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@thecho there is no issue back charging through the CCP. I have revived my starter battery with a plug-in trickle charger overnight thru the CCP. I believe the CCP in the 2020 vans will disconnect the starter batt after a certain amount of time but the older vans stay connected.
Yes - the 2020s have a battery shed feature that protects the battery from dropping below the amount required to start the engine.
 

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Does anyone know if this battery drain issue effects just the Ford brand batteries (that come with the vehicle) or will it effect any battery put in the vehicle? I have a new Deka battery and am wondering if that would have this issue.
 

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Does anyone know if this battery drain issue effects just the Ford brand batteries (that come with the vehicle) or will it effect any battery put in the vehicle? I have a new Deka battery and am wondering if that would have this issue.
Although the factory battery isn't very good the issue has nothing to do with the battery.
 

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Ford knows about the electrical system battery drain, Ford ships the Transit in what is known as Transport Mode, Transport mode keeps the battery from going dead while the Transit is on the train and sitting on dealers lots. Transport mode is deactivated when the odometer has 50 miles on it, Transport mode can not be reactivated.
Quote:
During vehicle build, some modules (such as the IPC and the BCM) are set to factory mode. When the vehicle build is complete, the vehicle is set to transport mode.

Transport mode is used to reduce the drain on the battery during longer periods when the vehicle is not used. Various system functions can be altered or disabled when in the transport mode. While in transport mode, the IPC displays TRANSPORT MODE in the message center.
 

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Is there a draw on the battery that drains it (2019 MR ) over time when you don't drive it?
I don't think any accessories are on and nothing else is connected to it yet and after a few weeks the battery goes dead and it happened twice now while building it out..
Also when the battery dies it seems to go all at once and the starter doesn't even click seems like there is a mechanism in the battery management system that disconnects the battery at a certain voltage?
After 2 overdischarges that battery is probably toast by now.
I found if you connect any devices to most of the wiring it is live all the time which will cause a slow drain.
I attached to the rearview mirror circuit a usb outlet and a dash cam.. This caused a slow drain.. Word of caution
whatever you wire to the ford be sure you have a hard on off switch or disconnect it when the vehicle is off.
 

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I installed a simple trickle charger, from my solar system, using a diode and resistor. No more dead / weak batteries.

Ron
 

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I appreciate this thread. I am a fairly new Ford Transit van owner, having had my van just under 30 days now. I got a "Battery charger/maintainer", this one: https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SPC3-Connected-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B01N537IM7/ref=asc_df_B01N537IM7/ and then after not driving the van for 4 days, put it on the battery to see what it read. It said the battery was at less than 50% charge! It was around 42%. Pretty pathetic to lose half the charge in only 4 days of not driving.

Anyhow, after charging up the battery to full charge, I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. Then, using 2 gauge wire, I attached a battery disconnect switch. This will serve 2 purposes. First, it will allow me to disconnect the battery immediately after driving, to preserve its charge and stop this infernal battery drain. Second, it will function as a "kill switch" for van security. The method of wiring the disconnect switch, and the placement of the switch in a locked compartment in the cargo area, will hopefully defeat attempts to get at it, should anyone attempt to steal the van and then find that it doesn't start, and begin searching for the cause. However, I will employ other security measures as well, so this is redundancy in that regard, which I think is good to have in the security dept.

INteresting what you say @ranxerox about the "Transport Mode." How stupid that they leave such a serious problem in the van without giving owners any easy way to mitigate it, such as leaving IN the "transport mode" so owners can turn it on or off at will and stop battery drain!!
 

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I appreciate this thread. I am a fairly new Ford Transit van owner, having had my van just under 30 days now. I got a "Battery charger/maintainer", this one: Amazon.com: Schumacher SPC3 3A Connected Battery Charger/Maintainer, 1 Pack: Automotive and then after not driving the van for 4 days, put it on the battery to see what it read. It said the battery was at less than 50% charge! It was around 42%. Pretty pathetic to lose half the charge in only 4 days of not driving.

