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if i understand the description of the location it is mounted at, all i have is an empty plug.
 

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3rd trip back - they replaced all fuel injectors. Picked it up today. Wife leaves work today- van wont start without giving it gas. Back for the 4th visit it goes. Started down this path on 12/26/17.... still not fixed.....
 

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@mleber A common theme is "don't reward bad dealerships". I'd get as pissed as possible, and raise a stink while standing in the showroom. Polite, firm, but "I've spent $$$$ (stick to your exact amount), and it still isn't fixed!"

I see people and dealerships that don't step back go back to troubleshooting 101. We need fuel; we need compression, we need a spark.

When a dealer technician* sees ten cars come in for fuel pump modules (that little module that turns the pump on or off to maintain fuel pressure) they tend to start swapping them on every car that comes in.

It makes business sense as they charge 1.5-hour labor. First 1.0 hour is "diagnostics" (i.e. hook up fuel pressure gauge, then follow "if-then" diagrams). Next 0.5 Hour is module R&R. Any good tech dives in replace the module (6 minutes!), and the customer pays 1.5 hours + parts. Dealer & technicians make money!

Ten vehicles and they are making money! 11th vehicle comes in, uh oh that didn't fix the problem. That one may take 5 hours to fix. A good dealer will admit "Ok, this one bit us in the butt, let's do what is right and fix it." Bad dealers keep passing the buck. Don't reward bad dealers!

This scenario is why I love independent shops. Small Mom & Pop. They know their customers and need repeat business.


*I've worked with both straight wage, full commission, and split technicians. One of the most ethical guys I worked with was a pure commission. He split labor with the dealership. He was fast, smart, and made money. He typically would work 40 hours a week but could bill 70 hours labor. He was one the guys I made custom tools for to help things go faster. Hence the "10 cars in a row" story. To give him credit that 11th car would end up his house over the weekend so he could spend time thinking and look. He may have put 6 hours into that one, but could only bill 1 hour.
 
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Hi, your response exactly describes my problem. My 2015 Ford Transit died, a mobile mechanic arrived to inspect the vehicle and completed a diagnostic , but refused to complete the installation of the fuel pump module control unit per he claimed , programming from the dealership would be needed in order for the car to start. When you replaced the part did you need to do any programing ? Thank you again for your prior post. Just missed the warranty covergae a month for the dealership repair.
 

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but refused to complete the installation of the fuel pump module control unit per he claimed , programming from the dealership would be needed in order for the car to start. When you replaced the part did you need to do any programing
In the olden days (like 10 years ago), you could replace parts and shut the hood and you're done. More recently, every **** thing needs to be "programmed" due to being controlled by the computer via CANbus. I've read of a Volvo needing a new window switch. The independent shop swapped it out but then had to drive to the Volvo dealer so the computer would recognize the new switch.

So.... I don't actually know if the Transit fuel module needs to be "recognized" but my guess is your mobile mechanic is telling the truth.
 

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I don't know either but my 97 ASTRO cargo van had a fuel pump replaced and it needed programming by the dealer. I could start it, though but it would take about ten seconds of cranking.
 

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At least our cars aren't made by John Deere where you sign an EULA that allows you to use the tractor but JD owns the software so only the dealer can do most repairs. You can still lube parts - I think that still doesn't need dealer programming!
 

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augh! Didn't know that. Good reason to give money to EFF and Consumer Reports to fight these corporations and the DMCA.
 

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At least our cars aren't made by John Deere where you sign an EULA that allows you to use the tractor but JD owns the software so only the dealer can do most repairs. You can still lube parts - I think that still doesn't need dealer programming!
Caterpillar does this, too. My brother has to pay a Cat technician to come out with a laptop and "set" the software whenever a sensor is replaced in their 988's or other heavy equipment. I think it's $2500 minimum or something. Because of the extra operating/maintenance cost and reliability issues with new tier3 and 4 (emissions) heavy equipment, there is a surge in demand in the logging industry for vintage heavy equipment made before the emissions standards. According to him, but he's a hostile witness, some sensor or another fails for seemingly no reason every few weeks, which often makes the equipment inoperable.

It sounds like extortion to me.
 

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I have the 3.5 and had the same symptoms, good crank and no start. Sometime it would start and run rough for 30 seconds then stall.

Dealer replaced fuel module and pump. Good to go. 2016 150 with 25k miles and just under 3 years old.
 

