Piano hinges do not apply here since this is a slide out pantry, but I am planning to use them on cabinets with opening doors. However I will mostly be doing drawers since I like not having to dig inside a cabinet.
I like these catch latches, that might be helpful. I spent some time futzing with the latch - I moved the bracket a bit further, and attached some thin rubber piece I had with VHB tape. Rattling has improved significantly, but something is still rattling. No idea if its the latch, there are a lot of loose bits and pieces so I will need to stand in the back while someone takes my van for a drive on our horrible pot hole ridden roads. But it's more tolerable now so for the time being I can live with it.
This was a productive weekend. I finally charged and ran the CruiseNComfort AC for the first time! So happy to see the system working, although it wasn't hot outside so it's not really a meaningful test. Ambient temperature was around 55F, and this is the lowest reading I got from inside the output duct:
It was using around 550W if I recall correctly. Can't wait to see how it performs when it's hotter outside.
I also finished my AC distribution panel. Used Bluesea breakers panel for the "house" circuits, a Bluesea transfer switch to select between shore power (not yet mounted under the van, still debating what to do about finding water inside the rear bumper where those rectangular black rubber plugs are, and whether to bother with a Smartplug, which is nice, but $$$ and can't be used with standard extension cords I can buy at any hardware stores) and alternator-powered inverter (not yet purchased). Also added a breaker to go between the shore power and the selector switch. The breaker for the alternator-powered inverter will be placed next to the inverter. The pushbutton on the right is to control the future under-the-bed lights.
I am getting closer to being done with stuff that goes under the bed, which is very exciting for me. The biggest remaining piece is figuring out how to control the heating system. At the very least I need to control:
1) The heated floor loop pump
2) PWMing the air-coolant heat exchanger fan
3) Controlling a valve that opens/closes the heated floor loop, since even without the pump running some coolant is going through it
4) Controlling an Espar two way valve that sends the hot coolant straight back, to completely bypass the heated floor and air heat exchanger - to be used when I only want hot water. Not strictly necessary, but a small optimization. Originally I had planned to place it under the van so when I just want hot water I won't have hot coolant coming in, but I didn't plan well and couldn't fit it there.
While I'm at it, I'd like the above to be controlled by temperature sensors around the bed and the floor.
I am debating a custom circuit board using an ESP32 or Teensy, to be controlled via Homeassistant since I like that system. Been using it at my house successfully over the last year to control and automate all sort of things. One thing I want to do is get Zigbee water leak sensors, place them where there is plumbing, and have a way to forcing the water pump to shut off if a leak is detected. Been using a similar system at home and it saved my ass a few times already when I had water leak issues. Another option for the heating controls is to use boards from Home, Industrial & Building Automation I/O HATS for Raspberry Pi
since I am already planning on having a Raspberry Pi for misc stuff. It looks like it does most of what I want, and I am torn between that and custom hardware. Custom hardware has the advantage that I can add manual controls for all the relays so even if there is some failure I can still get stuff to work if on a trip.