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The electrical guts of the House system

45698 Views 92 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Airedrifter
I'm building a electrical system for the Camper Van.

Here's the gist:

2 house batteries -- 125 AH ea

2 vehicle batteries -- 76 AH ea

1100/2200 Watt inverter

Ctek battery system with alternator charging of all 4 batteries and shore power charging of all 4 batteries

Bypass for charging vehicle batteries from house batteries, in emerg...

fuse panel for extra lights, usb charges, 12 vlt aux ports,

vlt meters for each bank

Here's the photo of the most of the parts without the house batteries.

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OK, brain fart. Now I get it.
I just added one for the house bank and one for the van batteries. :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01976BXYE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2IS69AN9A0OWP
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Recently my inverter, a 1100 watt Energizer, crapped out. It shorted out somewhere and went into a full drain on the house batteries. The Ctek system shut down and went into protection mode.

I had been planning on replacing the inverter anyway as the 1100 watt was a bit small and it would heat up when running the microwave and shut down. I had planned on getting a 3000 watt inverter. However, in researching the issue, I decided to go with a sine wave instead of the square wave inverter and 3000 watt sine wave inverters were very pricy. I ended up with this one and found it at Home Depot web site for a good price (I note that it has increased in price about $30) http://www.homedepot.com/p/KISAE-2-000-Watt-Sine-Wave-Inverter-SW1220/203511000

I've got it all back together and the system is purring again. We'll see if the sine wave makes a difference and if the 2000 watts is sufficient. It should be as I never expect to pull that much and wanted a bigger inverter so that it loped instead of being on the edge.

Sawyer
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your inverter is probably rated for 2000 watts peak power, at best it probably puts out 1000 watts continuous. my inverter puts out 2000 watts continuous and costs more then 5 times as much as that one. (of course my inverter has a battery charger but i do not see the charger costing more then 1/3 to 1/2 of my total price.)
your inverter is probably rated for 2000 watts peak power, at best it probably puts out 1000 watts continuous. my inverter puts out 2000 watts continuous and costs more then 5 times as much as that one. (of course my inverter has a battery charger but i do not see the charger costing more then 1/3 to 1/2 of my total price.)
No. According to the factory specs it is specifically rated 2000 watts continuous.
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SO cord is suitable for up to 600 volts, SJO is junior cord and is suitable for up to 300 volts. SJO is less expensive and has smaller insulation.
150 watt solar panel installed and working. :)
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I've got fuse blocks up the yin yang for the 12 volt system but realized I need one for the output side of my inverter. Originally I had planned to have only one outlet wired to the inverter but decided I should have a couple more.

Any recommendations for a suitable fuse block with provision for negative terminals as well? I'm looking for something simple, no more than three of four terminal connections necessary.

My inverter is a MorningStar 300W, wondering if a DC fuse block wouldn't be sufficient.
I've got fuse blocks up the yin yang for the 12 volt system but realized I need one for the output side of my inverter. Originally I had planned to have only one outlet wired to the inverter but decided I should have a couple more.

Any recommendations for a suitable fuse block with provision for negative terminals as well? I'm looking for something simple, no more than three of four terminal connections necessary.

My inverter is a MorningStar 300W, wondering if a DC fuse block wouldn't be sufficient.
Home depot has a two circuit breaker box that is small and works well. I run two of them. One for my shore power and one for my inverter. Your inverter has a floating ground so don't tie the neutral to the ground.

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I've got fuse blocks up the yin yang for the 12 volt system but realized I need one for the output side of my inverter. Originally I had planned to have only one outlet wired to the inverter but decided I should have a couple more.

Any recommendations for a suitable fuse block with provision for negative terminals as well? I'm looking for something simple, no more than three of four terminal connections necessary.

My inverter is a MorningStar 300W, wondering if a DC fuse block wouldn't be sufficient.

