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Discussion Starter #1
Recently switched to a 2019 transit as company work truck, which is mine to drive, but I don't own. Also for budget reasons, I want to reuse most of my aftermarket stereo I had in a sprinter & leave factory unit untouched.. I got my reasons. Also I can fabricate by the way.
Have a reasonably new pioneer single din head unit, Clarion active eq with volume control on it. Kicker 4 x 75 amp for main speakers &500w amp for my pioneer 12's. Mostly listen to add on xm unit, which I have to factory stereo aux for now.
Have pioneer 4 way 6 x 9's in carpeted boxes, which will likely mount up high on my carpeted bulkhead, as in last truck. Easy enough .
Need to figure something for front. Considering making something to drop in large lower side cupholders to hold from a 4" to 5 1/4 component speaker. Previously had 4"pioneer dash speakers in sprinter.
Previously had twin box of 12's behind sprinter seat in bulkhead cutout. Could feel the hair on your arms move sometimes .Need all my rear room for business, so considering making 2 custom sealed waterproof boxes to fit under drivers side body & port sound inside.
several options for amp mounting locations.
Deciding where to mount single din reciever & 1/2 din eq with volume control. Bunches of rca cables will play into this decision. May make holder right behind center console?? Pretty sure CD players operate upright?? May Also sacrifice main center cupholder area??
Lastly not over familiar with transits electrical yet, did track down odd front dome light issue with these wierd new fuses. I just need easy way to tap in for low amp full time signal & switched (10 amp?)for reciever & eq. Haven't yet accessed battery under seat for hookups, but should be easy enough.
Probably won't get to for a few more weeks, but planning.
Any suggestions appreciated. One way or another, I always get it done, but help wouldn't hurt.:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, my first initial thought was the overhead pockets, as I seem to remember some older vans & trucks getting overhead mounting.
However, my 2nd thought was the upper end of lower console area would be most practical for quick glance while driving & especially for cable routing . A fabricated box here would probably be one of the least invasive ways to have a quickly removable setup, which could transfer to another vehicle quickly. Parts in pic actually have been sitting under lower console out of sight & mind for 2 months now, so not missing space there.
Also my add on xm & gps have been temporarily sitting screwed to container jammed in cupholder. Been considering making a dome shaped cover for center of dash to shade them from direct sunlight after later mounting them higher up for better & safer view while driving.
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Discussion Starter #6
Back to plan 1 , mounting radio & eq overhead, after finding an easy mounting box to fit under console. Making box to mount aux xm unit & gps between mirror & dome light, which will shade screens from bright daylight & eliminate aux line cable running issue. pic is mock up fit only.
Strongly figuring now on buying another battery to power everything separate from vehicle. After researching here, looking at using a stinger sgp32 relay for charging battery, as joe from ga recommended in an older post, as opposed to isolator or invertor & charger. Found a battery tender solar charger controller in my stock, may get a solar panel later for setup.
Looking at making my own kick panel pod speaker mounts from abs plastic, which will be a tight fit in these tiny interiors. Figuring on a pair of tweeters in sail panel location mounted on adjustable mounts.
For my 2 -12" subs, ditching the thought of underbody boxes & porting. Have a little area on backside of my padded wood bulkhead wall directly behind seat from approx 34" to 54" up that I could sacrifice tool storage for. Figuring on firing rearward, as most car trunk subs are setup & not port into cab. Have a little giant ladder directly behind spot, so that would give some air space.
Also reading up on mid bass & considering an 8" sub or something for better fuller sound, Mostly older hard rock, metal listened to.
Again, any thoughts & help thinking are appreciated.
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Discussion Starter #7
By the way, planning on contributing a few threads here, such as my chrome 17" wheelskins retrofit, when I complete them & my adjustable wood shelving I recently did on 2 of our work vans.

