[Airedrifter]

I'm building a electrical system for the Camper Van.

Here's the gist:

2 house batteries -- 125 AH ea

2 vehicle batteries -- 76 AH ea

1100/2200 Watt inverter

Ctek battery system with alternator charging of all 4 batteries and shore power charging of all 4 batteries

Bypass for charging vehicle batteries from house batteries, in emerg...

fuse panel for extra lights, usb charges, 12 vlt aux ports,

vlt meters for each bank

Here's the photo of the most of the parts without the house batteries.

 

[Airedrifter]

Anyone have a photo or the particulars on the dual battery setup under my seat?

I haven't gotten to that yet and I wanted to go by and get some Anderson plugs and connecting cables made up. I just wondered what the battery configuration was so as to have the proper ends made up.

I'll tear it down to see if no one has anything...

 

[KeithW]

Thanks for taking the time to share this. I am into working out a plan and component for the electrical side of this.

First, about the dual batteries picture, Ford has a video on line that shows how to install and remove the batteries. You will be able to see the layout.
Ford, Lincoln or Mercury How-To & Info Videos | Official Ford Owner Site

A couple of questions on the Ctek:

U.S. Ctek source?

Source for or info showing how the Ctek is wired - output from vehicle alternator, isolation function, charger for house batteries, etc.

Why two house batteries instead of one larger one (just curious)?

Which inverter are you using?

KeithW

 

[PeterR]

You guys are aware of orton's DIY thread? Lots of info. on batteries etc. there, and in his many posts in different threads here.

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/camper-vans-conversions/1985-orton-diy.html

 

[KeithW]

Yep, thanks - a great resource.

I have downloaded his wiring diagram and am following his threads. He has done a wonderful job of documenting his projects. Good insights. Experience counts.

KeithW

 

[orton]

I'm building a electrical system for the Camper Van.

Here's the gist:

2 house batteries -- 125 AH ea

2 vehicle batteries -- 76 AH ea

1100/2200 Watt inverter

Ctek battery system with alternator charging of all 4 batteries and shore power charging of all 4 batteries

Bypass for charging vehicle batteries from house batteries, in emerg...

fuse panel for extra lights, usb charges, 12 vlt aux ports,

vlt meters for each bank

Here's the photo of the most of the parts without the house batteries.

Comment: I used "SO" cords for wiring in the Sprinter. Found that made it much easier than using wire and conduits. Also avoided any wiring buried in the walls. Just ran the "SO" cords behind or through cabinets. Did put cords in the 1 1/2" thick floor and in the ceiling for the LED lights. All the 120 volt cords were 14/3 and the 12 volt cords were 12/2 and 16/2. For LED lighting I ran the 12/2 to a 5 terminal terminal block and from there used 16/2 to the LED's. "SO" cord are smaller than conduit and can have a smaller bend radius.

 

[orton]

Yep, thanks - a great resource.

I have downloaded his wiring diagram and am following his threads. He has done a wonderful job of documenting his projects. Good insights. Experience counts.

KeithW

Attached is the latest version in PDF format. Have made a couple of changes in last few days. The main difference to this design is the use of two inverters. I do not want to directly connect the house battery to the Transit alternator. Prefer to always charge the house battery with a quality 3 stage charger.

 

[KeithW]

Thanks, I will check it out.

My thought with Ctek is to use it (SmartPass plus their Charger) to charge the large AGM battery taking alternator output from Transit (or shore power or solar) without going through an inverter for the charging.

The Ctek install manual is here: http://www.ctek.com/Archive/ProductManualPdf/D250S DUAL_EN.pdf

What do you see as the downside of this approach? Or, perhaps, said another way, what are the reasons for keeping the house battery entirely separate from the Transit charging system?

Hope the question makes sense. I am very much in learning mode on this.

Let me add my thanks for your documentation. It is an inspiration as I plan this.

KeithW

 

[orton]

Thanks, I will check it out.

My thought with Ctek is to use it (SmartPass plus their Charger) to charge the large AGM battery taking alternator output from Transit (or shore power or solar) without going through an inverter for the charging.

The Ctek install manual is here: http://www.ctek.com/Archive/ProductManualPdf/D250S DUAL_EN.pdf

What do you see as the downside of this approach? Or, perhaps, said another way, what are the reasons for keeping the house battery entirely separate from the Transit charging system?

Hope the question makes sense. I am very much in learning mode on this.

Let me add my thanks for your documentation. It is an inspiration as I plan this.

KeithW

Do not know anything about the Ctek approach. I am not an expert and know just enough to be dangerous. Take my comments with that in mind.

