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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just thought that I'd put a quick bit of info up in regards to a subwoofer that works perfect in these vans between the front seats. I was looking for a cheap and cheerful solution to getting some better sound out of the basic sync system with front and rear door speakers and the tweeters in the pillars.

The speakers sounded great but there was zero bottom end and I hate running the gain adjustments anything other than flat. I prefer the sound with everything in the middle as it creates little to no distortion and its just easier on the components. That said, I do like well rounded sound so adding a sub was the first thing after tires that my new moto-hauler has received.

After researching the "under passenger seat" options that are available and would be close to fitting, (kicker and Alpine) I decided to take a look at what I ended up buying. My local electronics store (yes there are still some around) had a bass tube on sale for $150 CAD, this unit is an all-in-one deal with built in amp and high level input with harness so that it can be tied into the front or rear speakers. (there is no sub-out on these stereo units) The measurements looked close so I said yes to $150, NO to extended warranty and extra NO to "this thing sounds like ****... you should spent $550"

My goal was to have a stereo that sounds like the one in my F150 which has basically the same speaker set-up with the addition of the factory sub. I am pleased to say that with the levels all in the centre, crossover all the way down and my favourite music playing that this thing sounds great! This just fills in the bottom end properly, shakes the mirror a little bit and will certainly not make anyone think that you're an idiot by causing a bunch of noise pollution outside of your van.

Here's the part number and list of things I used to install.

Memphis Audio 8" all-in-one powered sub SRX18SPT

(I tried to put a link but the forum wouldn't let me.)

-15' of 14 gauge wire for the remote on
-30' of speaker wire to tie it into the wiring harness at the back of the deck.
-5' total of oxygen free solid copper 12 gauge wire for power and ground connections and a 12 gauge fusible link.
-You'll also need some butt connectors and some crimp ring terminals as well as a proper crimping tool unless you want to solder everything.

This thing is a "press fit" between the seats and needs to be pushed in from the back, once in, its not going anywhere!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Working on getting the van ready for work and hauling bikes... I made a little centre console/sub cover out of carbon and aluminium; fastened it to a 2x10 that I'm using to separate the driving compartment from the rear and support the job box/seat that I've installed. Useful for holding stuff and keeps the stereo stealthy.!
 

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Thank you for posting. A subwoofer is a great upgrade to a van audio system. We happen to produce a subwoofer mounting panel for use with the Alpine PWE-S8. It mounts in the center lower wall opening behind the driver and does not take away any interior space.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan


https://www.ebay.com/itm/132928894715
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thats a great solution as well... I use the wall cubbies to store stuff and wanted to keep them all available. I wouldn't ever go from the front to rear between the seats so the one I used made the most sense for me. An additional bonus was the price, it was dirt cheap! That Alpine sub in Canada is +/- $500 and to my ears they sounded near as makes no difference to the same. Nice work on your mount though!
 

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Check out the huge hole in my rear door. I’m building a fiberglass subwoofer box. I didn’t want to give up any other interior space for a subwoofer. Even though the hole looks big, I’m still trying to keep it shallow to maximize the garage area, so it will be about .6 ft.³.
 

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Thank you for posting. A subwoofer is a great upgrade to a van audio system. We happen to produce a subwoofer mounting panel for use with the Alpine PWE-S8. It mounts in the center lower wall opening behind the driver and does not take away any interior space.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan


https://www.ebay.com/itm/132928894715
Yo Hein, you make that 10" one too right? What woofers do you recommend to fit that guy? Do you have measurements of how deep they can be? (the narrower they are the lower the spl, so I'd probably stick as thick of one back there as I could fit!)
 

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Yo Hein, you make that 10" one too right? What woofers do you recommend to fit that guy? Do you have measurements of how deep they can be? (the narrower they are the lower the spl, so I'd probably stick as thick of one back there as I could fit!)
We make panels to fit all three of the lower wall opening behind the driver. The outside surface of the panels are flush with the front of the sheetmetal so wall panels can go over them. We also make blank panels for mounting electronics. The Alpine PWE-S8 only fits the larger center location. We can fit a 10" shallow mount sub in any of the three locations. We produce the subwoofer mounting panels with or without ports. The best subs will be free-air type since there is not enough space for an enclosure/box. The Alpine has an engineered enclosure made of cast aluminum which has better sounding and tighter bass than a 10" free-air driver. It is also powered so installation is much easier with less wiring and mounting of a separate amp.

Here are some suitable 10" shallow mount subs to choose from at Crutchfield.com : https://tinyurl.com/y68mfrel
Look up the cutout diameter in the details tab and make a note of that when you place your order for our panel. And tell us if you want a port or not.

We also make speaker adapters to fit 6 1/2 and 6 3/4 aftermarket speakers in the front doors, mid-ship location and rear doors. These products are all machined out of PVC so won't absorb moisture like MDF does. They are very popular with our upfitters due to ease of installation. Great way to vastly improve the sound quality of the OEM head unit.

Audio system sound quality will be much better in a van that has been thoroughly insulated with 3M Thinsulate(TM) SM600L, SM400L and AU4002-5. Especially behind and around the speakers.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan

Below is a photo of the 10" sub in our van. Grey ABS lower wall panel is something we also produce and now have the other 3 lower panels too.

 

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@Hein, you ever had this happen to one of those sub-panels?