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Discussion Starter #8
Made a new sub box from 3/4 mdf to mount on backside of bulkhead behind me.
Got driver's side kickpod holder almost done & halfway done with pass side. Heated, molded & welded up 1/4" & !/8"abs plastic. Real labor of love there. Yea, I know, it takes up a bit of foot room, But this is a work truck, not a long distance lay back ride. For crazy city driving, I generally rest my left foot a couple inches above brake pedal, so a speaker grille there could be a good thing. Kick panel speakers are said to give the best imaging, so hopefully they will be worth the trouble for the front paired with adjustable mount tweeters at sail panels. Tried to give them a fair volume for mid bass.
Also wondering if separate tweeters for rear overhead boxed 6 x 9's would help much?
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Discussion Starter #9
Getting h-8 battery fit under passenger seat along with Stinger isolator. Making a switch panel to have shutoff switches for all accessories, amps, etc and a 12 v gauge. Couldn't find my reducer tip for my heat gun, so I made one.
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Discussion Starter #10
In the last pic, I did a bonehead late night thing. Thought it would be cool to mount jack on side of seat in doorway, which could have other uses in work truck. Forgot this isn't my old sprinter, door wouldn't shut. :rolleyes: I'll just mount it to inclined rear of seat frame , which is still easier to access than the factory spot.

Cut the upper center of console loose & started making some switch mounting space.. The 2 silver boxes are commercial door closer covers, free at work. Cut the upper portions open for future access for maintenance & expansion of more switches. Had enough room to mount the 2 factory pockets up top, so no room lost here. Looks good enough for a work truck. Now I can start prewiring switches sitting in the house & start getting this project done.

Still need to wire up the Stinger solenoid isolator. Guess I'll do the relay to the engine running ground connector, unless I find an easier suitable switched signal. won't ever be sitting there with key on not running, so I don't think I really need to have it relayed from ground signal. I may need to add battery & solenoid to a few other company trucks, so quicker & simpler would be better.
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What'd you make the heat gun reducer out of ???
Looks like a steel Budwieser bottle as it says Budweiser on it ???
I've never seen a steel bottle before if that is what it is.
 

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Ooo! Someone's making a Star Trek Original Series control panel!

I've been wanting to make a Kirk Chair for a long time, but I don't know what to do with it after I make it.
 

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In the last pic, I did a bonehead late night thing. Thought it would be cool to mount jack on side of seat in doorway, which could have other uses in work truck. Forgot this isn't my old sprinter, door wouldn't shut.

:ROFLMAO: We both slammed our feet in the door several times going from the Sprinter to the Transit! At least we haven't done the noob thing of putting a phone in the hidden door pocket (aka euro cigarette pack holder)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That's an aluminum bud can from work alum recycle dumpster, yea it expands faster than steel & keeps falling off, but it was just a temporary. My tools travel too much & get separated, 😒 No time for excuses. Debating about what speaker grilles or sound transparent grey fur fabric over everything like personal vehicle.

Some of the sprinter to transit differences are astounding, particularly the lack of common sense interior room & design. WTF Ford ?? May later cut door panels to hold your typical size brochures like sprinter had, will soon build center console between seats & around the space hogging parking brake I never use here in the marshlands of N Fla. My 2019 does have a no cell phone sticker in door pocket.. Interiors are supposed to work for us, not the other way around.

Never thought of star trek look, but I am going full old school here. I'll take that as a compliment. Going for full versatility and expansion capabilities, bypassing all the stupid ass body control module regulated crap that you need to be an electronics engineer with skinny kid hands to find out what fuse blew for no good reason. Angled components to somewhat peek at while driving & different main use switches I can learn the feel of without looking. Some of this switching is all about battery life when not running.

I'm outside right now daisy chaining pos & neg wires, then making rest of harness as an assembly, running wires for future use before installing my unit back in overhead. Making it all reasonably easy to pull out as a unit and documenting it some for anyone wanting to do something similar.

