[sschefer]

I bought a 2016 Transit T250 in August 2016. I took delivery on August 31st. It was dealer stock that my local dealer found in Oregon after I gave him my list of must haves.

As a 2014 F150 EcoBoost owner, drive train must haves were the EcoBoost and the 3.73 limited slip differntial. It also had to have Synch, a medium roof, LWB but not extended, be a T250 and be white. I wanted only rear windows, privacy glass and dual batteries. I got all but the batteries and because it was end of year clearance I got zero percent financing and a lot of other dealer incentives. I'm sure some of those came to me because I've bought several vehicles from them. Ford has a pretty good customer loyalty program.

With the van in posession I set out to have it ready for its first dry camping fishing trip in 30 days. I really did quite a lot more than I first expected to but because of the timeline, there was no fixing mistakes and some of them were huge.

The trip was great and the van did a lot better at making me and my dog feel at home than I thought it would. I took a lot of tools but only used them to fix other people's broken stuff.

So now here we are and it's late October 2016. It took a month to get all the things I wanted done and only 3 days to remove it all. I attribute that to me trying to keep in mind that everything should be removable with the least amount of disturbance to surrounding objects.

I've already found more mistakes that I did realize I had made and I'm sure some if you will laugh and that's OK with me, just know that I've had the first laugh.

I'll begin posting pics as I begin the redo in a few days. I'll try to explain what I did wrong in the first build and what I'm doing different this time.

Just so you know, that guy that built his bed frame out of pressure treated 4x4, yeah, no, that wasn't me. LOL..

 

[highaltitudelife]

I'll begin posting pics as I begin the redo in a few days. I'll try to explain what I did wrong in the first build and what I'm doing different this time.

Just so you know, that guy that built his bed frame out of pressure treated 4x4, yeah, no, that wasn't me. LOL..

I look forward to the posts! I'm sure that my process will be just like yours with a hurried first version and then a careful redo. But my "hurry version" will take a year and the redo will take five!

Looking forward to retirement one day

 

[klp]

Yeah sounds about right. Van building often takes a few tries to get it just right. My plan is constantly changing but one of my goals is to have a modular setup that easily takes many forms.


Let's see some pics!

 

[sschefer]

It's a rainy northern California day today so I decided to nose the van into the garage and get after that second alternator addition. I bought the kit so I could charge while driving without messing with any of the Ford electrical system. I'm gonna leave it at that since there seems to be a lot of confusion about this subject. Here's a link to the kit I bought. http://www.nationsstarteralternator...-for-Ford-Transit-Van-Gas-p/a2-0072-280xp.htm

This is my second build of this van so I'm really trying hard to turn over every stone before I do something I might regret later. The alternator is kind of a big thing to get installed and not really necessary for me so if there's any potential problems I just won't install it.

So, anyway, I'm sitting there looking at the parts and the first thing I notice is that there's no CARB exemption sticker on it. California Vehicle code includes a law that we know as the anti-tamper law. Basically, it say's you can't sell any aftermarket product that may effect vehicle emissions without first getting and exemption. Knowing that the first part of a California SMOG Test is to visually inspect the vehicle for modification I can almost guarantee that no one will pass it if that sticker isn't on it.

I've put the install on hold and I've emailed the manufacturer for clarification. There's only one answer that I can accept and that's the exemption number and I'll only accept that if I can verify it in the CARB Exemption database.

While I wait for that, I'll go ahead and move the Air Lift air pump and wireless controller to the empty battery hole under the drivers seat and wire it into one of the customer accessory points. Out of sight, out of mind and most importantly.... high and dry when I launch my boat.

 

[rene12341]

Why would installing an alternator affect emissions? You are not tampering or removing any emissions equipment. It will draw a little extra power but so does running your tires 10psi low.

 

[sschefer]

Why would installing an alternator affect emissions? You are not tampering or removing any emissions equipment. It will draw a little extra power but so does running your tires 10psi low.

California has a law that says you cannot tamper with anything that may effect emmissions. Adding a second alternator does increase load and there will be a decrease in fuel mileage which in turn may increase polution. In any case, it is a modification to the engine and will raise the attention of the smog shop. When they don't find the exemption they will send me to arbitration and they will decide if it's legal or not. Is it worth all that. Not for me.

 

[cara3321]

Can anyone recommend some good replacement headlight bulbs? LED, HID, etc. I have the sylvania bright stars now and I'm not impressed.

 

[sschefer]

Can anyone recommend some good replacement headlight bulbs? LED, HID, etc. I have the sylvania bright stars now and I'm not impressed.

Would you mind moving this post to a more appropriate thread. Thank you.

 

[orton]

An alternate that works is a vehicle powered pure sine inverter that powers the shore power house battery charger.

Would not be visible to smog inspector and is less expensive. Charging amperage is limited by the size of the inverter.

http://www.ortontransit.info/electric.php

For my application the 300 watt solar panel is the primary method used to charge the house battery. The vehicle powered inverter is the backup in case weather conditions force its use.

 

[sschefer]

The primary motivation for me is running the fridge while driving and not messing with the vehicles charging system. I'm not interested in solar but I will pull wire for it in case I change my mind.

