Ford Transit USA Forum banner

The electrical guts of the House system

45699 Views 92 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Airedrifter
I'm building a electrical system for the Camper Van.

Here's the gist:

2 house batteries -- 125 AH ea

2 vehicle batteries -- 76 AH ea

1100/2200 Watt inverter

Ctek battery system with alternator charging of all 4 batteries and shore power charging of all 4 batteries

Bypass for charging vehicle batteries from house batteries, in emerg...

fuse panel for extra lights, usb charges, 12 vlt aux ports,

vlt meters for each bank

Here's the photo of the most of the parts without the house batteries.

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 5
81 - 93 of 93 Posts
After a month with a single 150watt solar panel, I can categorically say that a single panel is not worth the effort, for my uses.

It gets complicated in that the Ctek charge controller I use has a complicated charging routine -- particularly from 90% to 100% of the battery bank capacity. As it is the charge controller that dictates when to use the electrical sources, I find that the solar panel is only contributing about 10 AH a day. On a 400AH battery bank, that's not a lot. I suppose that it would power led lights and charge a phone, but it had little contribution to the powering the fridge or microwave.

It's been an interesting learning process and I now know a good bit more about monitoring an electrical system. However, for my purposes -- where most of the roof area is used by a platform rack -- solar is meh...
When I calculated my solar panel system, with the help of forum members, I would be safe using a 320 watt panel for a 240 to 260AH battery. So I would assume that a total of 700 or more watts of panel would be needed in your case to see a significant effect on charging your 400AH battery. 150 is simply too small as you have discovered. Other than that, would you purchase the CTEK system again? I thought about going that route, but I believe I read that it isn't really rated for systems over 200AHs.
Yes. I can't complain about Ctek. It has worked for 2 years and has been right on. My problems/confusion arrived with a larger inverter and the attention I gave to system in it's second configuration. Ctek has not been a problem and Ctek techs are so far top notch in helping you diagnose what's going on.

Ctek d250swith SmartPass will power up to 800AH
You have covered the problem. 150 watts is not enough and you need the roof space to install the correct size.

I have a single 300 watt panel with a MPPT controller and it provides all the power I need. Do have a backup charging method if weather conditions force its use which is almost never. Of course it depends on where you live and your power usage. Solar panels are not too useful when covered by a foot of snow.

I have a 85 liter refrigerator, a microwave and the usual LED lights and water pump. Highly recommend a "state of charge" meter so you know what SOC the house battery is at.
I'll be surprised if in use, 300watts is enough. You're, in the best of situations, at about 3AH of usage. That's around 60AH a day. My math says that's a deficit. That's fine if like me, most days the van gets used and the alternator contributes, though in your case, shorter alternator charging periods aren't able to maximize alternator output.

I'll be interested in your performance when it gets used.
During my quest to go solar I found that flat solar panels don't produce at their maximum output for as long as you might think. While they might work to just maintain my system a 300watt system would never be sufficient to recover my daily usage. I weighed the cost against the benefits and in my situation the numbers just did not work out. Still, I really wanted solar so I emailed Victron and they put they final nail in the coffin. When someone that sells the equipment says it's just not cost effective in my situation I tend to believe them.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I'll be surprised if in use, 300watts is enough. You're, in the best of situations, at about 3AH of usage. That's around 60AH a day. My math says that's a deficit. That's fine if like me, most days the van gets used and the alternator contributes, though in your case, shorter alternator charging periods aren't able to maximize alternator output.

I'll be interested in your performance when it gets used.
A little background:

Originally installed a 135 watt panel on the sold 08 Sprinter because that was the largest panel size that could be shipped UPS to avoid high shipping costs. That panel would almost keep up with my power needs if weather was full sunlight.

Removed that panel and installed a 205 watt single panel. That panel would keep up with my electrical usage in good weather.

Sold Sprinter after 5 years and started a second conversion. Transit has the same physical size panel but it is rated at 300 watts. Used the same electrical components as the Sprinter had. Single 255 amp-hr Lifeline 8D AGM battery, Magnum Energy MMS1012 inverter/charger/transfer switch and a 15 amp Morningstar Sunsaver MPPT solar controller. Same results in the Transit that I had in the Sprinter. Almost no need to use any charging other than the solar panel.

