[camp&ride]

There seems to be a fair bit of discussion on Solar System setups (panels, batteries, cabling, mounting, etc) throughout many of the threads on this forum. Rather than wading though all the build threads, perhaps we can consolidate & share info on solar/electrical system design/setup for those looking to power their VANlife. Here's a few items to get it started:

> Considerations/design criteria/application for your system
> Rack/mount system, materials/products used, and attachment method to van
> Solar Panels (watts, size, other considerations for choice, etc)
> Cabling (type, wire gage, connector types, routing/roof entry point, etc)
> Charge Controller & monitoring system (product, where mounted, etc)
> Battery Bank (Amp*hour, battery brand, dimensions, where mounted, etc)

What did I miss? Fire away!

 

[ted]

I would suggest getting your own battery tester so at least you have a way to rule out if the battery is your issue if you ever have a power issue, some amp meters do that some done

 

[fastmtnbiker]

Here's your rack system to mount both your panel and your awning. This fits in the pre-drilled holes in the roof.

Ford Transit Aluminum and Steel Roof Rack Systems

 

[orton]

My 08 Sprinter had a single 205 watt panel and a Morningstar SunSaver MPPT controller. Battery was a 8D 255 amp-hr LifeLine AGM. My major load was a 4 amp Dometic 12v/120V refrigerator. I live where the sun shines most of the time. That combination supplied all the power I needed without having to connect to shore power for my last year of Sprinter ownership.

I will copy the same system on the Transit except for the panel will change from the 205 watts to a LG 300 watt panel. Same physical size panel just higher output.

Decided not to build a rack to support panel or use the existing tapped Transit roof holes. I will have a stealth camper so do not want a rack to show any more than necessary. Will bolt four 6" long 3/16" x 1 1/2" aluminum angles to the bottom of the LG panel mounting holes. I will fabricate four 14 ga. SS angles that bolt between the aluminum angles and the roof. Fabricated SS angles sit on top of a roof corrugation. Four new holes in the roof.

Attached is the drawing.

 

[Zyzzyx]

Orton,


When travelling in the summer, what kind of draw or cycle time did you see from the fridge? I'm just starting to do load calculations; I get what kind of load a 4 amp fridge has if it runs for an hour, but I've no idea where to start for cycle time and overall daily load for a fridge.

 

[CrewVanMan]

Look at this website for information on the solar panel installation:

Sportsmobile Custom Camper Vans - Solar Panels

 

[orton]

Orton,


When travelling in the summer, what kind of draw or cycle time did you see from the fridge? I'm just starting to do load calculations; I get what kind of load a 4 amp fridge has if it runs for an hour, but I've no idea where to start for cycle time and overall daily load for a fridge.

As you know it all depends on interior van temperature. I have not timed the run time at different temperatures. For calculations maybe 50%? I do know that there are a couple of things you can do to reduce the amperage used for refrigeration.

1. Cut a hole in the floor behind refrigerator so cool air will be pulled from under van past the refrigerator coil and out the open roof vent.
2. I let van get cold inside at night and use a 12 volt heating pad to stay warm. Refrigerator runs less in cold van.
3. I (will) have two inverters. One powered by the Transit 12 volt system. I can supply 120 AC power to the refrigerator while driving to eliminate using the house battery for the refrigerator.
4. Surround the refrigerator installation with 1 1/2" of rigid foam insulation. Not much insulation in a stock refrigerator.

 

[Zyzzyx]

Thanks for the info.


Yep, looking at doing all of those steps. Your build has been inspirational for ideas to use. Though cost may delay getting a second inverter, and I'll have to bargain with my girl on how cold to let the van get overnight. (though during the summer it'll be with windows opened and probably the fan on)

 

[ultane]

Anyone have any idea who makes the best, and most powerful flexible solar panels?

 

[vnehess]

Not sure if this qualifies as best, but I selected this product Monocrystalline-Bendable-Solar-Panel.

I ordered 2, for 200W total, i will still have room for 1 additional if i'm not happy with the real world output.

My use is for camping at airports in the western states in summer ( I am a Glider pilot, flying contests and cross country). My modest loads include a cooler ( ARB 12V 50qt ), LED lighting, charge laptop and maxair fan.

I will install with VBH tape. Will post photos in a few weeks when these are attached.

To be ordered: 2 100Ah batteries for the house array.

 

[USMC Vet]

12V power splitter

I'm adding 200V of solar power to my van, and want to find a quality 12V power splitter (with USB). Several that I've seen have fairly limited power output limits, and/or short, wimpy cords (I need around 3-4 feet of length). I'm looking for a recommendation, please.

Bringing a copy of "badsocref" 's request over to one of the solar threads to see if he can get some help.

Semper Fi

 

[GaryBIS]

Orton,


When travelling in the summer, what kind of draw or cycle time did you see from the fridge? I'm just starting to do load calculations; I get what kind of load a 4 amp fridge has if it runs for an hour, but I've no idea where to start for cycle time and overall daily load for a fridge.

Hi,
Probably too late to help you, but I put an amp-hr meter on my Norcold 751 fridge for 2 days and found that the run time was very close to 50%.
This fridge also draws about 4 amps, and used the efficient Danfoss compressor. I have more data on the test if its of interest.

Gary

 

[Zyzzyx]

Hi,
Probably too late to help you, but I put an amp-hr meter on my Norcold 751 fridge for 2 days and found that the run time was very close to 50%.
This fridge also draws about 4 amps, and used the efficient Danfoss compressor. I have more data on the test if its of interest.