 

[orton]

I have a Magnum MSS1012 house inverter/charger/transfer switch. The transfer switch powers the conversion duplex plugs without the house inverter being on. My refrigerator is a 12 volt/120 volt with the 120 volt cord plugged into a duplex plug. The refrigerator automatically runs on 120 volt AC if it is available instead of house battery 12 volts DC. So when the vehicle powered inverter is on, the refrigerator runs on the 120 volt AC power from the vehicle powered inverter.

I admit to being a fan of solar power. My 300 watt panel is my primary method of charging the house battery. The vehicle powered inverter is my backup in case weather conditions force its use. That is a very rare occurrence in my climate.

 

[sschefer]

Orton, I've got the inverter and I may do what you've done if I don't hear back from the Alternator folks.

 

[sschefer]

I didn't get the Air Lift moved today, maybe tomorrow. I did get the van stripped down to the reflectix.

I was pulling up the water proof flooring that was crap and discovered a large wet spot in the underlayment. That was right under my water tank so I filled it up and sure enough the lower fitting was leaking.

It's under warranty still and Amazon is giving me a no return refund. Now I'll get one made the way I need it instead of trying to make something work.

 

[dustboy]

Seems like every time I have a trip coming, I do a big push to work on the van. It's fine for the one trip but then I end up redoing a lot of it. I've "permanently" mounted my back seat twice, and it's a whole day project. I have the ugly rectangular holes in my vinyl flooring to prove it.

But, it's worth it to get it right, even if the project is never done.

So, I'm wondering why the second alternator? My van came with a 150A alternator, I assume that's the base option. Should be plenty of juice available, I've got my 60A owner-output wired to my dual 6v golf cart batteries (235 Ah) and it hasn't blown the fuse while charging and running the inverter-powered dorm fridge simultaneously.

 

[sschefer]

Seems like every time I have a trip coming, I do a big push to work on the van. It's fine for the one trip but then I end up redoing a lot of it. I've "permanently" mounted my back seat twice, and it's a whole day project. I have the ugly rectangular holes in my vinyl flooring to prove it.

But, it's worth it to get it right, even if the project is never done.

So, I'm wondering why the second alternator? My van came with a 150A alternator, I assume that's the base option. Should be plenty of juice available, I've got my 60A owner-output wired to my dual 6v golf cart batteries (235 Ah) and it hasn't blown the fuse while charging and running the inverter-powered dorm fridge simultaneously.

Yep, that's me too. I'm a little picky when it comes to my batteries. I'm currently mulling over several charge while driving options. The best so far is the second alternator running my current inverter and it running my 60 amp converter charger. That will give me 110v for the fridge and a proper 3 stage charging profile for that batteries. I'll add in some form of isolation so that the inverter switches from batteries to alternator and I'll probably add a line conditioner to keep the alternator output voltage within specs for the inverter. These are relatively small items that I can either buy or design and build myself.

If the second alternator doesn't work out then I may use the customer power point and I may upgrade to the optional larger alternator that ford offers.

Those items will come later in the Redo. The next item is getting the Air Lift 72000 kit installed under the drivers seat. I need to track down 50 feet of air 1/4" OD air line tomorrow. On that note, I now know what the factory empty ride height is so I know how much too lift it when it's loaded. Fine tuning for lift, handling and ride should be a breeze.

 

[joefromga]

An alternator is not a modification to the engine any more than carrying a load in the back.

 

[sschefer]

So, I got the Air Lift wireless compressor kit reinstalled. My plan to put it in the battery box didn't pan out. There's just not enough room to allow it to be serviceable. I mounted it to the back of the seat base in that spot that is useless for anything.

 

[Moot]

Yep, that's me too. I'm a little picky when it comes to my batteries. I'm currently mulling over several charge while driving options. The best so far is the second alternator running my current inverter and it running my 60 amp converter charger. That will give me 110v for the fridge and a proper 3 stage charging profile for that batteries.

Check out this thread: http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/diys-modifications/20402-how-charge-new-agm-house-batteries.html

 

[sschefer]

Check out this thread: http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/diys-modifications/20402-how-charge-new-agm-house-batteries.html

Thank you.

 

[sschefer]

Notice the Reflectix. On the walls and ceiling I have R-13 Ultra Touch Denim Insulation behind the Reflectix. The Reflectix has anywhere from a R-3.0 to R-21 rating depending on how it's installed. The Denim is either stuffed or glued with 3M Spray 90 Adhesive. My goal was to get a quasi average R factor of about 15 and at the same time keep condensation levels to a minimum.

One nice thing about a redo is that you get an opportunity to inspect your work after it's been in use. I found no evidence of condensation and am very happy with whatever R factor I managed to achieve. The Denim also seems to have good sound barrier characteristics. Heavy rain on the roof was pleasant and road noise is nothing compared to the van when it was empty.

On the deck, I made a mistake by covering it entirely with the Reflectix. The subfloor was floating on me and it was a pain in rear. I'm not even sure if it's worth putting it on the deck but I have it so why not use it. This time I'll lay it in between the skids and then put my subfloor down. That's today's project..

As a side note, when the sub floor was floating and I was taking measurements or coping, I was sometimes up to 1/4" off. That might not sound like much but a 1/4 on one end can end up being 1" or more on the other.