I do not directly connect the house battery to the vehicle battery for charging for a number of reasons. I do have two backup methods of charging. I can use the house inverter/charger to charge from shore power or from "shore power" from a 1000 watt inverter powered by the Transit 12 volt system. Have not used either backup yet on the Transit. In fact just completed the wiring so I can now do that if I ever need it.

My normal SOC overnight was 93% in the morning with the Sprinter. Sprinter had a 80 liter Dometic compressor type front opening refrigerator. Bought a Vitrifrigo 85 liter front opening refrigerator for the new Transit build. It has the same compressor but instead of a coil on the back of the refrigerator it has a radiator and small fan similar to what chest type refrigerators use. Now my SOC in the morning is 95% to 96%. Apparently the different design uses less power.

My refrigerator install is different than a lot of conversions. I make the cabinet larger so I can add additional polyiso insulation around the refrigerator. Transit has 3" additional insulation on top, bottom and the sides. Since coil is not on the back I glued 2" of closed cell foam on back of the VItrifrigo. I also have a 4" square hole in the van floor directly behind and below the refrigerator. Cooler air flows through the floor hole to the refrigerator and out the unpowered open Maxxair roof vent. In addition I do not heat the van at night. I let van interior get cold at night and I stay warm with a 12 volt heating pad. Refrigerator runs less in a cold van. When I used the 600 watt (1140 watt actual) microwave in the Sprinter it used 1% of my battery capacity for every two minutes of use. Bought different brand 600 watt microwave for the Transit. Almost identical microwave but it only draws 950 watts. Think they were both manufactured my same company with different brands but new one has been improved.

So I do have a few years worth of using the systems.

Last August I spent 5 days in Monterey with 75% overcast sky's. Pulled into my driveway after the 5 days at 100% SOC. No charging other than solar. In October spent 5 days camping in Paradise Ca. Parked in a total shade location. Did take one ride with the group when van was in the sun for several hours. Got down to 83% SOC. Could have used the vehicle powered inverter to charge but it was not yet wired. Last day it rained and on the drive home it rained. Turned off the refrigerator when I got home. Took 6 days to get back to 100% SOC in rainy weather. It gained about 2-3% each day in the rain.

As I said before we all have different weather and use different amounts of power. So the results will be different for each of us. I do know the single 300 watt solar panel does work for my application.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
A little background:

Originally installed a 135 watt panel on the sold 08 Sprinter because that was the largest panel size that could be shipped UPS to avoid high shipping costs. That panel would almost keep up with my power needs if weather was full sunlight.

Removed that panel and installed a 205 watt single panel. That panel would keep up with my electrical usage in good weather.

Sold Sprinter after 5 years and started a second conversion. Transit has the same physical size panel but it is rated at 300 watts. Used the same electrical components as the Sprinter had. Single 255 amp-hr Lifeline 8D AGM battery, Magnum Energy MMS1012 inverter/charger/transfer switch and a 15 amp Morningstar Sunsaver MPPT solar controller. Same results in the Transit that I had in the Sprinter. Almost no need to use any charging other than the solar panel.

I do not directly connect the house battery to the vehicle battery for charging for a number of reasons. I do have two backup methods of charging. I can use the house inverter/charger to charge from shore power or from "shore power" from a 1000 watt inverter powered by the Transit 12 volt system. Have not used either backup yet on the Transit. In fact just completed the wiring so I can now do that if I ever need it.

My normal SOC overnight was 93% in the morning with the Sprinter. Sprinter had a 80 liter Dometic compressor type front opening refrigerator. Bought a Vitrifrigo 85 liter front opening refrigerator for the new Transit build. It has the same compressor but instead of a coil on the back of the refrigerator it has a radiator and small fan similar to what chest type refrigerators use. Now my SOC in the morning is 95% to 96%. Apparently the different design uses less power.

