the whole assembly at the negative is against their good word.

 

[seashelly]

We tried a couple windows on the driver side. The first cr had the same problem as yours. I was able to get a new one sent warrantied. The second one was even worse. Never closed, you could see a bit of light through it. I rolled with it for awhile and it worked, didn’t leak when parked in rain. Never drove it in any large storms but I just imagined the dust coming in on some of the roads we drive so I pulled it and installed a van windows direct slider window. I think they are coming out with a t vent as well. I like the window and actually like the sliding feature better. Only complaint is that it is a pain to trim out. The glass is curved and the slider track is glued to the glass, only going as far as the window slides. Not sure if that makes sense but depending on how you want to trim it it can be awkward. I ended up making a ring of wood to fill the space between my panel and painted it black. View attachment 161846

Thank you @Benskerwood for posting the picture of your window. It looks like you used an AdWag kit for your van interior, which is what we plan on doing when (if) we finally take delivery of our 2022. And that is exactly the window I want to install!

 

[Canuck77]

After the abortive heater install, I really wanted to achieve something this week while the weather is still nice (+11C and sunny, which is amazingly good for this time of year in Alberta). Decided to do the passenger swivel seat. We bought the Scopema's due to good reviews and them being the "least height" option. They weigh a ton and seem to be well made.

Install was fairly smooth. Here it is halfway through.

I knew I needed to do something about the rear baby seat metal loop, and had seen a video (or something) where someone claimed they bent the loop by using a heat gun. So I tried that. My first time using a heat gun so maybe I was doing the wrong thing or not giving it long enough, but that sucker is solid and didn't want to bend. I was worried I'd deform the whole back of the seat stand, because it's fairly flimsy.

So back to the angle grinder. I feel bad any time I'm using this thing, feels like I screwed something up. I was especially nervous about lots of sparks inside the van but I tried to protect with a large damp towel. It certainly helped but I'm going to vacuum and use my "magnet broom" to try to get more of it. Here's the loop cut off. Note: I did not need to cut off the front "seat guide" metal spikes. There's at least one video showing these being cut off; for Scopema in my 2021 Transit, they are fine as-is.

I had some scraping of the rails against the plastic of the door on rotation, so I used the grinder to take the rearmost 2-3mm of the seat tracks down to a 45 degree angle. This gives me a hairs breadth of clearance as the seat rotates. I didn't get time to do it today, but tomorrow I'll come back with some black rustoleum and paint all the naked steel. Finished result:

Overall, not that hard. Good videos online to help you. Make sure you have metric tools (for this and many Transit jobs).

 

[Canuck77]

Driver's side swivel install was not as smooth. I made a writeup in one of the Scopema threads to maybe help others in future. But now we have swivels. The driver's side hits the door unless I open it, and it needs centimetres more clearance, not just the millimeters the passenger side required. But I figure it's not the end of the world to crack the driver's door during a swivel. Just need to remember to do it.

So far I've learned that the advice we previously received was right: get factory swivels, and factory glass, if you can. Given the price of the aftermarket swivels and windows, and counting your time and labour, you're basically making money getting the Ford option. But, if we'd done a custom order, we might not have a van yet, and there is something oddly satisfying about taking a brand new $60k automobile and cutting holes in it. And I think we'll appreciate the CRL t-vents come summer.

Obligatory swivels pic.

Not very noticeable, but something I am very happy about, is the little red connector on the bottom of the driver's seat. I used @maia 's relay wiring to get a D+ "engine run" signal from the C33-E connector. Worked first time and I tested the various off/accessory/run/off-again combinations and it seems to do the right thing. This will be input to a Renogy DCDC charger that requires a 'go' signal.

Current work in progress is a 'temporary' bed setup and a shore power inlet. Once we have both of those we could take the thing winter camping as long as there's an electrical hookup, and just plug in an oil heater. So that's the next milestone.

 

[Canuck77]

Inspired by the “you call that a build?!?” thread we made a temporary bed and table and got out there. I’m conflicted about putting effort into things that are not the “final form” but it’s fun to build stuff and fun to see the mountains.

Key learnings: need more insulation, and a better heater. We had an oil heater and while theoretically it was putting 1200W of heat into the van it didn’t really feel like it. -10C overnight and chilly inside. We have thinsulate and some window covers but I think we need more, like low-e to cover exposed metal and maybe a start at ceiling and rear doors and so on.

 

[njvagabond]

So far I've learned that the advice we previously received was right: get factory swivels, and factory glass, if you can

Ford does not offer heated seats if with the swivel option. I suppose you could get aftermarket heaters if you go with factory swivels. People have complained that you cannot swivel the factory seats with out opening the door. I added Scopema swivels to my 2020 on 1/2" spacers (to provide clearance for the power seat wires) and they both can swivel with the doors closed. I did need to make sure the seat rails were pushed all the way forward when I tightened the bolts. Both sides just clear the door. Both sides are like that. Something seems odd that your drivers side is so far off compared to the passengers side. You might want to double check your install, but cutting the excess rail that extends past the mounting hole shouldn't be a big deal.

Factory windows don't open. You also can't pick and choose which positions for independently. Most notably if you want glass in the slider, it only comes glass in the rear doors too. There are also double pane windows available in the aftermarket. No doubt that if the type and location of factory windows fits you needs, that is the best way to go. For example, IIRC all around glass was about $600.

 

[Canuck77]

I'm on a trip visiting family abroad, so no progress (by me) on the van. My partner installed a 12v outlet and heated blanket, thanks to folks for that suggestion.

I'm working on some Sketchup layouts. Surprisingly, we both sort of like the "giant bed using up all the space" layout that is basically the same as our temporary bed setup. North-South bed, kitchen on driver side, porta pottie under little seat by the door, and the foot of the bed used as space for our labradoodle.

Another layout we like a surprising amount is the "giant dinette" style. We're not planning to live full time in the van, so converting the bed might not be the end of the world. The cool thing about this one is that we could make a giant drawer down the middle of the van and reclaim a bit of garage space. This one's not quite so dog friendly (I really don't want him on the bed) but it's probably the best use of space during 'day' mode.

This next one is an East-West bed, which ought to be doable since I'm 5'10 but I'm really not sure yet. I like to kind of point my toes and do all weird stuff getting comfortable, this may feel cramped even if we squeeze 73" out of the crosswise point of the van. This layout adds a bench seat behind the driver, which I really like because we have two CRL windows at the front (slider door and behind driver).

And the final sketch, this is what I originally imagined but am now not sure. This is a convertible bed that extends across the kitchen cabinets for night mode. Because it's extending across kitchen counter (rather than a small dinette as in some builds) it'll be hella tall for a bed. And it'll need some engineering work to get it to actually extend. But I like the idea, I think. I didn't put cabinets in this sketch yet but we would plan on having them like the other drawings.

Any thoughts much appreciated. We're leaning towards continuing to build the "giant bed" first version because that's how our roughed-in bed already is, but we definitely want to build on knowledge from the community.