I think you're over thinking it. :) If you just have a couple of AC uses, just get a good breakered extension cord.
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Your Morningstar installation manual shows a 3 amp fuse.
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I think you're over thinking it. :) If you just have a couple of AC uses, just get a good breakered extension cord.
Agree, I just reread the original post, I thought I saw 3000 watt but now see it was a 300 watt.

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OK, thank you all. I have several in-line fuse holders and 3 amp fuses to go with them. Now I have a use for them.
very cool. I have a single battery system in my Transit 150 and just replaced it with an Interstate AGM. (There's a backstory to this, having to do with owning a VW Diesel and them giving me 500 bucks to spend and since I'm returning the car and not dealing with VW anymore I had 500 bucks I needed to spend yada yada yada)

At any rate, I thought it was important to match the starter battery with the house battery as far as format was concerned (Victron AGM 200ah) So far so good CTEK is great and charge rates are excellent. Bonus is that I don't have to check battery levels anymore which is a PITA.
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Some updates.

I smoked the cheapo 1100 watt inverter. I tried to get a 3000 amp sine wave but that level is expensive. I ended up with a 2000 watt sine wave for under 300.

The new inverter wouldn't fit in the box I built for the system and soon I was thinking outside the box. My rear sleeping platform is supported by a frame that attaches to the seat rails. So I boxed off one whole side, completely dismantled the wiring and moved.

One benefit was that I was able to move the batteries to where it is easier to check the water levels and sg.

I added a bunch in the move and I'll try to explain. I added a 150 watt solar panel, a rear power panel (I'll add photos in a bit.) I put a thermostat controled circulating fan, another set of house switches, on the front panel I added dimmers for the led corner rack lights, interiror reading lights, an inline power meter for the solar panel, and a Xantrex Link Pro power monitor. I added a central charging station, with a smart blueray, and a 23" monitor, (I also added a new smoke/carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguisher)

After more work that I had imagined, it all works. But to tell the truth, I'm disappointed in the solar panel and all the work that went into it. I only allowed, what I thought was generous, 1 bay for a solar panel in my rack system. It's not enough and I don't know for sure if it's enough to even justify it. I can't add more without changing the design purpose of the whole shebang.

The solar panel puts out around 12 to 15 amphours a day. On a 200 ah bank, it sorta pays for itself. It's not enough to run the ineffienct (but cheap) 120v dorm fridge. Running it is about 4.5 to 6 amps. :(

I'm taking a break from working on the dang thing and getting it out in the wild for a long weekend. :)
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How do you get wiring from the rear of the van (I mean from anywhere behind the driver's seat) to the overhead compartments?
Up the C pillar, under (on top) of the head liner, through hole in liner at A pillar.

On the third picture above, you can see the bundle coming out of the liner.
After a month with a single 150watt solar panel, I can categorically say that a single panel is not worth the effort, for my uses.

It gets complicated in that the Ctek charge controller I use has a complicated charging routine -- particularly from 90% to 100% of the battery bank capacity. As it is the charge controller that dictates when to use the electrical sources, I find that the solar panel is only contributing about 10 AH a day. On a 400AH battery bank, that's not a lot. I suppose that it would power led lights and charge a phone, but it had little contribution to the powering the fridge or microwave.

It's been an interesting learning process and I now know a good bit more about monitoring an electrical system. However, for my purposes -- where most of the roof area is used by a platform rack -- solar is meh...
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After a month with a single 150watt solar panel, I can categorically say that a single panel is not worth the effort, for my uses.

where most of the roof area is used by a platform rack -- solar is meh...
You have covered the problem. 150 watts is not enough and you need the roof space to install the correct size.

I have a single 300 watt panel with a MPPT controller and it provides all the power I need. Do have a backup charging method if weather conditions force its use which is almost never. Of course it depends on where you live and your power usage. Solar panels are not too useful when covered by a foot of snow.

I have a 85 liter refrigerator, a microwave and the usual LED lights and water pump. Highly recommend a "state of charge" meter so you know what SOC the house battery is at.
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