PXL_20200910_102730681.NIGHT.jpg


Mine just sort of let go last week. I think the FL heat might have melted the adhesive!

Is there any more heat-resistant product you would recommend?
 

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Thanks for the information, guys, I will try to implement this in my own RV. There is a lot of stuff I want to improve in my RV but I don't have so many resources and I'm trying to improve it by myself, so that means that I have too many things to do that I haven't done before and I have to learn a lot of new stuff. Fortunately for me, I have good friends that are also obsessed with their RV's and they helped me very much. For example one of my friends helped me to find good speakers, he showed me this site with good quality speaker reviews and there I found exactly what I was searching for.
 

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Still haven't made a setup I'm happy with on my transit hr work van which has padded & carpeted bulkhead wall. I'm now rethinking my first idea of building waterproofed sealed boxes underneath body with a cutout port to inside. One of our company sprinter vans has a custom box between seats with single sub, it never really sounded great.
 

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I was definitely checking out you overhead setup a while back. I'd need to get rid of a work truck related shelf behind my wall & of course buy smaller speakers, but if it'll sound better............
Work trucks are a challenge to get bass you can feel move the hair on your arms & keep down the rattles. The enclosed cab wall changes things too over an open van. Feeling it without hurting your ears is also part of the challenge.
Best place in sprinter was 2 12's stacked on floor firing through wall behind my left arm with a jacket hanging in front of them. Need that spot for a cart on this truck.
Many people say don't mount bass up top, won't sound right, but I think smaller speakers with more excursion can put out a different type of bass.
Are those 6'5's or 8's?? I'd imagine my 2 12's, may be too much right there.
 

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I previously had 6.5s and they sounded awesome. I had too much power on them and they were regularly being pushed past the point of the physical excursion limits. Cone would hit the back plate and eventually made one come apart. If you were within the wattage limits they'd be fine.

They were very loud for the average ear and super impressive. I'd compare them to a car with 2 tens in the back. I wanted more power handling though, and so went with the 8. In the same box they need lower tuning so I still have work to do but they are a real sub, and a much more substantial speaker. A single ten would be ideal if you can get one that handles the power. I estimate I have 2 chambers about 1.5 cu ft each empty. Ported, of course.

You can see in the photos the difference in sizes. The box was built in place, piece by piece so it was difficult to cut and mount but I got it done.

The current setup moves so much air it'll blow stuff off the seats but that's not a good thing. When your ports blow air you are playing frequencies below the ports tuning which doesn't resonate sound and unloads the sub which causes bad things to happen. When tuned right there's not much air moving through the port - only sound and that's what we want.
 

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Thanks. I'm guessing that's the evl-8 model, which is about 140 bucks each? I'm not expert on box design, particularly ported. my understanding is sealed gives a tighter sound though not as loud (smaller box requirement also), which is what I'm after here. In my setup, I'm doing one amp & subs initially for daily driver listening quality, & later will have another amp & box I can switch on for show off reasons.:whistle: I have insulated & lined walls & of course wood bulkhead separator wall, so that really changes ride & sound quality over bare walled van.
I do have wood shop at work, so box building & other fab is no problem other than just time. I could do a single 10 or whatever, but if you feel 2 high output 8's sound really good overhead, I'll try that next. I'm not familiar personally with these newer generation smaller subs, but it seems they have way more excursion than your older base model larger subs I'm more familiar with.
For reference, which model amp are you running for subs? Always been hard comparing different companies products, amps in particular have changed over the years, but the market is as overfilled as ever with over rated, under achieving cheap stuff.
 

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That is the evl-8. It's excursion is 3" peak to peak easily. The one ten gives you the option of having a larger volume, a port, and one amp to give you the output you want. More speakers adds more size and power and complexity.

Imo a sealed box is terrible. Ported boxes are usually easy to build following manufacturers recommendations and they are much louder more satisfying. Just tune to around 36 hz using any free software or the recommended boxes size in the literature. Use aeroports. They are also much better.

The amp is the Skar sk-v2 1550.1d.

All Korean made amps are awesome and world's better than anything ten or 20 years ago. They are also much cheaper and have more features. And most are Class D now, even high range. So they're tiny.

The highs amp is the Sk-M4004D.
 

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Definitely learned a little lately about modern items. Others have said the Korean amps are great, so I wonder what were some others brands being made there as I usually try to buy stuff locally. That 4004 sounds good for my highs to replace my kicker 350 that never impressed me.
Got a little while to decide, but not sure how much i want (or need) to go with over my head in a daily driver.
Checked with local shop I've dealt with & they quit carrying Skar speakers due to issues & no warranty, Did like them though. Showed me a memphis sub that looked pretty **** comparable, said was better quality. He said even a single 8 with a true 800w rms amp would put out more than a few brands of twin base 12's I'm familiar with. Said I probably don't realize how loud these things are. Also said the 8" speaker would be more of the tight responsive type sound I'm looking for than a 10 or 12. Recommended sealed box for tighter sound, so still not sure about that ole deal for me. Mostly older rock & metal listened to.

So what I'm thinking might be good for me is 2 lower level 8's with a smaller amp than that 1500 for daily use, being that the little 6.5's sounded good. Then later a 2nd amp & sub to switch on to show off, maybe underbody mount. Got a few weeks to decide , hoping to hear a few different setups locally to gauge by.
Thanks for any input.
 
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