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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need atleast 38" of clearance in order to store by bikes underneath the bed in the "garage" and I was thinking I'd just secure two 8020 rails to the walls of the van. Problem is I only have 2 plusnut holes per rail to mount on the walls.

My thought today is to drill holes in the 8020 to secure directly to the plusnuts. Which means I probably have to drill two more holes in the van for the top half of the double 10 series 8020. Then have 2-3 "Ts" that support each rail that grabs atleast one plusnut below.

has anybody utilized the same plusnut holes? if so how did you secure your bed platform?

152444

152446
 

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I also used 8020 for my bed platform but took a different design approach that you might want to consider. This design also uses plus nuts. The bunk is quite secure and solid. My build is still very much a work in process. pictures below ....
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I also used 8020 for my bed platform but took a different design approach that you might want to consider. This design also uses plus nuts. The bunk is quite secure and solid. My build is still very much a work in process. pictures below .... View attachment 152458 View attachment 152459 View attachment 152460
Got it, super helpful. So it looks like you have 3 perpendicular support beams spaced evenly apart per bed rail. Each secured to the van plus nut holes via drilled holes and secured to the bed rails via 2 angled brackets each.

I may do the same. So double 8020s for the support beams and single 8020s for the rails?
 

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I also used 8020 for my bed platform but took a different design approach that you might want to consider. This design also uses plus nuts. The bunk is quite secure and solid. My build is still very much a work in process. pictures below ....
This is a a good approach. Unlike the walls, the floor is designed to carry significant loads. Just curious, is there any particular reason that you used the "double wide" 8020 for you vertical members?
 

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This is a a good approach. Unlike the walls, the floor is designed to carry significant loads. Just curious, is there any particular reason that you used the "double wide" 8020 for you vertical members?
According to the Bemm those holes in the walls will only support 60 pounds each.
Most of the pressure is downward on top on the vertical 8020. There are multiple holes used to secure these vertical extrusions. It's about as solid as you'd ever need for a bunk application. IMHO
 

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This is a a good approach. Unlike the walls, the floor is designed to carry significant loads. Just curious, is there any particular reason that you used the "double wide" 8020 for you vertical members?
I used double wide because I wanted to err on the side of over engineering. I am new to 8020 and wanted to be sure. Glad I did. Single would probably suffice though.
 

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Got it, super helpful. So it looks like you have 3 perpendicular support beams spaced evenly apart per bed rail. Each secured to the van plus nut holes via drilled holes and secured to the bed rails via 2 angled brackets each.

I may do the same. So double 8020s for the support beams and single 8020s for the rails?
Yes, doubles for the verticals (3 on each side 36" each) and doubles for cross beams (3 as well). The horizontal side rails are singles. The height is 37.5" and as you can see, my bike fits well (size L).
 

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also, the vertical beams don't attach to the sides of the van near the top (van gets wider). In fact, the highest attachment bolts are 14" from the top. So, in effect, the tops are like stilts. Because of that, I used double wide to minimize any potential wiggle or sway in the aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, doubles for the verticals (3 on each side 36" each) and doubles for cross beams (3 as well). The horizontal side rails are singles. The height is 37.5" and as you can see, my bike fits well (size L).
thanks for the answers. What fasteners did you use for the support beams? Looks like you drilled holes into the extrusions themselves. Did you use a step bit to get the opening big enough for your bolt? did you use a washer? t nut?
 

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thanks for the answers. What fasteners did you use for the support beams? Looks like you drilled holes into the extrusions themselves. Did you use a step bit to get the opening big enough for your bolt? did you use a washer? t nut?
I used 6mm and 1/4 bolts (actually used rivnuts and these two sizes fit the factory holes best ... plusnuts may be different). Yes, a step bit was used at the end to open up a little space for the head of the bolts. Used threadlocker and no washers.
 

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I used double wide because I wanted to err on the side of over engineering. I am new to 8020 and wanted to be sure. Glad I did. Single would probably suffice though.
I need atleast 38" of clearance in order to store by bikes underneath the bed in the "garage" and I was thinking I'd just secure two 8020 rails to the walls of the van. Problem is I only have 2 plusnut holes per rail to mount on the walls.

