Ford Transit USA Forum banner

301 - 316 of 316 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
Discussion Starter #301
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,214 Posts
I use a 50 cent grade 8 bolt, hardened washer, an oversize nut and serrated washer to install riv and plusnuts much like this pic I found on google. I drive them tight with my cordless 1/4 impact driver and an open end wrench to hold the oversize nut still. I have installed many hundreds of plusnuts this way.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
I also stopped using Plusnuts. Seems like they do not like thin sheet metal. I had 4 or 5 spin on me and had to grind them off to get remove them - it was super frustrating! Rivnuts crush all the way around and I've yet to have one spin.

I have a whole bag of plusnuts if anyone wants them =)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I went with the rivnuts and a 50$ rexbeti tool (came with a bunch of rivnuts as well) and they take about 30 seconds to install, fit perfectly into the existing holes in the van, and are rock solid. I have no idea why people think plusnuts are necessary at nearly 1$/piece.

On a separate note - anyone (including Inkog) who has followed Inkog's bed design, I'm wondering if there are any tricks to finding the right locations on the 1/2in ply to drill holes for bolts that will go into the rivnuts. I have installed my rivnuts for the bed supports and cut my ply, but I don't trust my measuring skills to drill holes in perfect locations.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
I went with the rivnuts and a 50$ rexbeti tool (came with a bunch of rivnuts as well) and they take about 30 seconds to install, fit perfectly into the existing holes in the van, and are rock solid. I have no idea why people think plusnuts are necessary at nearly 1$/piece.

On a separate note - anyone (including Inkog) who has followed Inkog's bed design, I'm wondering if there are any tricks to finding the right locations on the 1/2in ply to drill holes for bolts that will go into the rivnuts. I have installed my rivnuts for the bed supports and cut my ply, but I don't trust my measuring skills to drill holes in perfect locations.
you get the hanger bolts from home depot - they are 1/4-20 on one side and wood screw on the other. Install the nuts, put in hanger bolts, bring the piece of wood into the van and knock it with a rubber mallet or covered hammer at each of the bolt positions. Drill the holes in the board with a 3/8" bit - everything fits perfect!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
you get the hanger bolts from home depot - they are 1/4-20 on one side and wood screw on the other. Install the nuts, put in hanger bolts, bring the piece of wood into the van and knock it with a rubber mallet or covered hammer at each of the bolt positions. Drill the holes in the board with a 3/8" bit - everything fits perfect!
WOAH never heard of those bolts - nice! forgive my stupidity, but then how do you clean up the exposed tip of the wood screw and make sure it is super secure?

Or do you just use the hanger bolts for the purpose of marking the locations for your holes...?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
WOAH never heard of those bolts - nice! forgive my stupidity, but then how do you clean up the exposed tip of the wood screw and make sure it is super secure?

Or do you just use the hanger bolts for the purpose of marking the locations for your holes...?
Just to mark the location on the wood. If you use a 3/8" in bit every nut should be easily accessible. I left the hanger bolts in to check the placement before removing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Hello, new to this forum but what a great build and great documentation! Thanks for that! I am still in research mode and am pretty well set on a Transit but the exact model and all that will likely be determined by whatever great deal I stumble across first. Here is hoping the new 2020's drop soon so maybe I can score a massive deal on a 2019 (seen some within a few hours of me with the Quigley already complete been sitting for a couple months).
I am sure I will be asking a lot of questions once I start (mainly electrical as I suck at that). Again, thanks for the work on documenting and congrats on a great build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
Discussion Starter #309 (Edited)
WOAH never heard of those bolts - nice! forgive my stupidity, but then how do you clean up the exposed tip of the wood screw and make sure it is super secure?

Or do you just use the hanger bolts for the purpose of marking the locations for your holes...?
I made essentially the same thing by cutting off the heads of bolts and grinding them to a point. I eventually switched to using a little latex paint (it dries slowly) as a time saver. I painted the rim of the rivnuts and pressed the board up against it. It leaves perfect rings for locating the hole and was more accurate since the workpiece sits flush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
This photo is from yesterday when I hadn't yet gotten the little L-brackets installed on the ends of the skorva beams, but I finished that up today. It's looking great! One side seams to have enough play to hear the wood rub against the metal a bit while driving so I am hoping that just tightening some bolts will fix that.