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Hi sorry for not updating earlier. The mobile mechanic lied, there is no programming needed. The second mechanic installed and had the van running within 30 minutes. The cost $65 for the part and 1 hour mechanic time billed to me. Dealership informed a price range of $250 minimum and would need to leave the van for a few days.
 

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Well I think I will get in on this post. I bought my T150 2 weeks ago. The previous owner said there was no problems with the van except a check engine light due to an O2Sensor. I picked it up and started up the interstate. Went about 10 miles and the engine stopped going down a hill in a construction area with no pull offs. I stopped as close to the guard rail as I dared and tried to start with no joy. Thought maybe out of fuel with miss reading on the gas gauge. Luckly wife was with me and we went up the road in her car and bought a gas can and 2 gallons. Put the gas in and van started. Went about 10 miles and pulled into QT and filled the tank. Only took 17 gallons so I now know that the gauge is ok.. Got back on the road and went about 10 more miles. Engine quit again. Waited about 5 minutes and engine started again. Went about 12 more miles and another engine shut down. Finally got home and next day did the online surfing. Decided that the FPCM must be the problem. Bought and installed unit from Ford dealer and everything seemed ok for the next 120 miles of customer calls. Next day I travel to customer and work for about 2 hours. Got in the van and no start. Waited a few minutes and no start. Called wife for rescue. I intended to tow the van home. When she got there, the van started. On the way home (36 miles) van quit about every 10 miles. I am now thinking that maybe the Inertia Fuel shut down switch is probably failing and when I hit ever a small bump it stops the fuel pump. Now my question is where is the switch located on the T150 3.7 Van?
 

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Well I think (I'm douched)...
From the service manual: "In the event of a moderate to severe collision, the vehicle is equipped with a Fuel Pump and Sender Unit Shut-off Feature that is initiated by the event notification signal.

The event notification signal is a signal provided by the RCM to the Fuel Pump Control Module. Signal communication between the RCM and the Fuel Pump Control Module allows the PCM to shut-off the Fuel Pump.

Should the vehicle shut off after a collision due to this feature, the vehicle may be restarted by first turning the ignition to the OFF position and then turn the ignition to the ON position. In some instances the vehicle may not start the first time and may take one additional ignition cycle."

So if it starts right away on the first or second try and you don't have to wait, your theory is plausible. If you have to wait 5 minutes or more, it could be the fuel pump. Ford pumps are good for as few as 60k miles. It "looks" like the RCM is the trigger now, not a separate inertial switch. But I could be full of crap. RCM stands for restraints control module. It's located under the carpet/rubber floor under the parking brake cover. You actually have to slice open the floor cover to get at it. Be advised it also triggers the airbags, so keep your head down when working on it. Also, you need some sophisticated software to learn in a new module. Or it could all be related to that O2 sensor.

Edit: I'd go back and look at that FPCM again. Wire chafing, connector loose... If touching that made it good for a while, maybe touching it some more is the solution. Or maybe you got another bad one, or...
 

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My 2015 transit just started having a similar problem. Barely will start in the morning after much turning it over. Took it to the dealer and they said the code they were getting was basically saying the air filter box was leaking or some crap. They wanted to put some deflector on the air box and charge me $600. I was like it’s acting like it isn’t getting fuel why not start there and apparently they have to do what ford and the computer tells them to. Do y’all think I’m having the FPDM issue listed here?
 

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This forum is so helpful. I only have 200 miles on my van, so no problems yet. But after reading this thread I did some internet searching on fuel pump control module for the Transit . Even the auto part store websites say this is a common failure on Transits. So I bought one for $39.59 which claims to be superior to the OEM unit in that it has a circuit designed to handle the current. I tossed it in the van and checked my toolbox to make sure I have what it takes to replace it. Looks like an easy swap. Hopefully the stock one fails on a mild day in a dry paved parking lot.
 

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Check the fuse that controls the prime pump. I do not remember which one it is but it is located in the box in the engine bay. Somehow it does not make good contact. You should be able to hear the prime pump hum for a split second when you first insert the key into the ignition. I have a 2015 3.5 HR EL with 75k miles. Had the fuel control module replaced, it worked for a day. Hope that helps
 

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So was there an outcome to this problem I also have a 2015 transit every time the temp drops below 20 it will not start but if I wait till it warms up outside the truck will start no problem. Checked battery replaced just out of despair. Before I run it through a dealer here in jersey was just wondering if anyone had resolve for this issue.
 
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