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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
I am curious about any reason why you went with epoxy on the back side instead of paint like the front side?
A couple of van specific reasons, but first, I'm a huge fan (you might already know) of its utility (many hardeners and additive options for wide project range), years long shelf life and metered pumps for perfect mixing. So, a gallon of resin is always tapped for use.

Today's plywood are splintering panels of junk. I've used 30 year old scraps out of my basement in the build. I have 6 and 8 ply 1/2". Doesn't exist today at any price that I can find. So, epoxy does a super job of stabilizing the fibers on the back, edges, and holes. Paint does just ok at this, but is UV stable. Epoxy is not UV stable. Epoxy has high waterproofing properties, better than any paint, if pores and bubbles are addressed. Rolling two coats and tipping is probably approaching 100% waterproof. BUT, there is a steep epoxy learning curve. Understanding and controlling the reaction time is critical. After that, the uses are endless if you're into building things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
This was my first project using 8020 for framing, so minimum experience here. I did however find myself asking a series of questions during planning and construction in an attempt to keep weight under control that might be helpful to others. Otherwise, if you use 8020 like you're building free standing furniture, you're adding unnecessary weight and cost.

The questions are "if, then" questions. As an example, consider a sink base that extends into the slider opening. Three legs are required. How about the fourth? That corner is against the van wall. If the sink top is tied to the wall on that corner, do you want the fourth leg? First question, is it needed for structural support? If yes, then install it. If no, then ask if it's needed to secure something else, like the edge of a panel or a piece of equipment? If yes, install it. If no, then the last question is, does it need to be there for aesthetics? If yes, install it. If no, you saved weight and cost.

This is what lead me to a 3 leg sink base and a 2 leg refrigerator cabinet. Hey, 20 pounds here and there adds up. Hope you have as much fun building your van as I'm having with mine.
 

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Frugal if they last for years; cheap if they break prematurely 😉

I jest of course. I bet you already know this trick, but you can make a bucketful of "pinch clamps" by slicing the pipe as you did and then just having a single crosscut through the slice at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I did not know that one. I was limited in the number of tabs I could glue on ceiling panels at one time by the number of spring clamps on hand. This would be perfect! I'll use this trick some time.
 

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Frugal or Cheap

I priced pipe hangers at 8020....
satisfaction of creative solution > (time spent + $ saved)
hence the title of your thread
never happens to me ;) ... also, using what would otherwise be scrap = environmentally conscious

BTW - I noticed in one of your photos that you are using a Seaflow(?) water pump. I have zero experience with this type equipment, but suspect you may have quite a bit. Would appreciate if you have any opinion/guidance on selecting a pump - sizing decision and brands/models. TIA
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
@njvagabond, I don't have any experience with potable water diagram pumps. This one is my first and I rolled the dice. I have had several different mfg impeller pumps over the years, but none of the current year models get very good reviews. I have a 18 year old Jabsco that pumps saltwater hours on end, 40 days a year. I would not expect that from any pump today.

I dislike the whine of impellers in closed spaces. Went with lower pumping rate to limit use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Today, I finally got around to starting the fan installation. I ordered the fan one year ago, along with an adapter from DIY. I must say cutting the hole was a bit nerve racking. Plenty of writeups on the forum on installs, so pics only.
Wood Hood Tree Vehicle Motor vehicle

Sky Wheel Vehicle Road surface Motor vehicle

Tomorrow the unit goes in.
Light Lighting Fixture Wood Line
 

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Note to self: Buy scaffolding.

Looks like it made the job easier!
Home Depot rents it by the day if you just need a couple days.
 
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Mining for tee nuts buried under the sheet vinyl flooring. That was this afternoon's task. Worked out well.
Sleeve Wood Bumper Bag Collar

Wood Grey Track Rectangle Road surface

I had planned from early on to tie my sink cabinet, floor to ceiling cabinet, battery box and dog crates to the floor with stainless steel t-nuts. I had used them in boat projects with good success. While I had the temporary plywood floor installed in the top down build progression, I built the cabinets and laid out the crates for t-nut location points. These were marked on the floor and later transfered to the underlayment by drilling thru both. The t-nuts were installed, two coats of epoxy on the bottoms, and tape over the topside to keep out floor adhesive. I laid the temporary floor, now well used template over the vinyl, marked where the t-nut should be and removed the template. Using the butt end of my 1/4" ratchet, I felt for the holes through the vinyl and drilled to expose them.

The temporary plywood floor was 1/2". The final planned floor was 1 5/8" (1" foam, 1/2" plywood, vinyl). I planned all my build heights for floor mounted things by adding 1 1/8" to the final elevations, as the top of the 1/2 " temporary floor was my reference elevation.