The reason I separated the house 12 volt system from the vehicle 12 volt system was my fear of the Sprinter electrical system. Did not want to integrate with the Sprinter electrical. My house 12 volt system was not even grounded to the vehicle. I also read that connecting two different batteries of different size, type, age or mfg. was not recommended. Also read that it was better to charge the house battery with a 3 stage (bulk,absorb, float) charger that could be programmed for a charge profile that is matched to the house battery characteristics. So the two inverter design seemed to satisfy these issues. System worked well in the Sprinter so will copy it with some revisions for the transit build.

 

[Airedrifter]

Thanks for taking the time to share this. I am into working out a plan and component for the electrical side of this.

First, about the dual batteries picture, Ford has a video on line that shows how to install and remove the batteries. You will be able to see the layout.
Ford, Lincoln or Mercury How-To & Info Videos | Official Ford Owner Site

A couple of questions on the Ctek:

U.S. Ctek source?

Source for or info showing how the Ctek is wired - output from vehicle alternator, isolation function, charger for house batteries, etc.

Why two house batteries instead of one larger one (just curious)?

Which inverter are you using?

KeithW

Thanks for the video, I'll watch it. Though I just spent lunch tearing out the cover on the batteries.

I'm a bit all over the place on sourcing the Ctek. I got the s250d on Ebay at a good price, the Smartpass on Amazon, and the 2500 AC charger at the local battery house.

Here's a video where I got a few ideas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjqcOAjT4W4

I'm using two batteries instead of one for cost reasons. The whole thing has gotten out of control. I can get a couple of deep cycle wet batteries for about $175.

The local battery house had an (old stock) Eveready Inverter with a remote control for cheap and I got it. He said that he hadn't had any complaints and had sold a number of them... we'll see...

I'll almost be done tonight.

 

[Longboard]

I'm using two batteries instead of one for cost reasons. The whole thing has gotten out of control. I can get a couple of deep cycle wet batteries for about $175.

How will you vent the wet batteries?

 

[Airedrifter]

The amount of hydrogen venting into the van's main compartment is miniscule to the volume. No explosion problems that I can imagine.

 

[orton]

The amount of hydrogen venting into the van's main compartment is miniscule to the volume. No explosion problems that I can imagine.

Most conversions with flooded batteries installed inside put the batteries in a sealed box with a drain hole and a air source at the top. Hydrogen gas is heavier than air so that is the reason for drain hole. AGM batteries are more expensive but are sealed and do not gas off like a flooded battery. AGM does not require a sealed box.

 

[Zyzzyx]

Dave,


I think you're thinking of propane venting. Propane is heavier than air, thus a floor vent. Hydrogen is lighter than air. (think Hindenburg).

 

[orton]

Dave,


I think you're thinking of propane venting. Propane is heavier than air, thus a floor vent. Hydrogen is lighter than air. (think Hindenburg).

Dah. Brain fade. You are correct. But most auto mfg. put a vent tube on the battery to vent gases to outside.

 

[Airedrifter]

 

[PeterR]

[snip -- photos hidden]

Thanks.

Is the unit standing on one end in the top photo, compared to the bottom one?

 

[Airedrifter]

The unit will operate on a lockable sliding drawer that comes off my bed frame.

The one pic is the front panel that everyone will see and will be the control center and the other photo is looking down through the top. As it will sit right under the bed platform, I'm not currently planning on putting a top on the box.

 

[Airedrifter]

I agree - though I had to look up "SO" cords.

Comment: I used "SO" cords for wiring in the Sprinter. Found that made it much easier than using wire and conduits. Also avoided any wiring buried in the walls. Just ran the "SO" cords behind or through cabinets. Did put cords in the 1 1/2" thick floor and in the ceiling for the LED lights. All the 120 volt cords were 14/3 and the 12 volt cords were 12/2 and 16/2. For LED lighting I ran the 12/2 to a 5 terminal terminal block and from there used 16/2 to the LED's. "SO" cord are smaller than conduit and can have a smaller bend radius.

If you look close at the photo, there's a long outdoor 3/12 cord on the left. That's what I'm using for wire outside the box, excepting the battery leads.

Good call.

 

[Airedrifter]

Here's a couple of photos of the batteries and battery well of my factory dual battery setup.

I couldn't get any technical details on the batteries as to whether they are deep cycle or not. Could be, seems like I heard or read that somewhere. But, it wouldn't technically be required or expected in the designed application.

The battery well of the photo shows a line from the back Positive post to my Anderson plug. I didn't totally disassemble the metal retainer and plastic cover to measure clearances. I just gave it a SWAG glance. It didn't fit that way. The seat binded before fully retracted. As it's a made up custom Anderson unit, I'm not going to get it redone.

I'm going to just connect it up on the front post. I don't think it makes a difference.

The last photo is of the auto AC transfer switch that supplies distributed AC. It automatically chooses between shore power (preferred) and inverter power. That way, there are not two sets of AC outlets (House and Shore) to be distributed.