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Discussion Starter #1
I’d like a few suggestions on how to do a basic upgrade to my 2019 standard sound system. Not looking for anything fancy or intensive; just better sound. Our system sounds ok now, but there’s no midrange and the bass is hard to hear because the speakers are in the rear door underneath our camper platform bed. Thanks.
 

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The single best thing you can do for any stock auto sound system is upgrade the speakers.

After that, you can decide what else you might want. But that will give you the most bang for the buck by far.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Grazie. Can you recommend a brand? I need mor mid range and I’m not sure where I can move those rear door speakers.
 

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yep, speakers are #1 most important part of a sound system. You can have a $10k system, but $20 speakers will make it sound like crap.
Also "brand name" expensive speakers are one of the biggest rip=offs in audio, right after expensive cables. Check the specs and read the reviews instead of looking at price and brand.
I'm content with the factor door/dash speakers. The van is so loud when driving that I don't think I would benefit much with upgraded speakers.
 

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Grazie. Can you recommend a brand? I need mor mid range and I’m not sure where I can move those rear door speakers.
Almost anything would be better than stock. Stock speakers are built to a low price point. Probably about $1. Have you tried adjusting the EQ in the setup for more midrange?

There are a couple holes about halfway up the van on the side walls that would be perfect for getting the speakers out of the rear doors, or as an addition.
 

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Oh, I forgot one of the reasons why I get acceptable sound from the stock speakers: I have an aftermarket head with a 10 band EQ. I always cut the mids because cheap speakers are always mid heavy. I do an "M" pattern with peaks at 200 and 12k hz. Almost zero-out at 3-4k.
 

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Many other people have done this before you, This is just one of several threads on this subject.

 

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Grazie. Can you recommend a brand? I need mor mid range and I’m not sure where I can move those rear door speakers.
When selecting a speaker for a system that is driven by the head unit (no amp) don’t buy the powerful 400w or so speakers that will fit in the same opening these will be too low of resistance for the stock or aftermarket head unit without an amp. Stick to speakers with the same resistance as the OEM usually about 4 ohms, this will provide the most sound output and least distortion. This is because the speaker driver (inside the head unit or amp) has a thevenin equivalent resistance and this needs to be matched to the speaker for maximum power and least distortion.
A speaker that is 2 way or 3 way will have have built in tweeters with a passive crossover integrated, these are a good choice in my opinion to replace stock speakers
The front doors will fit 6.5” speakers with some modification and the rear I think are the same but they can also be relocated if you don’t what them in your storage area. Cutouts for another set of 6.5” speakers are midway in the back of my long wheelbase van
 

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All my cars have kicker speakers including the van. Another option you may consider is Kicker key amplifiers. Due to the size of the van and the incredible distance between speakers, time correction in the sound can be a boon. If I were to do mine over it would be kicker components in the front, although the tweeter is a pain to replace, get rid of the rear speakers and add a small sub-woofer under the passenger seat.

$710 bucks but will likely knock your socks off.

 

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may i suggest something that I use in the van and in my boat and then bring it and use in my office.

JBL Charge bluetooth speakers,
You can connect them via wireless/bluetooth and jam away
I have double stick 3m velco on the bottom and this keeps it from flying around.
 

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Change the speakers and if you have the space, add a subwoofer. JBL offers versatile options and available on Amazon.
Another thing you can do.... for driving I use my factory system but for camping I put a small Bose wave in the back there, sounds awesome and hardly draws anything so you can probably stick a portable inverter in the rear lighter socket and run it if you dont have 120VAC. The Bose has CD also.
 

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I bought a car last year, not a van or even a Ford, and wasn't overly thrilled with the base and overall sound. I went to a few places to get prices on new speakers and the third place I went to the manager came out to the car and listened and said "Well, I can sell you some 600 - 700 dollar speakers and you are likely not going to hear much of a difference. Come on inside and I'll show you something." We went inside and he showed me side by side speakers, one in a standard cabinet, the other in a cabinet lined with dynamat.... Bass, much better sound, out of the same speaker. I've yet to tear out my panels and put some sound deadening in the car, but I'm definitely doing that before investing in new speakers. We're looking at picking up a Transit cargo van to convert and sound deadening will probably be the first thing we do. I expect it'll help with the sound more than changing speakers. You'll need to move the speakers out from under the bed, but you might want to look into sound deadening before new speakers. Different brand of speakers/sound deadening, but same idea in this video:
 

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You don't have to spend $700 on speakers. I've replaced stock speakers on several vehicles with $60-75 speakers and heard a huge difference. In sound systems, just like about anything else, there's a point where you reach the point of diminishing returns and it's usually not in the most expensive solutions. At any rate, the stock speakers are super cheap and it's easy to find improvement.

That being said, there are also much cheaper options than Dynamat. Check out Noico on Amazon. Good stuff at a much better price. And these vans certainly benefit from a lot of sound deadening since there's so much hollow volume and so many resonating panels.
 

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My point was, everybody in this thread so far had talked of getting new speakers, that seems to be the common thread in many forums. I was surprised to have a sound guy tell me my first best and most bang for the buck upgrade would be sound deadening that I could do myself on the cheap. He had plenty of less expensive speakers, his point was that a speaker upgrade isn't necessarily a fix unless you do the sound deadening, and sound deadening alone may do what I was looking for (increasing the mid-base and base and getting a more substantial sound). Googling sound deadening versus new speakers tends to back up what he was telling me. The base speakers in my SUV aren't all that bad, won't wear as well over time I suspect though. I'm looking at Kilmat, which is slightly less than the Noico and made of the same stuff as Dynamat. Apparently Noico has a thin layer of asphalt included and I'd like to avoid that. Assuming we do pick up the Transit, noise deadening will be done before even thinking about changing out speakers.
 

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$40 Cerwin Vega 6.5" dual voicecoil speakers in the doors would be a big difference in sound quality. Ebay, Amazon.

I guess we all assumed you'd already stuck a few pieces of rattle-trap on the big sheet metal panels. It doesn't take much, definitely not as much as car audio nerds do (the entire panel!). A 25% coverage in the middle of the panel will stop about 90%+ of it's drum-head style reverberation and rattling. I have used self adhesive rubber construction window sealer for decades in multiple vehicles with no problems. The denser the better, so laying a second strip on top of the first will be a bit more effective.

140001
 
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Thanks. I’ve had the same set of CV Re Series speakers in my living room for 20 yrs and they regularly blow my friends minds.
 

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Thanks. I’ve had the same set of CV Re Series speakers in my living room for 20 yrs and they regularly blow my friends minds.
I've had several pairs of vintage audiophile speakers over the years, I just sold two pairs of Magnepan MGII-B. I had some HUGE Cerwin Vegas years ago. I don't know who owns the company now, or where they're made (probably China like 98% of everything else in the world), but the specs on the 6.5 speakers I saw were decent and probably much better than the factory speakers. There's a tutorial on how to cut apart the factory speakers and use their frame as an adapter for standard 6.5" speakers on the forum.
 
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