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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone reroute their harness to within the walls on a MR '22? I found the opening between back corners and rear only thumb size. Even if the harness will fit, which I think it will but probably not within a wire loom, I'm afraid of the harness getting cut into eventually. I want to relocate the harness without cutting wires. Anyone accomplish this?
 

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No issues moving the loom up the driver side wall a few inches in a high roof 2015. I discarded the Ford wireway and replaced it with a Panduit 1 1/2" square wireway. Needed to move it up the wall so it was inside the upper cabinet.

The wire loom going down the back corner to the taillight does not allow wall loom to be moved up. Had to do a bit of rerouting down at the bottom so I could move wall loom up the wall.

Wire Duct | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)
 

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One out of every four people who try it have engines that will not start, It is probably unwise but that does not stop many people.
Cutting and splicing the wiring and then burying it in the wall is madness. You will cry and cry if it ever gives your problems. And I am an electrical guy, have proper crimpers and plenty of experience wiring boats and I still wouldn't want to do this.
 
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You can do a 95% reroute by only disconnecting and reconnecting connectors. No splicing/cuts etc required, minimal risk compared to many other jobs during the build. The magnitude of need depends a lot on the plans for the conversion. For us it made sense. I think it took about a day, which isn't much in a 6 month conversion.
 

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2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
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Anyone reroute their harness to within the walls on a MR '22? I found the opening between back corners and rear only thumb size. Even if the harness will fit, which I think it will but probably not within a wire loom, I'm afraid of the harness getting cut into eventually. I want to relocate the harness without cutting wires. Anyone accomplish this?
There was one post (maybe a YouTube?) claiming they didn't cut it... but they did cut a few things - just not the whole loom. I was interested at first... but no cutting is one thing... and "just a little cutting" is another.

Add this to the person who had a dead van due to a wire that was damaged during their build-out - good luck finding that a year from now - and IIRC it was a pain getting a dealer tech to figure it out. And clearly not warranty. There's a couple wires in that bundle that will full-on STOP the vehicle from functioning for some silly reason. Not worth messing with nor hiding beyond accessibility IMNSHO.

@natecostello posted while I was typing: that sounds about right - /almost/ all of it can be done without cutting. But, as @orton says, it's not terribly difficult to move it up the wall a bit and hide it behind something.
 

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One note is that it's a bit different in a Medium Roof, FWIW. The wiring is already pretty much right up by the roof beams (tho still "outside" the wall framing).

Here are a couple pics just for reference. In the first one, the wiring is behind the black Ford "chase" right up under the roof beams.

In the second it's not in the chase, which shows the sheet metal situation a bit better.

For most layouts, probably not as "in the way" as on a high roof where it's further below the roof beams so guessing not so many MR people re-route it.

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VIN Received. R2X. 2023 HR, 148 long, Cargo AWD. Windows all around
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Anyone reroute their harness to within the walls on a MR '22? I found the opening between back corners and rear only thumb size. Even if the harness will fit, which I think it will but probably not within a wire loom, I'm afraid of the harness getting cut into eventually. I want to relocate the harness without cutting wires. Anyone accomplish this?
You tube has some good videos on this. One I recall is Richbuilt.
 

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Let see, The last guy through away part of the harness and then found out he still needed it. The guy before him put a screw throught the can-bus wires and the engine would not start, The can-bus runs to the backup camera module. The guy before him plugged the harness back in wrong and various vehicle accessories did not work. It took the last two guys quite awhile top figure out what they did wrong.
And then there were about 50 other people who got it right on their first try, And some of those cut and spliced their harnesses instead of unplugging them.
We get about a half dozen people a year that messed up their harnesses somehow. And then there is the dealer, Some dealers will not make waranteed repairs without full access to the harness. Somebody was just complaining about that a while back.
Mine is buried in a wall I built out of cedar planks but the way I built it I can remove the top two planks and have full access to the harness.
 

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2021 W2X High Roof Cargo T350, 148", EcoB, AWD, Avalanche Grey
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I had planned to move mine. Starting reading here and watching videos. Held off addressing the factory harness and ran my new rough wiring, mostly duplex, thru various paths in the walls. What became clear to me was the vast number of razor sharp spot weld arcs and panel edge seams that exist in the wall spaces. I doubled up looms, wrapped excess tape, zip tied and put guards on edges on my wiring. After that, I decided the factory wire chase and harness could sit right where it was and I'd work around it. That became the build theme. If Ford put it in my way, I'd just work around it.

Good luck and watch out for those spot weld gremlins!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You tube has some good videos on this. One I recall is Richbuilt.
His is a '20 or '21 high roof which doesn't have the thumb size opening in rear corner like my '22 MR. I decided to just remove the chase, encase the harness in wire loom for extra protection. I may be able to at least move the harness across the rear to inside the wall (except for the driver rear corner) but have to check that all connectors will fit through available openings. Not sure it will be worth the time. I have no intentions of cutting wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had planned to move mine. Starting reading here and watching videos. Held off and ran rough wiring, mostly duplex, thru various paths in the walls. What became clear to me was the vast number of razor sharp spot weld arcs and panel edge seams that exist in the wall spaces. I doubled up looms, wrapped excess tape, zip tied and put guards on edges. Then I decided the factory wire chase and harness could sit right where it was and I'd work around it. That became the build theme. If Ford put it in my way, I'd just work around it.

Good luck and watch out for those spot weld gremlins!
Oh yes, I've cut my fingers several times on those sharp edges. After screwing around for several hours trying to figure out what will work I decided to do just as you have. Hadn't considered doubling the looms but I think it's a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cutting and splicing the wiring and then burying it in the wall is madness. You will cry and cry if it ever gives your problems. And I am an electrical guy, have proper crimpers and plenty of experience wiring boats and I still wouldn't want to do this.
Had no intentions of cutting/splicing wires!
 

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Oh yes, I've cut my fingers several times on those sharp edges. After screwing around for several hours trying to figure out what will work I decided to do just as you have. Hadn't considered doubling the looms but I think it's a good idea.
I wasn't quite clear above. The effort in double looming and tape was new wiring I that ran in the wall spaces. I left the factory wiring harness, loom and cover alone.
 
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