My refrigerator install is different than a lot of conversions. I make the cabinet larger so I can add additional polyiso insulation around the refrigerator. Transit has 3" additional insulation on top, bottom and the sides. Since coil is not on the back I glued 2" of closed cell foam on back of the VItrifrigo. I also have a 4" square hole in the van floor directly behind and below the refrigerator. Cooler air flows through the floor hole to the refrigerator and out the unpowered open Maxxair roof vent. In addition I do not heat the van at night. I let van interior get cold at night and I stay warm with a 12 volt heating pad. Refrigerator runs less in a cold van. When I used the 600 watt (1140 watt actual) microwave in the Sprinter it used 1% of my battery capacity for every two minutes of use. Bought different brand 600 watt microwave for the Transit. Almost identical microwave but it only draws 950 watts. Think they were both manufactured my same company with different brands but new one has been improved.

So I do have a few years worth of using the systems.

Last August I spent 5 days in Monterey with 75% overcast sky's. Pulled into my driveway after the 5 days at 100% SOC. No charging other than solar. In October spent 5 days camping in Paradise Ca. Parked in a total shade location. Did take one ride with the group when van was in the sun for several hours. Got down to 83% SOC. Could have used the vehicle powered inverter to charge but it was not yet wired. Last day it rained and on the drive home it rained. Turned off the refrigerator when I got home. Took 6 days to get back to 100% SOC in rainy weather. It gained about 2-3% each day in the rain.

As I said before we all have different weather and use different amounts of power. So the results will be different for each of us. I do know the single 300 watt solar panel does work for my application.
You're a better mathematician than I am.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
You're a better mathematician than I am.
Do not know about the math. Never bothered to pay any attention. System just works. I do check the SOC meter every couple of days just to be sure everything is happy. I do have 4 small loads that run all the time so SOC is usually at 99% each morning when van is not in use.

I did find it lower one morning so looked for the cause. Somehow I had hit the CB between the panel and the controller and it was off. Solar panel has a hard time charging when it is disconnected. The other day I was confused because the SOC meter read 0%. After a bit of checking I saw where I had turned off the house 12 volt power because I was wiring in the water pump. Finally figured out that the Magnum BMK is powered and fused from my 12 volt fuse panel. With power off to the BMK, it was not sending information to the meter. Once power was restored the Magnum, meter took some time to display 100% SOC. It had to recalculate after power was restored.

I just let the panel do its thing but do pay attention to the SOC. Unfortunately I do not care about all the other information the Magnum meter can display so can not give any amperage readings. Maybe some day I will plot the charging amperage for the day. Might be nice to know.

I did recently change the van wiring so I can now heat shower water 3 ways. Shore power, "shore power" from the vehicle powered inverter or by turning on the house inverter. Because I have excess solar power, I wanted to use that excess power to heat shower water if weather conditions permit. Using the house battery allows me to heat the water without running the Transit engine. If my math is correct it will deplete the 255 amp-hr. battery about 10% to heat the water. If I know the sun will be shining, then I can heat the water and still get back to 100% SOC that day. Have yet to wire the heating element in the shower water heater so will have to wait to see if my math is correct.

One other point: I cook with propane.
See less See more
:)

In this last version, I got an amp meter for the solar panel, a Xantrex LinkPRO for the house batteries, a Ctek battery monitor, and a Kill a Watt meter. so I'm all into data at the present.
Airedrifter, thanks for the van photos. It's nice to see the pieces in place in your van. They look really good. Especially the module in the shelf above the driver. It looks like it was meant to be there.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
In the wild.


Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
So, I went on a 10 day trip. 1701 miles.

This was a typical river/outdoor type trip for us with the bonus of an eclipse. There was me, my wife, my 13yr old son, and 2 of his friends. We were on 3 different rivers on 4 different days, we had 3 serious hikes and one nice stroll in Joyce Kilmer, we stayed in a hotel 2 nights, we stayed in our friends' driveway 2 nights, 3 nights in campgrounds (one with power), and three nights in the boonies without any amenities.

