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2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
These level sensors are about the most accurate you'll get. Drill a few holes in the tank and good-to-go. It would be cool if it could to the fuel tank as well; might be able to do it with one of the external sensor setups. I wouldn't recommend drilling into that tank.

They recently added support for RuuviTag sensors which make temp and humidity super easy.

If you're feeling techy and/or want another usage for it, you can install their VenusOS build into a Raspberry Pi and do all the external connectors with USB stuff. I went with the Cerbo GX and it's prettier; but functionally about the same. I do wonder if it would be faster on a nice RPi4b. I think the Cerbo is Beaglebone based - or the previous version was.
 

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These level sensors are about the most accurate you'll get. Drill a few holes in the tank and good-to-go. It would be cool if it could to the fuel tank as well; might be able to do it with one of the external sensor setups. I wouldn't recommend drilling into that tank.

They recently added support for RuuviTag sensors which make temp and humidity super easy.

If you're feeling techy and/or want another usage for it, you can install their VenusOS build into a Raspberry Pi and do all the external connectors with USB stuff. I went with the Cerbo GX and it's prettier; but functionally about the same. I do wonder if it would be faster on a nice RPi4b. I think the Cerbo is Beaglebone based - or the previous version was.
Thank you for the link.
I saw a review where the person went from the Pi to this display and said it was much better.
 
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2021 Cargo T350 EL High roof AWD Ecoboost
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All good! That's a Victron Cerbo GX 50 display. In the Victron world, there's a "brain" concept referred to either as "Cerbo GX" (for the current pre-packaged version) or as "Venus OS" (which can be loaded on Raspberry Pi or other ARM systems).

It's a pretty nice prepackaged setup for managing electronics, water tanks, temps and humidity, plus relays, motors and other stuff. It's not as fancy as the PicoMarine setup nor anywhere near the full marine stuff; but it's not as expensive either.

The display setup I'm using on it has much improved since that photo:
View attachment 165548
This looks great! I didn't realize you can customize the display. Can you share how you did that and maybe share the actual configuration?
Which temperature sensors are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
This looks great! I didn't realize you can customize the display. Can you share how you did that and maybe share the actual configuration?
Which temperature sensors are you using?
Amazingly, it's actually even cooler than it looks. Each box is a touch-point for functions as well - like turning the inverter on/off, setting current draw for shore power, stuff like that. It's all running from code this person wrote. Basically, you load the SetupHelper script by enabling SSH, pulling it down and running it. Then it installs his other scripts from there. This is the most recent GuiMods script. All configured from the Cerbo menu once it's loaded. Latest versions survive firmware updates, even. Pretty nice.

I've got three types of temp sensors: a Victron stock one (with the battery terminal end on it); raw TI sensors clipped onto a wire; and now RuuviTag sensors. The RuuviTags require the current beta code (2.80~xx) which is quite stable now. The RuuviTags are BT-LE with either temp-only but outdoor ready OR temp and humidity for indoor (motion not currently working). With how well they work, I'll probably dump the wired ones. I've been playing with putting them different places to see how much the internal temp varies.

The Ruuvi tags also show up in the VRM dashboard and advanced displays - including the humidity. MOAR DATA!

Current expectation for locations:
  • outside for outside temp
  • outside water tank
  • inside water tank
  • batteries (currently wired there)
  • back by the bed
  • by the windshield - varies quite a bit there
 

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Amazingly, it's actually even cooler than it looks. Each box is a touch-point for functions as well - like turning the inverter on/off, setting current draw for shore power, stuff like that. It's all running from code this person wrote. Basically, you load the SetupHelper script by enabling SSH, pulling it down and running it. Then it installs his other scripts from there. This is the most recent GuiMods script. All configured from the Cerbo menu once it's loaded. Latest versions survive firmware updates, even. Pretty nice.

I've got three types of temp sensors: a Victron stock one (with the battery terminal end on it); raw TI sensors clipped onto a wire; and now RuuviTag sensors. The RuuviTags require the current beta code (2.80~xx) which is quite stable now. The RuuviTags are BT-LE with either temp-only but outdoor ready OR temp and humidity for indoor (motion not currently working). With how well they work, I'll probably dump the wired ones. I've been playing with putting them different places to see how much the internal temp varies.