Here are some additional pics showing attachment of the 8020 frames.
Automotive exterior Floor Wood Automotive tire Gas


Stairs Automotive exterior Naval architecture Glass Boat
Table Tire Wood Automotive exterior Rectangle

And following with modular design, here's the rough plumbing that attaches with two bolts to the 8020 sink frame and the diy pipe hangers made in a post above.
Automotive tire Bumper Floor Automotive exterior Electrical wiring
 

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Nice! I'm curious: Are you going to sink a refrigerator into that "bump out" in the tall closet? That's something I've been thinking about. It would seem less imposing if it didn't have to project 24" into the "room."

I also have a favor to ask you: When it's convenient, could you measure from the rear pillar (where your aluminum angle starts by the rear doors) to that spot where your closet horizontal piece hits the aluminum angle at the forward end (it's around 4-5" aft of where the angle ends). I was thinking about using the bump out just aft of the one you have open, so would like to know the distance from the door jamb to where that bumpout would end (in other words, the beginning of the bumpout for the windows in the rear half of the van).

Or, just the length of that angle would give me a good idea.

I have the Sportsmobile graph paper layouts, but I don't think they are totally accurate for where the window bays are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Hey @Vanaroo The answer is 67.5" + or - 0.5". The angle is 70" long.
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Vehicle door

Automotive tire Product Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design

I'm not clear on how to use the open wall behind the refrigerator, so I did nothing. May need a vent fan for the toilet in the base, or more insulation behind the refrigerator. The cabinet is 24" deep before the cutout. No refrigerator picked out yet, but a larger upright with freezer space is part of the "emergency backup plan" the van will provide during power outages or disaster 😳.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Well that nice garage space became a kennel.
Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Gas Flooring

This morning I made the longest single cut with my jigsaw. Approximately 40 foot long.
Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor

Hopefully, I didn't waste my time and ruin a sheet. The bed will have a 1 foot wide piece hinged on the forward edge, then slide an additional foot as a finger pattern. 60" wide open, 38" wide with mattresses stacked and slid back.
Table Wood Rectangle Gas Hardwood

Hood Guitar accessory Wood Flooring Floor

Water Wood Boat Floor Vehicle

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SSV- you mentioned earlier, in comparing paint vs epoxy, that epoxy isn't UV resistant. It can be made UV resistant by adding some UV Absorber (BASF and Ciba Geigy both offer it).

I've worked with epoxy for quite a while and learned this from a client that managed a printing firm. He said if, for example, Tide soap didn't use UV absorber in their ink on their soap boxes, the ink would be faded out in 2-3 weeks and that in interior useage.

UV Absorber is what's added to paint, inks & other coatings to make them UV resistant. It simply takes UV light, refracts it to a visible section of the light spectrum - it's actually what is used to make reflective signs, like highway sighs, look like they're emitting more light than they are receiving, but is added to flourescent paints in heavier doses than you'd need for epoxy or normal paint. It comes in plastic bags and looks / feels like a super fine talcum powder. Once mixed in with whatever liquid, it disappears

link to BASF UV absorber page: UV absorbers

a 2nd option is to use UV Blocker, basically any carbon based black paint before painting with finishing paint. Or you can take some used black printer toner and mix with the epoxy for a finish coat.

FYI -
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I spent some time trying to come up with an edge treatment for the vinyl floor. The U shape at the sliding door step and curved body at the rear doors presented a challenge. In the end, I went with a cheap big box edging. It had a curved vertical face that resists bending. I creased it using a vise, two wood blocks and a nail at the location of each bend. The floor has a 1 5/8" vertical face (thickness) so the green board would be visible below the trim without something else. So I cut 2" wide strips from 40 year old flat roof membrane and tacked it to the plywood edge with aluminum cloth staples.
Automotive tire Rectangle Bumper Grey Composite material

Tire Grille Wheel Automotive tire Hood

Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive design Automotive tire

Not a great solution but it will do for now.

In another thread, folks debated whether closed cell foam added much support under foam board or just compressed to the floor ribs. Here's a pic showing a slight gap over the metal rib.
Automotive exterior Bumper Material property Tints and shades Rim

With additional weight, the minicell begins taking part of the load before the floor contacts the ribs.

The short-term grey water collection is 5 gallons under the sink. Before anyone says the trap isn't needed, I'll say it isn't needed. The container vents into the van so no added value by a trap. But, the two swing joints and removable drop pipe allow repositioning and easy disconnect for change out at a good price vs individual fittings.

Next steps are final systems test and adjustments, then start paneling the 8020 cabinets. I don't plan to post much on that part. There are so many great examples of finish work by others. I've tried to avoid posting what I've done if there are examples already posted. If I come up with something interesting I'll post it.
 
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