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Discussion Starter #1
So a couple of weeks ago we got our new to us, shiny like new 2018 Transit 148" WB high roof extended. Stripped out the interior and touched up the floor paint. Next step is to hang a gray water waste tank behind the rear axle - lots of space there. I'm wondering what to do with the removed wall panels and floor mat. I've posted it on the web for sale sites, but it seems like no interest. Has anyone got any suggestions?
Marty
 

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I have a friend looking for panels in Oregon. Where are you located?

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If you're going to put in walls and a floor, you might want to hang onto your existing parts to use as templates. Then get rid of them.
 

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What was under the wall panels& flooring? I assume you had the black plastic"cargo protection" panels and vinyl floor mat?
 

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What is your asking price? We may be interested in taking them in on trade for Thinsulate(TM) SM600L insulation or other items we have for your build. We are in Hood River, OR if you feel like taking a drive in your new van. We have a lot of customers who come from up north for our supplies and to get help/advice on their builds. Probably worth the trip just for the tax savings. Oregon has no sales tax.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
541 490 5098
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Progress report:
Gray tank 28 Gal. installed behind rear axle, floor framing complete and floor insulation is done. Next steps are the 120 ac power, the water lines and the plywood flooring!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Floors in! Ran water lines and 120 a/c under the floor. Hole in the floor at back is for the gas locker.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Scopema swivel installed in passenger seat, Fantastic fan in, Ventline fan in, Midi Heki skylight in, ceiling framing done, CR Lawrence windows in, Trailer hitch in, and running boards. So far so good! Next to start wall and cabinet framing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Propane gas locker mostly complete, building it according to the NFPA standards. Cabinet for the 9 cu ft Nova Kool complete. Access hatch for the Thetford C223-CS cassette toilet installed. A big thankyou to jhrodd (Jeff) for his pictures and guidence on the install. Starting on the formed in place fiberglass shower pan next.
 

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Propane locker looks good. Did you leave the floor section out below if just to not have doubled up plywood? Or is there a technical reason for it to be it's own self contained unit?

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Mcole9 thank you for your pictures. I have the same van. I wonder what windows in both sldes would look like & if I should do that. Best of luck with your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
IanCH, I did leave the floor out so it would not be doubled up, but also for a couple of other reasons. The first is that I wanted the locker to be completely isolated. NFPA says the locker(compartment) needs to be vaor resistant to the inside of the van. I felt it would be easier to do this if I keep it separate. The second was to make sure the top and bottom vents are isolated to the outside and third was the fastening of the locker. It is required that the propane tank is secured to withstand 8 times the weight of the largest tank. The locker is fastened to the wall with 4 plusnuts and is glued to the metal floor with 3M5200 adheasive. The locker is going no place. I went with a locker because standard tanks are cheaper, easier to access than under floor tanks, and will hold both the main tank and the barbeque tank.

Hope this helps!

Marty
 

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IanCH, I did leave the floor out so it would not be doubled up, but also for a couple of other reasons. The first is that I wanted the locker to be completely isolated. NFPA says the locker(compartment) needs to be vaor resistant to the inside of the van. I felt it would be easier to do this if I keep it separate. The second was to make sure the top and bottom vents are isolated to the outside and third was the fastening of the locker. It is required that the propane tank is secured to withstand 8 times the weight of the largest tank. The locker is fastened to the wall with 4 plusnuts and is glued to the metal floor with 3M5200 adheasive. The locker is going no place. I went with a locker because standard tanks are cheaper, easier to access than under floor tanks, and will hold both the main tank and the barbeque tank.

Hope this helps!

Marty
All great things to know, thank you for the detailed reply.

I believe you could accomplish the factors you mentioned with a one piece floor but the 5200 bond to the floor is unique to your method.

I asked because I am cutting up my floor and installing this week - lost of things to consider! I am theorizing to fit a 30lb tank instead of a standard 20 - but it would restrict my refill options.
 

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Nice job on the locker! With my limited construction skill set, I don't trust myself to not blow myself up, so I went with a marine propane locker. I saw one homebrew locker online where they hose-clamped a hose to the pressure relief valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry for not posting sooner, but I've been too busy doing the conversion.
Since my last posting I have put swivels on both the front seats. Doing the drivers side is a real pain with moving the ebrake - glad it's done. While I was at it I put in the power feed for the Renogy B2B converter with a run time relay to switch it on and off. Installed the lithium batteries, B2B converter, Freedom 2000watt inverter and solar power MPPT controler. All squeesed in between the gas locker and refrigerator. On the other side of the van installed a Suburban 6 gal water heater and a Suburban 16,000Btu furnace. All this stuff is underneath the bed platform.
Today installed the NovaKool refrigerator while sanding the fibreglass shower base. Lots more to do, but getting there. If anyone has any questions just let me know!
 

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