Anyhow, after charging up the battery to full charge, I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. Then, using 2 gauge wire, I attached a battery disconnect switch. This will serve 2 purposes. First, it will allow me to disconnect the battery immediately after driving, to preserve its charge and stop this infernal battery drain. Second, it will function as a "kill switch" for van security. The method of wiring the disconnect switch, and the placement of the switch in a locked compartment in the cargo area, will hopefully defeat attempts to get at it, should anyone attempt to steal the van and then find that it doesn't start, and begin searching for the cause. However, I will employ other security measures as well, so this is redundancy in that regard, which I think is good to have in the security dept.

INteresting what you say @ranxerox about the "Transport Mode." How stupid that they leave such a serious problem in the van without giving owners any easy way to mitigate it, such as leaving IN the "transport mode" so owners can turn it on or off at will and stop battery drain!!
A small comment on the discharge - unless you measured before the 4 days, I don't think we can say how much discharged in that time frame. Just driving around does not fully charge the battery from what I read.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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I'll also comment, unless you check the battery open circuit, meaning neg cable disconnected and letting it sit overnight, you cannot know the true state of charge.
 

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My 2015 never had a problem. My voodoo routine was to always lock the van when I got out and then hit the unlock for the rear doors. On my 2019 the battery went completely dead battery within the first month ....

.... Ecoboost "Versions" - Please Educate Me

The only mod to the stock system was to replace the reverse light bulbs with LEDs ....

.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0141ZZ0KY

I park it in the garage and since the dead battery have been sure to check that both the 4" and 6" displays don't have a faint glow. There are several different versions of how it pops up. Sometimes I can park, get out, close the door and both stay dark. If that doesn't work I'll hit lock on the fob, they'll go dark then unlock on the back doors and they stay dark. Sometimes after that if I open the slider the 6" display will go back to the dim glow and I have to hit the lock / unlock rear doors and they both stay off. I have a voltage display plugged into the dash cigarette lighter port. I spot check the voltage by opening the slider. It sits for up to two weeks at a time and usually the display shows 12,3 volts. If it drops to 12.2 volts I'll hook up the trickle charger to the jump start post.

Is this a PIA - yes, but then while living through the 2020 Social Apocalypse it seem a minor inconvenience.

~STM~
 
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What do you mean @sportcoupe about checking the battery open circuit? If I disconnect the negative cable and let it sit overnight, how would that change the charge reading?
That is exactly what I mean. Checking voltage of a battery with a load on it cannot accurately determine SOC (state of charge). Even though the van is "off", there is still an electrical load on a connected battery.
 

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That is exactly what I mean. Checking voltage of a battery with a load on it cannot accurately determine SOC (state of charge). Even though the van is "off", there is still an electrical load on a connected battery.
And as he said before, the batt needs to have no load on it for a while (time depends on previous discharge/charge history, overnight for sure is ling enough, 30 min is enough if there was no significant charge/discharge in the last few hours before the “rest” period started).
 

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And as he said before, the batt needs to have no load on it for a while (time depends on previous discharge/charge history, overnight for sure is ling enough, 30 min is enough if there was no significant charge/discharge in the last few hours before the “rest” period started).
And the only way to have no load is to disconnect and wait 12 hours to stabilize.
 

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Sportcoupe is correct there's no way to get an absolute correct state if there's a load on it and when my battery is connected it ALWAYS has a load on it. All I know is I can't let it get repeatedly too low because it will destroy it which is what happened to my OEM battery.
 

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After looking at dc-dc trickle chargers, I settled on and installed a 18 watt solar panel that lives on the dash inside the van. That way I can maintain the batteries while parked at work everyday.

My 18 watt panel outputs 0.8 amps in full sun, 0.3 amps when cloudy. Perfect just to maintain a full charge.
 

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After looking at dc-dc trickle chargers, I settled on and installed a 18 watt solar panel that lives on the dash inside the van. That way I can maintain the batteries while parked at work everyday.

My 18 watt panel outputs 0.8 amps in full sun, 0.3 amps when cloudy. Perfect just to maintain a full charge.
I like that! It makes me wonder about the viability of setting up a solar panel on the passenger seat, while driving long distances, to charge up my Goal Zero YETI 400. IT seems there is sufficient sunlight coming through --- might work...has anyone else tried this? Seems it would be easier to have the solar panel inside the van than go through all the procedure to get it put on the roof and get the wiring routed from there into the van....
 
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