Heat it up. I use a MAPP gas torch, it's a tad hotter than propane or butane. Be careful of seals or be prepared to replace them.

 

Yeah, get the rotor real hot and hose with water. It will come loose.

 

Tried Mapp didn't work. I took out the axle put the old bolts back in tightened them with an impact, hammered the bolts with a sledge until ti came off the back, I did have to remove the dust shield to get it back far enough. Still had to hammer it off to clear the hub.

 

They get quite tight, I used an air hammer on the exposed metal where it attaches to the ears on the hub.
Was thick metal and wouldn't matter having the small indents since it's not part of the braking surface.
Took about 15 minutes working one ear then rotating to other portion in star pattern.
Have been cleaned and reinstalled for 8,000 miles and didn't cause any problems!

 

They get quite tight, I used an air hammer on the exposed metal where it attaches to the ears on the hub.
Was thick metal and wouldn't matter having the small indents since it's not part of the braking surface.
Took about 15 minutes working one ear then rotating to other portion in star pattern.
Have been cleaned and reinstalled for 8,000 miles and didn't cause any problems!

You're supposed to replace rotors not reuse them when replacing pads.

 

Turning rotors just isn't recommended any more because they're just not made the same any more. I quit having rotors turned years ago it's not always cost effective, you have to trust the person doing them. When turned and they are thinner they don't dissipate heat as well which can lead to warping.

For me I find it a hassle to remove them, drop them off, wait, return to pick them up. Some places around me quit turning rotors. Some won't turn them if the manufacturer won't allow it.

 

I don't replace my rotor every time I replace the pads, maybe every other or second pad changed. Of course, it also depends on how the rotor's wear pattern.
Yes, it is not worth it to resurface the rotor, just replace it.