Gary

Not too late, have only had the van three weeks now, haven't done much yet. Probably be another couple months before a fridge purchase. Thanks for the info on runtime.

 

[tthrsn]

Hi,
Probably too late to help you, but I put an amp-hr meter on my Norcold 751 fridge for 2 days and found that the run time was very close to 50%.
This fridge also draws about 4 amps, and used the efficient Danfoss compressor. I have more data on the test if its of interest.

Gary

I would be interested in more details.

 

[orton]

Hi,
Probably too late to help you, but I put an amp-hr meter on my Norcold 751 fridge for 2 days and found that the run time was very close to 50%.
This fridge also draws about 4 amps, and used the efficient Danfoss compressor. I have more data on the test if its of interest.

Gary

1. At what exterior ambient temperature?
2. At what interior temperature?
3. Roof fan operating or just open?
4. Do you have a hole in floor and roof opening for natural draft air flow?
5. Did you add additional insulation around outside of refrigerator housing?
6. How full was refrigerator?

I never checked the run time on my 80 liter Danfoss compressor refrigerator I had in the Sprinter so am curious.

 

[GaryBIS]

1. At what exterior ambient temperature?
2. At what interior temperature?
3. Roof fan operating or just open?
4. Do you have a hole in floor and roof opening for natural draft air flow?
5. Did you add additional insulation around outside of refrigerator housing?
6. How full was refrigerator?

I never checked the run time on my 80 liter Danfoss compressor refrigerator I had in the Sprinter so am curious.

Hi,
Sorry I missed the followon question -- here is the full test data:
http://www.buildagreenrv.com/design...alley/measuring-refrigerator-electricity-use/

--No extra venting around the fridge (just the space under it that they require) -- this would probably be a good idea to add. I can't remember if there is a fan to move air over the coils, but if not, a very small 12volt fan blowing air over the coils when the fridge is running might be a good idea -- the little fan on my composting toilet only draws 1 watt.

--I did end up mounting the fridge below stove and next to furnace, but I added an inch of Polyiso insulation (R6.5) between the fridge and the warm appliances.

Gary

 

[accrete]

...I'll have to bargain with my girl on how cold to let the van get overnight...

YMMV : )

My "Girl" is A-OK with letting the van do whatever the outside ambient temps are going to do at night. Plenty of body heat between two peeps inside to keep it bearable in the van, and cozy under covers.

Put a kettle on the 12K BTU Butane stove for morning tea and the interior warms up quickly (window / roof vent for circulation).

I've shared before that we've woken up to snow on van-roof and ground and had no idea that's what we'd find opening the slider.

We still sort of think of a van as simply a metal-tent (that to us has many advantages) rather than a home-on-wheels with all the trappings and upkeep of one.

Thom

 

[tthrsn]

Hi ... here is the full test data:
http://www.buildagreenrv.com/design...alley/measuring-refrigerator-electricity-use/
Gary

Thank you for the very detailed and informative report. It will be very helpful when sizing house batteries for my conversion.

 

[rascorp]

I expect delivery of 3 12v 200ah batteries, with AIMs 4000 w, inverter. Will try to get a couple of hours a day with 13.5 btu a/c unit, during rest stop naps!. What got my attention was you information that you are a glider pilot.
About 35 yrs ago I received my commercail hot air balloon pilot's license. The 20 yrs later I decided to try to fixed wing add-0n. During that time health issue prevented me, so I settled for a glider license, a commercial hot air balloon license, and a year later I finally got my SEL. Once flew my motor glider from Panhandle Florida to Oshkosh. Had to make one stop in Rockford , Ill to refuel and to get flight rules for arriving a day ahead of schedule. Now my wife will only let me drive my Transit high roof, long bed motorhome conversion.
My heart is still up in the air in silent flight.

 

[rascorp]

Glider Pilot...love the sport. I started flying hot air balloons back in 1975 with one of the first Commerical Hot Air Balloon licenses. Then 30 years go by and decided to get my SEL, while in that process, I had heart surgery so put that on shelf for a while. STill wanted to fly so took glider training and purchased a Pipistrel motorglider from mfg in Slovenia. Flew once from Destin, Fl to Oshkosh and landed in the D day type decent. Then did that again in Lakeland. That was enough excitement for my wife so sold the glider, Then a bought a new Diamond XLS after getting my medical back. Wife won't let me fly anymore... too clumsy, and she thinks I'm too old. Wife and I traveled USA-Canada in 2010 Winnebago ERA last couple years, a month at a time, Sturgis, Burning Man etc. This past October purchased a 2015 Transit Wagon 350 HD, high and long. Now completing my first full conversion. Recently installed Renogy Eclipse,400 watts (RNG-100MV Monocrysatalline 4 solar Panels) , Renogy 40 AMP MMPT Solar Charge Controller, MT5 Tracer Meter for MMPT (remote w/LCD display) brackets cables: $1,122. I had max room for 4 panels on roof (400 watts). I don't have pictures yet, as still working daily to finish complete project. So far I am able to run my 13,500 BTU Coleman A/C unit for 7 hrs from my 3 Sealed Lead Acid 12v batteries, 4000 w AIMS inverter. Waiting for delivery of Sterling 120 amp B to B charger as well. Still testing and learning. Starting from scratch, with 0 knowledge but believe I get to understand the system as I use it. Mostly we camp in RV park, so don't need to use battery to power appliances for too long, but we stop a lot for naps and 3-5 hr overnites while traveling to a destination.