The boys (and I) were tough on the electrical system. (the solar panel got it's first walk on -- no damage). The boys had lots of "electronics" that need charging and they got 3 hours a day of game time on the game console. At the eclipse site, we had a bunch (maybe 10) of people using the various charging stations. And the dimmable rack lights were a big hit. Everyday, excepting one day at our friend's, the van moved. The battery bank stayed above 70% most all the time, though the Sunday night before the Eclipse, after only a little driving on Saturday and no charge excepting some sun, the batteries dropped to 48%. I started with 400ah of battery bank, but in loading for the trip, I just didn't like how the new batteries got in the way and didn't have time to remount them, so we only took 200ah. The 400 would have given us plenty of reserve so as to make charging a non-issue.

I'm guessing that we used about 60ah a day. The one day we had the battery bank run down some and parked it in bright sun, the solar panel contributed 22ah! That's an installation record. I'd say the solar panel averaged a bit over 10ah of daily contribution. I saw several at 6 or 7 and several at 12 to 14. (I note that the Ctek blends the solar panel charge with either shore power or alternator power. The day we got 22ah from the solar panel was a day we drove over 300 miles.) I have a 100 ah battery in our adventure trailer. I use it to run blowers for the rafts and a fairly elaborate indoor and outdoor lighting system in the trailer. The trailer battery has a Ctek 7amp ac charger. One day, we charged it from the van inverter. :)

All in all we're happy. I see a need to do some work on changing and incorporating the OEM dome lights into our switch panels. It will be a good lesson in switch logic. :)
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 4
So, I went on a 10 day trip. 1701 miles.

This was a typical river/outdoor type trip for us with the bonus of an eclipse. There was me, my wife, my 13yr old son, and 2 of his friends. We were on 3 different rivers on 4 different days, we had 3 serious hikes and one nice stroll in Joyce Kilmer, we stayed in a hotel 2 nights, we stayed in our friends' driveway 2 nights, 3 nights in campgrounds (one with power), and three nights in the boonies without any amenities.

The boys (and I) were tough on the electrical system. (the solar panel got it's first walk on -- no damage). The boys had lots of "electronics" that need charging and they got 3 hours a day of game time on the game console. At the eclipse site, we had a bunch (maybe 10) of people using the various charging stations. And the dimmable rack lights were a big hit. Everyday, excepting one day at our friend's, the van moved. The battery bank stayed above 70% most all the time, though the Sunday night before the Eclipse, after only a little driving on Saturday and no charge excepting some sun, the batteries dropped to 48%. I started with 400ah of battery bank, but in loading for the trip, I just didn't like how the new batteries got in the way and didn't have time to remount them, so we only took 200ah. The 400 would have given us plenty of reserve so as to make charging a non-issue.

I'm guessing that we used about 60ah a day. The one day we had the battery bank run down some and parked it in bright sun, the solar panel contributed 22ah! That's an installation record. I'd say the solar panel averaged a bit over 10ah of daily contribution. I saw several at 6 or 7 and several at 12 to 14. (I note that the Ctek blends the solar panel charge with either shore power or alternator power. The day we got 22ah from the solar panel was a day we drove over 300 miles.) I have a 100 ah battery in our adventure trailer. I use it to run blowers for the rafts and a fairly elaborate indoor and outdoor lighting system in the trailer. The trailer battery has a Ctek 7amp ac charger. One day, we charged it from the van inverter. :)

All in all we're happy. I see a need to do some work on changing and incorporating the OEM dome lights into our switch panels. It will be a good lesson in switch logic. :)
That trip definitely helped you understand the capacity and function of your house system. I can't wait to do the first shakedown of my system. Your information is helpful.
Just a note. I'm into the third year with my system and it is working well. I am still a big CTEK fan.

My last change included a KISAE pure wave inverter. It has been a silent partner since installation. It was cheapish and works. Today I got a look at the KISAE Abso 3000 Pure Sine Inverter/Charger. That is a nice unit. Excepting the lack of a second 12v input for solar charging, this is a near perfect unit. I'll be keeping it in mind for the 4wd van #2 . I expect CTEK will make something similar. But this is simplicity central. A pit pricey but not really.

https://www.donrowe.com/KISAE-Abso-3000-p/ic1230150.htm
  • Like
Reactions: 1
81 - 93 of 93 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top