I'm going to put the platform on tomorrow. I was hoping to be able to useslats or 1x2s but there will be too much space on the ends for the mattress to flop into. I'm not so keen on buying 2 more sheets of expensive 1/2 inch ply, and not having breathability underr the mattress. thoughts anyone?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
This photo is from yesterday when I hadn't yet gotten the little L-brackets installed on the ends of the skorva beams, but I finished that up today. It's looking great! One side seams to have enough play to hear the wood rub against the metal a bit while driving so I am hoping that just tightening some bolts will fix that.

I'm going to put the platform on tomorrow. I was hoping to be able to useslats or 1x2s but there will be too much space on the ends for the mattress to flop into. I'm not so keen on buying 2 more sheets of expensive 1/2 inch ply, and not having breathability underr the mattress. thoughts anyone?


Last winter there was lots of hysteria on various RV forums about black mold on and under the bed. 100% had plywood under bed, most had garage or 5th wheel hitch under bed. Condensation!

Can be countered by insulation and ventilation. Good luck.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
Discussion Starter #312
This photo is from yesterday when I hadn't yet gotten the little L-brackets installed on the ends of the skorva beams, but I finished that up today. It's looking great! One side seams to have enough play to hear the wood rub against the metal a bit while driving so I am hoping that just tightening some bolts will fix that.

I'm going to put the platform on tomorrow. I was hoping to be able to useslats or 1x2s but there will be too much space on the ends for the mattress to flop into. I'm not so keen on buying 2 more sheets of expensive 1/2 inch ply, and not having breathability underr the mattress. thoughts anyone?
Looking good.

I've not had any moisture problems under the mattress with solid ply, but I don't full time. I will recommend aligning your panels North-South instead of East-West as I did. Mine were impossible to remove once I built in the cabinetry and I had to cut them in half later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
The condenser has to be mounted with at least a 15* slope from horizontal, so it will be doable. It is designed for auto applications, so I assume it will hold up. Time will tell. I spoke with the owner of the company about the condenser fan noise. He didn't have any dB figures, but said it was comparable to your typical auto radiator fan.

The compressor they use is pretty quiet from my research. They use them in marine and big-rig applications where they are installed in the living areas. I've read reviews stating they are much quieter than your typical RV roof unit. I do plan to use sound deadening insulation inside the cabinet where its installed, probably leftover Thinsulate.


I figure if it doesn't work out, I'll remove it and install it into the Rat Rod I plan to build when I retire. >:D
just a suggestion but i'd reconsider the condenser location - the aluminum fins oxide on their own from pollutants in the atmosphere much less from the salts and road debris it will encounter under the vehicle. When i clean the coils on my house A/C condenser i can feel the difference in colder air temps because of the increased efficiency of having cleaned the fins. Plus those fins and piping are not going to tolerate being struck by airborne grit, sand or even pebbles for very long

just a suggestion
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Does it matter what kind of plusnuts you use with this tool? I've heard some people have trouble with it and I'm guessing it has to do with the kind of plusnuts being used. Also, ever seen this page?:
gist.github.com/natecostello/1f65160704ac76840bf361ee1c70398e
Hey! Thats me! I can't speak for rivnuts, but once I worked out the method documented above, I've had a perfect record with plusnut installs. One additional tip is to count the revolutions so you get the right amount of crush. Let me know if you have any questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
I also stopped using Plusnuts. Seems like they do not like thin sheet metal. I had 4 or 5 spin on me and had to grind them off to get remove them - it was super frustrating! Rivnuts crush all the way around and I've yet to have one spin.

I have a whole bag of plusnuts if anyone wants them =)
Sorry to hear about the spinning issue. I’ve installed about 150 slotted, pre-bulbed inserts with this set-up using a cordless impact driver and haven’t had a single spin. I used a regular drill once and it was evident an impact driver was necessary. Too much torque with a regular drill. When the outer piece of the installation tool finishes crushing the insert the impact drill just ratchets.

I bought 100 packs of Hanson inserts on Amazon for around $53 if I remember correctly. I think the tool with 2 each 1/4-20 and 1/4-28 drivebolts was around $28.
131269
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
WOAH never heard of those bolts - nice! forgive my stupidity, but then how do you clean up the exposed tip of the wood screw and make sure it is super secure?

Or do you just use the hanger bolts for the purpose of marking the locations for your holes...?
I used transfer screws to line up most of my holes. There were a few holes in wood that were the right size for regular dowel points as well. The only modification I needed was to drill 5/16” holes for 1/4” bolts for a little leeway on larger panels. Worked pretty well. I did cut a few bolts when I needed to extend from bolt holes that were recessed. (See picture for all of the above.)
131270
 
301 - 316 of 316 Posts
Top