My thought today is to drill holes in the 8020 to secure directly to the plusnuts. Which means I probably have to drill two more holes in the van for the top half of the double 10 series 8020. Then have 2-3 "Ts" that support each rail that grabs atleast one plusnut below.

has anybody utilized the same plusnut holes? if so how did you secure your bed platform?

View attachment 152444
View attachment 152446
Got it, super helpful. So it looks like you have 3 perpendicular support beams spaced evenly apart per bed rail. Each secured to the van plus nut holes via drilled holes and secured to the bed rails via 2 angled brackets each.

I may do the same. So double 8020s for the support beams and single 8020s for the rails?
If you plan to build cabinets in the garage area anyway, you can use them to support the bed. We took that approach and do not even have the bed frame attached to the walls. It is basically floating on the cabinets so we can remove it for future maintenance and upgrades..
 

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I used the wall to carry to load from the bed to the floor. Its 1/2" plywood with extra 1/2" strips at the wall attachment point. Its very solid and probably overkill
152506
 

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What page so you see that? Or section ? I've been trying to find this info
I have a 2016 Bemm, It is probably in all of the Bemms. It is in a section near the end of the Bemm about fastening tool cabinets to the walls like the aftermarket stuff for work vans. I think it says 28 kilograms per mounting point.
 

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I am in the process of completing a "floating" bed frame for a EW bed. It is supported at the C and D pillars alone spanning the space completely at i believe 35". There is a hole in each of these locations that is at the same height and square to the van floor. I used that as a locater and then built off of there. I used 2 6' pieces of solid 1.5" 8020 and a collection of plates and brackets from Mcmaster. This thing is solid as a rock. you have to shim the C pillar ends out to make rails parallel as back of van is the narrow bit, but for normal non moving bed issues, not necessary.

End results this bed is sold as a rock no flex, loaded over 600 pounds on it and maybe an 1/8th!

152507


Sorry this is the best pic i have, I shoot videos all day for my instagram but not many pic pics. Thankfully i'm a lot further along than this pic from early March!

The Bed is built out of 3/4" Okume for the top and then ripped into strips for the stringers, it slides on some fancy 8020 automation slides, and folds on long heavy duty piano hinges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am in the process of completing a "floating" bed frame for a EW bed. It is supported at the C and D pillars alone spanning the space completely at i believe 35". There is a hole in each of these locations that is at the same height and square to the van floor. I used that as a locater and then built off of there. I used 2 6' pieces of solid 1.5" 8020 and a collection of plates and brackets from Mcmaster. This thing is solid as a rock. you have to shim the C pillar ends out to make rails parallel as back of van is the narrow bit, but for normal non moving bed issues, not necessary.

End results this bed is sold as a rock no flex, loaded over 600 pounds on it and maybe an 1/8th!

View attachment 152507

Sorry this is the best pic i have, I shoot videos all day for my instagram but not many pic pics. Thankfully i'm a lot further along than this pic from early March!

The Bed is built out of 3/4" Okume for the top and then ripped into strips for the stringers, it slides on some fancy 8020 automation slides, and folds on long heavy duty piano hinges.
tell me more about the parts on the van wall, did you create your own additional van holes ?
 

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tell me more about the parts on the van wall, did you create your own additional van holes ?
Yes, all the bolts you see are 8mm (except the original "centering" holes 6mm) run into nutserts that I installed. It has a total of 28 bolts holding in in, so its pretty solid! Seems scary but it is a shear load and lots of sandwich going on. all the parts are off the shelf from mcmaster and both ends are built the same way. i was going to have supports mid way but decided they weren't needed, time will tell.

As a side note in my personal MR 250 dual slider I built a simple bed at the same height using 1.5" perforated aluminum square tube from mcmaster. i just ran a piece down each side, bolted it in with {i think) 2 8mm bolts on each end, i did a center support that just T 'ed in and bolted to a spot just above wheel well. Also rock solid, and road tested.
 
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