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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks,

I'm relatively new here, previously asked a quick question on maximising window sizes earlier and am now a proud owner of a 2017 mid-roof short passenger wagon. First van, first Ford, first camper.

I'm a Bay Area Software Engineer who's also a very keen photographer. Hence the "StormVan" moniker. I want to be out in the wilds in the middle of a storm, watching through those large windows, then dashing out as the storm recedes to capture the awesome light that follows. If the weather gets worse I stay inside and write an app.

Originally I was going for the low roof, but then I saw the bigger windows and couldn't go back. I insisted on making my life difficult by going for the short van as I want the extra agility especially for off-road use. I'll be booking it in to Quadvan soon. I'm coming from a 4Runner in which I did a 8 month trip to Alaska (from CA) and learnt alot (like get a van).

I'm no van-builder, so I'll be taking small steps. Especially as health reasons mean I need to self-isolate, which slows things down alot. I'll be asking loads of stupid questions and maybe posting photos too.

My plans are:
1. Mostly intend to use 80/20 (another Orton inspired build)
2. Remove just the rear seats, keeping floor, walls and AC
3. Drop in a bed, kitchen cabinet/workspace and bench/sofa quickly
4. Go on trip ASAP
5. Don't block any windows

Dave.
 

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2017 SWB MR Wagon with Quadvan 4x4
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Discussion Starter #2
First question.

I have removed all the seats, and would prefer to leave everything else (for the moment).

I am thinking of bolting 80/20 to the metal bars used for holding those seats, using U-bolts.
Then building up from there to create a bench bed across the back.
Some 80/20 would go front-back and have the U-bolt come through the 80/20.
Some 80/20 will go side-to-side, then I will use a U-bolt, with a mounting plate over the 80/20

I this reasonable? Will there be too much slop? Is there a better way?

Dave.


137665


(Do let me know if I should create separate threads for questions). I saw advice to do both questions and updates in a single build thread)
 

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I like your vision for chasing weather, every time we’re on a roadtrip in the midwest I’m begging the sky for a good thunderstorm.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mr 80/20 I have read your stuff many times. Thanks for the inspirationS.

Dave.
 

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I like the idea of using u bolts to hold 8020 down. I was thinking of using Rubber isolator mount to hold 8020 in the side wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Easier to use an angle bolted to the 80/20 and then the angle bolted to the wall or floor.
Unsure what Kirkland is intending, but in my case I'm attempting to tie the 80/20 thru the existing floor holes after simply removing the rear seats (see photo of floor above). There are short rods across the opening. How do I bolt the angle to the floor in that state?

Dave.
 

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Unsure what Kirkland is intending, but in my case I'm attempting to tie the 80/20 thru the existing floor holes after simply removing the rear seats (see photo of floor above). There are short rods across the opening. How do I bolt the angle to the floor in that state?

Dave.
Are you going to leave the existing Transit floor as shown in the picture? Are holes in the floor tapped or are they just a hole through the steel floor?

Maybe lay the 80/20 on the floor with an angle bolted to side of the 80/20. Make spacers between the angle and the steel floor. Bolt through the angle and spacer into the floor if tapped or through the floor if just a hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Are you going to leave the existing Transit floor as shown in the picture? Are holes in the floor tapped or are they just a hole through the steel floor?
Yes the hope is to leave the floor as in the photo (initially at least). I am trying to get together a quick prototype, then take the van on a few trips to decide how to layout the build. No holes or taps or available.

137696


Each of the holes in the floor are like this - with a crossbar. So I'm thinking to use a Ubolt where my finger is. Trouble is this limits the 80/20 to being parallel to the crossbar, I'd like perpendicular too.

The (removed) seats effectively had a Ubolt built in.

Maybe lay the 80/20 on the floor with an angle bolted to side of the 80/20. Make spacers between the angle and the steel floor. Bolt through the angle and spacer into the floor if tapped or through the floor if just a hole.
I guess I could put the Ubolt through the angle, then I don't need to drill the 80/20.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I like the idea of using u bolts to hold 8020 down. I was thinking of using Rubber isolator mount to hold 8020 in the side wall.
Can you post a link to the mount - sounds like I need some ;-)
 

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Dave, would please post on how to remove the side panels and where's the best location for a rivet nuts (plus nuts). Been trying to find instructional video on removing these panels including the top.
 

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Yes the hope is to leave the floor as in the photo (initially at least). I am trying to get together a quick prototype, then take the van on a few trips to decide how to layout the build. No holes or taps or available.

View attachment 137696

Each of the holes in the floor are like this - with a crossbar. So I'm thinking to use a Ubolt where my finger is. Trouble is this limits the 80/20 to being parallel to the crossbar, I'd like perpendicular too.

The (removed) seats effectively had a Ubolt built in.


I guess I could put the Ubolt through the angle, then I don't need to drill the 80/20.
Perpendicular would be easy with U-bolt. Bolt an angle to the 80/20 with 1 hole on one vertical leg of the angle. On the horizontal leg of the angle put 2 holes for the U-bolt. Angle length as required for the U-bolt holes.

For parallel I can see two choices.

1. Large U-bolt (3") so 80/20 is centered on the rod. Two 1 1/2" angles on the 80/20. One on each side of the 80/20. Each angle with one hole for each leg of the U-bolt. 80/20 holes and the U-bolt holes would have to be offset about 1/2" to allow the nuts to be installed.

2. Run two 80/20 extrusions perpendicular to two rods. Bolt the parallel 80/20 between the two perpendicular extrusions anywhere along the length of the perpendicular extrusions.
 

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Finally!! Someone else who appreciates maximum windows all around! I have never understood the small/no window mentality.

We are in Oklahoma. We learned that our PM can go 85mph in a 65mph crosswind to escape a tornado. When storm chasers turn around, it’s time to turn around
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dave, would please post on how to remove the side panels and where's the best location for a rivet nuts (plus nuts). Been trying to find instructional video on removing these panels including the top.
I'm trying to avoid doing that for the moment. But this vid shows how to do it.
. He makes a pry bar but Amazon has them too: Feigo 8 Pieces Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit - Trim Removal Kits Installer Pry Tool for Car Dash Audio/Radio/Door Panel/Window/Interior Accessories, Navy - - Amazon.com

gtluke shows using the factory holes for a bed: Ford Transit Passenger Van Bed

Dave.
 
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