The Ruuvi tags also show up in the VRM dashboard and advanced displays - including the humidity. MOAR DATA!

Current expectation for locations:
  • outside for outside temp
  • outside water tank
  • inside water tank
  • batteries (currently wired there)
  • back by the bed
  • by the windshield - varies quite a bit there
Amazing, thank you!
 

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Initial install was just the truck-side power. We used it for a couple short trips. CCP2 2/0 cable to 150A circuit breaker (was 120A in this photo); CCP1 1/0 (or #2?) to 50A circuit breaker; 4/0 ground bar to B-pillar D-ring hole. Then from 150A breaker back to 2.2kW inverter with #2. In this photo, we were using the inverter as our sole AC and CCP1 / 50A as our "house" 12V setup - hence the fuse block where it is. As in the above photo, the fuse block moved later to the back with primary feed off house batteries and secondary (through A/B switch) to this 50A / CCP1 source.
View attachment 159637

Truck-side electrical - charges house batteries and is backup for 120VAC and 12VDC:
* Van has dual-alternators - plenty of power at idle for ~2kW output​
* Van has dual batteries - solid backup that we can (and did) operate from​
* 2.2kW Inverter connected to CCP2 via 150A circuit breaker​
* CCP1 feeds backup 12V via 50A circuit breaker (A/B switch for 12V house fuse panel)​

Alternator Charging:
CCP1 goes to 50A circuit breaker, then to the A/B 12V switch (see below)​
CCP2 goes to 150A circuit breaker, then to Giandel 2.2kW inverter​
Giandel inverter goes to a wall-outlet that has a short plug directly to the 15A input​
I like the nicely spaced-out studs on your negative ground bus bar. What size in AMPs is the bus bar and what size are the studs? Can you share a link for it?

Thank you
 

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I like the nicely spaced-out studs on your negative ground bus bar. What size in AMPs is the bus bar and what size are the studs? Can you share a link for it?

Thank you
Yea. I think that one has already been asked and not answered. I guess @gregoryx is either holding that trade secret close to the vest or he's just slacking off. (Unless of course I missed his response). o_O
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Yea. I think that one has already been asked and not answered. I guess @gregoryx is either holding that trade secret close to the vest or he's just slacking off. (Unless of course I missed his response). o_O
Shame on me if I missed that question - or didn't provide the link in the first place. Took me a minute to figure out which bar you were referencing. I'm assuming it's this one from our truck-side power panel. 250A 5/16" studs. The ground-side buss-bar on the 24V side is buried and I don't think there's a photo of it... 😏

Next question! 😄
 

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Shame on me if I missed that question - or didn't provide the link in the first place. Took me a minute to figure out which bar you were referencing. I'm assuming it's this one from our truck-side power panel. 250A 5/16" studs. The ground-side buss-bar on the 24V side is buried and I don't think there's a photo of it... 😏

Next question! 😄
The bus bar you linked is "Currently Unavailable" - F-ing hilareous. I got what I deserved. Even funnier is I was actually referring the fuse block in the attachment. But I see @Jacek was asking about the bus bar you just linked. OOPS! o_O 🤦‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Fuse block? Hm. I have this one as our 24VDC bar. And this fuse block was the old one we used (sitting in my garage - free if you want it). It has been replaced with this smaller fuse block (chosen for size and layout plus the lighted "bad fuse" function) and this relay / fuse block (chosen to get the relay switch setup and nice to have lighted "bad fuse" functions and a good layout).

