[Craddical]

Hello I have a Keyline 140amp Smart isolator hooked up to my 2017 Ford Transit CCP via the 60amp fuse provided. I have been using this with no problems for about 3 weeks now.

Today my recreational battery system got pretty low (as the van has been sitting with not much charge) and the Keyline Isolator was making a clicking sound. It continued to make a clicking sound every 15 seconds and then eventually stopped.

Now my battery isolator won't turn on at all..

All of the connections are tight, and I'm wondering if maybe the 60amp fuse blew, and if there's any way to tell without having to remove the entire battery box.

Any information at all would be very helpful

Thank you so much for reading

 

[Vanpackr]

Sounds like a good possibility. You could hook it directly to the battery and see what happens. What is the size of your leisure battery bank?

 

[Sparky961]

Hello I have a Keyline 140amp Smart isolator hooked up to my 2017 Ford Transit CCP via the 60amp fuse provided. I have been using this with no problems for about 3 weeks now.

Today my recreational battery system got pretty low (as the van has been sitting with not much charge) and the Keyline Isolator was making a clicking sound. It continued to make a clicking sound every 15 seconds and then eventually stopped.

Now my battery isolator won't turn on at all..

All of the connections are tight, and I'm wondering if maybe the 60amp fuse blew, and if there's any way to tell without having to remove the entire battery box.

Any information at all would be very helpful

Thank you so much for reading

If you don't already have a DVOM/Multimeter, buy or borrow one before proceeding.

With your isolator disconnected, measure the voltage between ground (either the battery negative or any bare metal directly connected to the vehicle frame - door latch/catch is a good candidate here) and the CCP you used. If it's 0V or close, you've almost certainly blown the fuse. If you've taken the seat off and have the battery box open then you can test the continuity of the fuse directly.

If the isolator is good for 140A (and check if this is a continuous or peak rating, I suspect the latter), it should be on a circuit that can supply at least that. Combining the CCPs is commonly done here, and if you're digging into the battery box now would be a good time to do that if you so choose.

The clicking was probably a thermal overload shutting it down, if I have to guess. Why it worked for a while and then didn't - anyone's guess. You'd need to look at how much current is actually flowing in order to diagnose things further. This can be done with a current shunt or a clamp on meter with the appropriate range.

PS:
Looking at the Amazon listing, it looks like this device contains at least one or more electromechanical relays, rather than solid state current limiting electronics. This means that if your batteries were low enough that they'd accept more than 60A (very likely) then current would flow at a rate limited only by the batteries. On my 235 Ah Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) bank at about 50% discharge, I see current approach 100A or so right when charging starts. It quickly drops down to more reasonable levels, but my fusing and wires are designed for much higher currents.