I still would like advise on a couple of things.🙄🙄
I would like to speak to someone on a few things about high end stereo sound quality. reusing an assortment of items collected over the years, going for pretty badass this time around. Messaged Joe from ga, but haven't heard back from him.
In post 10, mentioned wiring for stinger solenoid that I will need to quickly repeat in other trucks, wondering if I really need to relay off ground output circuit or if there is a much easier spot to grab a switched signal that ok for my work truck use???????. Don't care if it's under dash. Hoping to get it wired tomorrow (sunday)
 

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Proper respect for the old school switches and motif!

My opinion on high quality of sound is that it's impossible in a moving vehicle, especially a van with as much stuff as it has to rattle with the body and frame and longer driveline. If you're parked with the engine off, it's possible to have audiophile sound quality, maybe even with built-in speakers instead of a pair of B&O or MartinLogan sitting in the back. I think with a moving vehicle you can have LOUD but not great quality. LOUD actually diminishes the quality because it shuts down some of the cilia in your ear canal, reducing the hertz range you can hear. I've observed that a $100 pair of over-ear headphones will produce better clarity and quality than $1000 speakers.

"quality" is different things to different people, I've been exposed to some of the highest quality equipment set up by pros in ideal sized and shaped rooms, so it takes a lot for me to acknowledge "high quality" sound. "Good" in a vehicle is a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I agree quality is subjective, over half my life ago I thought it wasn't loud enough without a little distortion. Now I like enough amp power set to stay under distortion for my short ( & getting shorter) super loud listening sessions. Like my extra bass tighter rather than overboosted for mainly listening to older rock.

My wife made me get rid of tower speakers in bedroom years ago, small radio's suck, & I rarely listen to stereo in 400 hp personal vehicle (infinity kappa, rockford p-3's etc), so work truck is where my time is spent. I put a lot of time into reducing rattles, Have insulated & lined walls, padded & carpeted bulkhead, etc. So cab only area. May do more on front wheel wells, doors & under front floor later also. Not much I can do about extensive glass. Overall though, not comparable to average work truck or even older stock car.
Have a few pairs of older but decent pioneer & polk 6 x 9 's. Could update LATER if worth cost. Trying out 2 in experimental kick panel pods & 2 in overhead rear boxes (high roof) . Run with kicker zx350 amp that is 60w rms x 4 @4 oms or 90rms @2 ohms. Have a few pair of unused silk tweeters.

I'm thinking kick panel front location is best for imaging. Could later switch to door speaker area, but trying to leave stock location alone--whole theme here. Figure on putting 2 tweeters near stock tweeter location on swivels to aim at optimum angles.
Wondering if 2 more tweeters at kick panel area would add anything or just be a dumb idea???
Wondering if 2 tweeters at upper rear corners is worthwhile also???
Wondering if 2 pair of 6 x 9's in upper corners making amp put out 90 w @ 2ohms would do anything or just be a really dumb idea??? Would be later anyway.
Wondering about angle of pointing my rear speakers. Last HR van was mostly forward, partly down,,,thinking mostly down this time???
Highly considering a small sub with another amp to add more mid bass punch to compliment my 2 12's, separately switched on as wanted though for power consumption control ????
 

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Loud has it's purposes. I still have a couple 4x12 stacks with 120amp Bugera tube heads (total 16 speakers and 240 tube amps!) that I'll pop up to maybe "2" each and do a run through of a few Carcass songs on my guitar. Never had them up past 6-7 on stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Bill, Carcass songs through stacks, your ears must be similarly as bad as mine. Awesome. Bose salespeople can sell you crap about small speakers all day long, but nothing compares to feeling your chest bones rattle on even the high notes.

Still needing some advise on questions in posts 15 & 18 from someone.

Finally got my overhead assemble prewired including 6 rca's & bench tested. ran a couple extra wires & have enough length to pull unit down to work on. added switch for some ambiant lighting testing & expansion connections, once again, separate from fussy factory wiring. Organized chaos & time consuming, but passed bench test & ready to go. Out of time again though.
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