Here's how that 12VDC setup looked previously:
White Light Red Electrical wiring Electronic component


and here's how it looks now:
Electrical wiring Electricity Cable Gas Computer hardware


and here's how it actually looks with the panel on it. ;)
Bumper Automotive exterior Vehicle door Gas Luggage and bags
 

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The bus bar you linked is "Currently Unavailable" - F-ing hilareous. I got what I deserved. Even funnier is I was actually referring the fuse block in the attachment. But I see @Jacek was asking about the bus bar you just linked. OOPS! o_O 🤦‍♂️
I used a couple of 150 amp Blue Sea # 2307 bus bars that have 1/4" studs:

Common 150A BusBar - Four 1/4"-20 Studs with Cover - Blue Sea Systems

Picture shown in third picture in top row of pictures:

House 12 V DC | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)
 

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2021 R2X high roof long carbonized gray - TURBOCHARGED!
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Those light up fuses are available at your local auto parts store. I've replaced about every fuse ever with a Littlefuse Smart Glow. I loathe tracing some issue down, only to find out it's a blown fuse.

Anyone want a fist full of unused regular fuses?



(chosen for size and layout plus the lighted "bad fuse" function) and this relay / fuse block (chosen to get the relay switch setup and nice to have lighted "bad fuse" functions and a good layout).
 

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Fuse block? Hm. I have this one as our 24VDC bar. And this fuse block was the old one we used (sitting in my garage - free if you want it). It has been replaced with this smaller fuse block (chosen for size and layout plus the lighted "bad fuse" function) and this relay / fuse block (chosen to get the relay switch setup and nice to have lighted "bad fuse" functions and a good layout).

Here's how that 12VDC setup looked previously:
View attachment 166374

and here's how it looks now:
View attachment 166375

and here's how it actually looks with the panel on it. ;)
View attachment 166376
I see heat pads for water and batteries. Which pads are you using? I know they do not cost much and have thought about adding them to my build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
I see heat pads for water and batteries. Which pads are you using? I know they do not cost much and have thought about adding them to my build.
The Facon ones. All different sizes. Seem to work so far. I've done a couple test nights where I left the heater off at 20 below freezing and it kept the batteries warm enough and the inside tank didn't freeze. I haven't hooked up the one on outside yet; I want to get the temp sensor set up there first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
OMAC Wheel Well Liners finally installed. Had them for months now. Took a couple hours to install. Some trimming / cutting and a bit of pain on the fingers getting them to fit right. But they came out fine.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire

Tire Automotive tire Tread Jaw Automotive design


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Hood Synthetic rubber
 

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Amazingly, it's actually even cooler than it looks. Each box is a touch-point for functions as well - like turning the inverter on/off, setting current draw for shore power, stuff like that. It's all running from code this person wrote. Basically, you load the SetupHelper script by enabling SSH, pulling it down and running it. Then it installs his other scripts from there. This is the most recent GuiMods script. All configured from the Cerbo menu once it's loaded. Latest versions survive firmware updates, even. Pretty nice.

I've got three types of temp sensors: a Victron stock one (with the battery terminal end on it); raw TI sensors clipped onto a wire; and now RuuviTag sensors. The RuuviTags require the current beta code (2.80~xx) which is quite stable now. The RuuviTags are BT-LE with either temp-only but outdoor ready OR temp and humidity for indoor (motion not currently working). With how well they work, I'll probably dump the wired ones. I've been playing with putting them different places to see how much the internal temp varies.

The Ruuvi tags also show up in the VRM dashboard and advanced displays - including the humidity. MOAR DATA!

Current expectation for locations:
  • outside for outside temp
  • outside water tank
  • inside water tank
  • batteries (currently wired there)
  • back by the bed
  • by the windshield - varies quite a bit there
Very cool! I did not know you could mod VenosOS like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 · (Edited)
The SAUNTUR Ceiling install:

Didn't think much of this originally... but have realized since that it is at least a /little/ different than others, so I'll hit the "how we did it" here. (Especially after I barfed exactly what /should/ have been here on @eranrund's thread. 😄 )

The ceiling isn't completely installed as of this post. But the method is 100% complete and we're pleased with it. Just haven't taken the time to pull down all the cabinets and finish the work on the driver's side or passenger side front.

The material we used for the ceiling is 1/4" melamine-coated MDF. This is a page of the type of stuff we used from a local shop. We're using finished birch of similar stuff for the side panels.

