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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Got a Renogy DCC50S installed in the van yesterday. It sure was good to see 50 amps flowing into my 1200wH lithium house battery. Luckily, I have a dumb alternator so it fired right up and worked. The van has no problem putting out the 50 amps at idle. After about 20 minutes I felt the alternator and it was indeed pretty hot. I may see about getting the SEIC function working just to provide more cooling for the alt. Or perhaps I will look for a 250 amp alt from a wreck or maybe a re-manufactured one. I am assuming I have the 150 amp alt as my transit is a base model. Anybody out there have any long term experience pulling 50 amps or so from a 150 amp alt at idle?

I do have to say that it was easy to install and fired right up and works as advertised. Now I'll have to get some hours on it and see how it does.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ken, very true. Back longer ago than I would like to admit, when I first moved off grid, there wasn't a lot of 12V high amp chargers available. At least at price point I could afford. So I built a few alternator chargers for my off grid battery bank and indeed, they get hot. I ended up buying high output alts and modifying them for better airflow as I burned up a few. But I was working them way harder than 50 amps. I'm just curious if others have gotten away with pulling 50 amps at idle over the long term. I probably won't do it for more than 1/2 at a stretch.

Nice to have some on board charging for the house bank!
 

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Hi All,

Got a Renogy DCC50S installed in the van yesterday. It sure was good to see 50 amps flowing into my 1200wH lithium house battery. Luckily, I have a dumb alternator so it fired right up and worked. The van has no problem putting out the 50 amps at idle. After about 20 minutes I felt the alternator and it was indeed pretty hot. I may see about getting the SEIC function working just to provide more cooling for the alt. Or perhaps I will look for a 250 amp alt from a wreck or maybe a re-manufactured one. I am assuming I have the 150 amp alt as my transit is a base model. Anybody out there have any long term experience pulling 50 amps or so from a 150 amp alt at idle?

I do have to say that it was easy to install and fired right up and works as advertised. Now I'll have to get some hours on it and see how it does.
did you connect directly to the battery or to the CCP?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Directly to the battery. The CCP is a joke. I wouldn't have been able to put a proper lug. I put a breaker on the side of the seat as others have done. I used nylon bolts to mount the breaker as I didn;t like having a grounded bolt so close to a hot terminal.
 

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Directly to the battery. The CCP is a joke. I wouldn't have been able to put a proper lug. I put a breaker on the side of the seat as others have done. I used nylon bolts to mount the breaker as I didn;t like having a grounded bolt so close to a hot terminal.
Did you take pics of the battery connection?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No, and I would have to pull it all apart. I had to cut a hole in the side of the seat and the battery box inside. I used a grommet in the seat hole and put the wire in a loom. I cut custom little pieces of loom to cover the lugs and breaker terminals.
 

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Directly to the battery. The CCP is a joke. I wouldn't have been able to put a proper lug.
Agreed 150% I connected the ground to the spare lug on the battery, and added an MRBF onto one of the spare studs inside the main junction box just behind the battery. From there the wire snakes down and under the seat pedestal. It was all very tight but it's a pretty clean installation.

One of the first things I did after purchasing my van was install the two extra CCP's, as mine only had the one. That was over a year ago and I haven't touched them since. What a waste.

Now, in all fairness the 2/0 wire I'm running to the other side of my partition might be a little overkill. But I'm ok with that. I hate running wires and I was only doing that part ONCE.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, the CCP is ridiculous. I do have an Anderson connector hooked up to mine as I used it for a couple of trips to power radios and whatnot and I left it there just in case I want to use it for something. The fusebox is just as silly. Nothing like needing tools to get at a fuse. If these vehicles were going to last for decades those would cause problems.

2/0 eh? Jeez, that is some fat wire. I use 4/0 for my inverter to battery bank connection at home, but then I may be welding while doing some laundry. :)
 

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Directly to the battery. The CCP is a joke. I wouldn't have been able to put a proper lug. I put a breaker on the side of the seat as others have done. I used nylon bolts to mount the breaker as I didn;t like having a grounded bolt so close to a hot terminal.
do you have a picture of the breaker installation?

Thanks
 

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Directly to the battery. The CCP is a joke. I wouldn't have been able to put a proper lug. I put a breaker on the side of the seat as others have done. I used nylon bolts to mount the breaker as I didn;t like having a grounded bolt so close to a hot terminal.
Just so i have clarification.

You ran a cable from the positive terminal of the Starter battery to a 75A CB (4 AWG)

75A CB to the DCC50S (4AWG)

DCC50S to Busbar then down the line to your House batteries?
 

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Later model Transits (according to the Ford BEMM) don't like attachments to the negative battery terminal as it can interfere with the battery management system of the vehicle. And, at least in the case of the 2020, Ford recommends that all loads connected directly to the vehicle battery positive be controlled by a relay that can abide by load shedding.

Just passing on info.. I have no emotional attachment to how folks attach loads to their own vehicles.
 

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Later model Transits (according to the Ford BEMM) don't like attachments to the negative battery terminal as it can interfere with the battery management system of the vehicle.
Actually the Battery Management system is hooked to one of the Positive battery terminals.
You can do anything you want with the Negative terminal as long as the connection it tightened to Specs.
 

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Yeah I am tired of playing games but making blanket recommendations is wrong.

(There is a Bemm for each model year)
Which is why I specified the 2020 BEMM in my initial response rather than making a "blanket statement". Keep digging.

Or, share a link to a 2019 or 2018 BEMM where it says the BMS is not looking at current/voltage on the negative vehicle battery connection to determine state of charge, etc. That would be useful and specific.
 
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