Ford Transit USA Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

First post and first conversion. I've never worked with electricity before and could really user some professional eyes to scan my diagram please!

137351


Open to any and all critiques and suggestions.

Specifically, does my ground look ok? Can I ground from the negative bus like this to chassis, and if so WHAT AWG wire do I need to ground? I was thinking same as largest input wire but I'm not sure.
Also is it easy to add an alternator connection after my build is complete? I want to plan ahead for this connection but I am unable to do it now.

Thanks for taking the time to help out the new guy!!
 

·
Registered
2019 MR RWB T150
Joined
·
92 Posts
The CCP “customer connection point” is your access to the alternator and is on the drivers side seat base right inside the door.
You can use the Blue Sea Circuit Wizard to check your wire sizes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
680 Posts
Looks like you're on track. I have essentially the same design. You don't need the chassis ground with this setup as is, and can leave your "House Side" floating. You may need it if you add a B2B or other form of alternator charging at a later time, depending on the route you take. Use 2/0. If a main 2/0 positive shorts you don't want your ground wire going into meltdown before a fuse ;)

I'd suggest going up to a 300A terminal fuse. Your inverter peak power (surge) is 3000W (250A), plus any other DC loads at the time. Your bank can handle a 300A surge fine.

Cheers,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Is there a reason that the MPPT bypasses everything (including the main shutoff) and goes directly to the battery? Also 10 guage to your panels is more than enough. And the shunt will have a small 18 guage cable that goes directly to battery pos.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
993 Posts
Just a couple of observations...
I would route the + from the charger to the + bus bar just for cleanliness
No charging from the vehicle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
\Use 2/0. If a main 2/0 positive shorts you don't want your ground wire going into meltdown before a fuse ;)

I'd suggest going up to a 300A terminal fuse. Your inverter peak power (surge) is 3000W (250A), plus any other DC loads at the time. Your bank can handle a 300A surge fine.

Cheers,
Perfect, thank you for the heads up. I'll upgrade to 300 to be safe. I think I'll ground it since I am planning to connect to alternator in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Is there a reason that the MPPT bypasses everything (including the main shutoff) and goes directly to the battery? Also 10 guage to your panels is more than enough. And the shunt will have a small 18 guage cable that goes directly to battery pos.
Yeah, I thought to wire it there so that I could disconnect both the batteries and the solar input from the system with the main kill switch. That way I can work on stuff. Does it make no difference wiring to the + bus bar instead?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Just a couple of observations...
I would route the + from the charger to the + bus bar just for cleanliness
No charging from the vehicle?
I have had this feedback before. I wired it to the other side of the main kill switch so that I could disconnect the solar input and the batteries in one switch if I needed to. But maybe it won't make a difference?
And yes I plan on upgrading to an alternator connection later on, that aspect of the build is just a little over my head since this is my first time working with electricity. Do you have experience connecting to the alternator ? Is it an easy add-on once I've finished my build ? Was thinking about hiring a mechanic for this part in fact...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
993 Posts
You need to be able to kill solar power at the circuit that runs from the panels to the solar controller as you can damage the controller if it is not connected to a battery bank first. So to power down, cut the solar panels off then cut off the battery. For mine, I cut solar, the the connection to the vehicle, and then the battery cut off.

I actually installed a DC>DC charger before I added solar. What you have to do to install this is not as complicated as getting an understanding of how the charging system on your vehicle is designed and its implications for how to connect to it to get the performance you want. 2020+ models have some differences in the CCP connections on the port side of the driver's seat pedestal from earlier models. There at least three popular approaches to getting charging current from the vehicle to your leisure/house battery bank. Some folks use a direct connection with a battery isolator, some use a DC>DC charger, and then there is "The Orton approach" using an inverter to power a shore DC changer. Each have strengths and weaknesses so you have to think about your personal use cases and preferences to come up with what is right for you.

There are a lot of experienced folks around here that will be happy to help you along the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
The Victron 100/30 only supports 6ga. wire at its terminals so your 4ga will not directly connect to the 100/30. At a max of 30A, if the run is short 6ga. should be OK.

I'd leave the 8ga on the solar side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The Victron 100/30 only supports 6ga. wire at its terminals so your 4ga will not directly connect to the 100/30. At a max of 30A, if the run is short 6ga. should be OK.

I'd leave the 8ga on the solar side.
thank you for this man you're a life saver 👏
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
You need to be able to kill solar power at the circuit that runs from the panels to the solar controller as you can damage the controller if it is not connected to a battery bank first. So to power down, cut the solar panels off then cut off the battery. For mine, I cut solar, the the connection to the vehicle, and then the battery cut off.

I actually installed a DC>DC charger before I added solar. What you have to do to install this is not as complicated as getting an understanding of how the charging system on your vehicle is designed and its implications for how to connect to it to get the performance you want. 2020+ models have some differences in the CCP connections on the port side of the driver's seat pedestal from earlier models. There at least three popular approaches to getting charging current from the vehicle to your leisure/house battery bank. Some folks use a direct connection with a battery isolator, some use a DC>DC charger, and then there is "The Orton approach" using an inverter to power a shore DC changer. Each have strengths and weaknesses so you have to think about your personal use cases and preferences to come up with what is right for you.

There are a lot of experienced folks around here that will be happy to help you along the way.
awesome thank you. I think i'll wire the controller to the + bus so I can disconnect each individually.
I have LiFePo house batteries so I think a DC->DC will be necessary. I will need everybody's help on the forum to undertake that one lol
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top