We have three cabinets installed on each side which are removeable with a few bolts each. That removability and flexibility of size and location is part of the ceiling design, so I'll touch on those in this post as well. As noted below, our ceiling install method extends down the first foot or so of each side - this is an important part of the approach in how it holds the ceiling up as well as how we addressed the un-square-ness of the ceiling versus walls.

Here's the ceiling from the rear (older photos without all cabinets in). Lights and center screws all nice and neatly spaced and centered and all that. In hindsight, might have been better to move the lights so that the open cabinet doors don't cover them when opened. 🤦‍♀️
White Clock Ceiling Snapshot Air travel


Here's an example of the rear setup
Shade Automotive exterior Composite material Gas Fixture


This is what the top and sides looked like without the 30mm extrusions were bolted in. At this point, the rails had been bolted on (to confirm that they worked) then removed because they have to be loose to get the ceiling panel to slot in correctly. As shown, those 1/2" ply segments are bolted into rivnuts at each roof cross-beam. You can see the 1" polyiso is held up in place by the plywood. Because it's bowed, there's tension. Thankfully, it has not been noisy.
Line Gas Automotive exterior Font Ceiling



Here you can see the rear-most panel inserted into the slot in the extrusion. In this photo, all the 90 brackets shown above are still loose - just snugged up enough to hold the panel in place. When they're tightened, the panel pulls into the slots really tight. It took some trial-and-error to get the width right.

Here you can also see that there's a layer of Thinsulate right above the ceiling panel. The ceiling panels are 1/4" MDF with white melamine coating. This means a rigid-enough panel (while still having a little flex) and a more durable white finish than if we painted something ourselves. You can see here the holes drilled for the puck lights, as well as #16 speaker-wire pairs dropped down for the lights - the hot line on the right, then a connector between two lights at each pair.. Not clear is the holes drilled for the screws that would hold the panels up at each roof-cross-member point.

Each cross-member has rivnuts in the center to which a piece of 1x2 pine is bolted in. Visible in the below photo as the small piece of wood above the end of the panel and above the Thinsulate. Those 1x2 boards serve to make a flat base at that width AND to allow us to use wood-screws to pull the panel up into place little-by-little by starting with 3" screws, pulling each point up tighter, then eventually swapping those 3" screws for 1.5" screws - which were too short to reach initially, but easily swapped one at a time once snugged up. The screws can go /through/ the 1x2s because we targeted them right where the steel beams have openings (see the above photo). The Thinsulate creates a lot of pressure on the panels so nothing makes noise once tightened up. And yet it can all be disassembled and removed (and reinstalled) if necessary since there's no glue or anything like that.
Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Gas Ceiling Hat



The finished center panels shown below with lights in place as well. Reminds me that I need to replace those screws and washers with white ones. Getting from the above to this was a 2-person job of holding the panels in place while tightening up all the screws and bolts little-by-little until it is all so snug it doesn't move. It looks and feels like it's all glued in place. It's that solid. This photo is before any cabinets.
Window Fixture Motor vehicle Vehicle Mode of transport


In this one, there's no change to the ceiling; but these two cabinets have been installed - with no doors and we haven't dealt with the ceiling side panels or the upper wall panels. At two points, the ceiling has 1/2" x ~3" plywood cross-members to cover the seams between panels. Came out good enough that we'll probably leave them as-is.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design Bumper



I'll go ahead and cover the front panel. I'm pretty happy with how it came out; though it will probably have to be re-cut one more time since I'm considering modifying the blobs. Basically, I cut multiple versions until it got good enough to use. Here's the second pass. The first one was really straight lines. This one started to have some curves.
Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Gas Tints and shades


By the fourth cut, I did it with the white material. You can see the two holes that go into a 1x2 similarly mounted to the cross-member at the back of the cab.
Table Rectangle Wood Road surface Flooring


Came out well - still need to figure out the blobs, though.
Hood Wood Motor vehicle Gas Vehicle



Looking the other direction, you can see the finish came out pretty well (blobs aside). You can see in this photo our first attempt at the upper-wall panel on the right side. Next post will address those (only 10 photos per post).
Motor vehicle Automotive design Window Room Ceiling
 
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